Dry Beer Enzyme

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Mantis

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Like MHB said, dry enzymes can take a long time to finish up.

The usual answer is to make sure you have a stable sg reading over 2-3 days, then bottle.

With a dry enzyme brew, leave it for at least 10 -15 days in the fermenter and double check the sg is stable over 3-5 days.

Don't trust the airlock, it may bubble slowly for a month. It will also bubble with changes in temperature and changes in atmospheric pressure. Use your hydrometer.
Just did another SG and its down to 1004 from 1008 two days ago. Airlock hasnt bubbled for days. Will keep checking as you say until its stable. But, I have to go into hossy for an operation next tues, so if it hasnt stabilised by monday I guess just leaving it for another 8 days till I am able to bottle would be ok, yes?

Oh, and BTW, I tasted the sample and I know what you guys mean by a super dry hops only taste, cause thats what it is. I am learning so much in here, so thanks heaps
 

pint of lager

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That will be fine for another 8 days. So long as it isn't sitting on a heat mat. Leaving it for any time with the yeast and trub on a mat would not be a good idea.

All the best for your hospital stay.
 

Mantis

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That will be fine for another 8 days. So long as it isn't sitting on a heat mat. Leaving it for any time with the yeast and trub on a mat would not be a good idea.

All the best for your hospital stay.

Thanks.
I will move the fermenter to a spare room that is cooler than the rest of the house.
Will have to go buy another fermenter now as I want to put down another batch before I go in. This will be an all malt brew with nooooooo enzymes :)
 

under

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Mantis how did it work out.

I put down a brew yesterday with a dry enzyme to test it out.

Used -

1 x Can Coopers Heritage Lager
1kg Superbrew (think its 500g LME, 250g DEX, 250G malto?? maybe..)
1 x Packet cluster hops (steeped 10min then chucked in)
1x Packet Dry enzyme
1x Coopers Lager yeast


Since reading, I wish I had left the enzyme out.


Im thinking if I were to prime with lme or something like that, woul it make it a better beer.

Or is there someway at the end of fermenting I can do to make it better.
 

under

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Hmmm.

4 days @ 22c and its at 1007. Dosent seem right. Tastes ok out of the hydrometer. Nice hops zing and a dry finish.

Sound weird to anyone???
 

kyleg

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Just read through this thread on my iPhone. Eyes a bit sore. I have a brew of American stout that's been sitting in my secondary for about 2 months now, from memory OG was about 1058, with a target FG of about 1014, how ever the brew only fermented out to 1021.

I was wondering if this dry enzyme could be used to reach my target FG of around 1.014...?

Thanks
 

joshuahardie

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In my experience with the Dry Enzyme, you simply won't be able to stop it at a desired FG.
I would expect it would drop down below 1008, which you may not want.

How does your stout taste. If it is not too sweet, don't stuff around with it.

If it is far too sweet for your liking, and you don't want to blend with a drier beer, sure give it a go, because the only other option is turfing the beer.
 

kyleg

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Yeah that is what I'm thinking, it's sitting in the secondary at the moment and I've contemplated dumping it to spare up the carboy. So I think I'll try this and if it doesn't work lesson learnt, no real harm done.
 

Termite

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Hi guys
I know this is an old post but I use a dry enzyme in 99% of my brews and get no bad flavours
I brew with extract and only omit the enzyme if I add a grain infusion pack
I also dont boil my hops any longer then 30 seconds
I bring hops extract and 2 litres of water to the boil and let cool then strain into the fermenter
Then top up with filtered water and add the enzyme the then yeast starter
And bingo never had a failure
 

yankinoz

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Funny thing: Cluster hops, like me, are of American origin and very old. The beers I drank in my youth mostly used them for bittering, but only to 10-15 IBUs, sometimes for late additions. Used as above, lightly, I suppose they're useful for nostalgia brews.
 
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