DIY Kegmenter

[Boxcar]

IMO, currently the best TC adapter for fermenting in a commercial keg is from Brewhardware. https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SankeFermenterKit_pressure

No cutting/mods to the keg - keep a nice sanitary vessel/connection. This adapter has less parts than rolling your own because they've custom-machined the main block to have all the necessary & different threads for the dip-tube compression fitting, ball lock post & accessory port (spunding valve, etc.) Includes thermowell in either of two lengths for full-height or squat kegs like 30L.

 

[sp0rk]

You can make the same thing with a few bits and pieces, no cutting needed
Brewhardware also don't sell this anymore
The below adapter, a seal/clamp, 1/2" tee, racking cane, a couple of compression fittings, some reducers and ball lock posts will do it
Plus then add in the spunding valve that is in the current BB and you're set
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/gr...049.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.1e093640JRInSd

 

[Boxcar]

Brewhardware also don't sell this anymore

It's their current design, introduced summer 2017 - they sell out quickly, though they're regularly back in stock. You can make "something" similar with other parts, but you can't make the "same thing" unless you also custom-mill your own fittings - that's what makes this iteration the best around.

BTW, even a standard compression fitting needs to be bored out to allow passing through a tube. At the price Brewhardware has these, it's just not worth the time/effort to roll your own, especially when the parts costs alone will only save a few $.

 

[sp0rk]

I'm sure I saw Bobby say somewhere they're not making them for now.
Shipping is cost preventative, IMHO
Just checking with the other Sanke Conversion kit, it's $48 AUD shipping
I'm going to guess you're in America, aren't you?

For people who like making chips in the workshop, half the fun of brewing is making gear like this yourself.
With this stuff only being available in the last few years, most of us have had to fabricobble things for a while now

 

[DaveGillespie]

I'm UK based so postage and customs charges on that would likely be prohibitive as well.

Part of the appeal of the Tee plus corny gas dip tube approach would be that I could attach a Caskwidge or similar floating pickup so dry hops could be added in primary. 2" tri clamp to 1/2" BSP seem to be as rare as hens teeth.

 

[sp0rk]

tri clamp to 1/2" BSP seem to be as rare as hens teeth.

The one I posted above is the only one I can find (other than a $50 one from the states) after a few weeks of searching using all kinds of search terms
I have been tempted to buy some 2" triclamp caps, drill them off centre, braze in a 1/2" threaded pipe cut in half and then add a thermowell as well
Hmmm, could be a handy little side business if people would buy them...

 

[DaveGillespie]

Here's what I'm thinking, simple and very similar to the OP.

2" TC to 1/2" Male NPT https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32620861308.html
4 way 1/2" Female NPT https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32852068219.html
1/2" to 1/4" NPT bushes x3 https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32861709517.html
Corny posts on 1/4" bulkhead https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32842315956.html

Bottom of the 4 way screws onto TC fitting. Left side gets reducing bush and Gas bulkhead post. Right hand side gets a reducing bush and an old 1/4" NPT adjustable PRV I removed from a KK style Spunding valve. Top gets the liquid post bulkhead with a corny gas dip tube onto which goes some 6mm ID/10mm OD Silicone tubing that can then either act as a standard diptube or can be rigged with a float.

Attached spunding valve will be set to 30psi and left there, finer pressure adjustments will be made with a Spunding valve on the gas post. I'm using the old valve because it's on hand and because 30psi ring pull valves don't seem to be as cheaply available as 120psi ones. I'd prefer a proper 30psi ring pull type if anyone has seen one on Ali.

The only possible downfall is - will the liquid bulkhead accept a dip tube between the post and bulkhead assembly?

 

[sp0rk]

I feel that 2 spunding valves is just unnecessary
a tee fitting and ball lock to a decent spunding valve is all you need
It's going to blow before the 30psi one will (because I doubt you'll be fermenting over 15psi)

 

[DaveGillespie]

The second 30psi valve is really for final carbonation. I'd be starting fermentation at lower PSI but allowing to reach ~30 for final carbonation. This way I can take my ball lock spunding valve away after my initial lower pressure period and be using that on a Corny potentially.

 

[peterlonz]

Using an angle grinder, even with well worn disc, to cut what needs to be a precision hole does not sound straightforward to me. However clearly it's doable.
I wonder what the effect on max pressure capacity is with the newly cut oval hole, anyone bothered to do a test at say 100 PSI?
I think you'd need arms like a gorilla to manhandle such a keg & that counts me out.

 

[sp0rk]

Using an angle grinder, even with well worn disc, to cut what needs to be a precision hole does not sound straightforward to me. However clearly it's doable.
I wonder what the effect on max pressure capacity is with the newly cut oval hole, anyone bothered to do a test at say 100 PSI?
I think you'd need arms like a gorilla to manhandle such a keg & that counts me out.

You basically VERY lightly score around your marked out hole, working deeper and deeper very slowly until you've worked your way through

 

[Lionman]

I don't think the hole needs to be that precise. The seals on corny lids are pretty fat and they sit a fair way out from the edge of the opening so there is a fair bit of tolerance there to play with.

I would recommend erring on the smaller side when first cutting the hole. Its easy to grind a little more, it a bit harder to ungrind.

Make a cardboard template that fits the lid perfectly and use that as a stencil on the keg. Trace around it was a sharpie and cut that out. You can cut quickly and bit more roughly a couple of mm in from the markings and then grind your way to the pen marks with more precision.

 

[Neil Harvey]

Anyone tried this with the reducer upside down on a 2" keg outlet?
https://www.kegland.com.au/4inch-to-2inch-concentric-reducer-for-kegmenter-still-attachment.html
With this on top.
https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html
Just not sure if the ball on the dip tube will go through the 2" keg opening.

 

[Maheel]

Anyone tried this with the reducer upside down on a 2" keg outlet?
https://www.kegland.com.au/4inch-to-2inch-concentric-reducer-for-kegmenter-still-attachment.html
With this on top.
https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html
Just not sure if the ball on the dip tube will go through the 2" keg opening.

like you said the ball may no fit.

 

[Maheel]

you can just cut the spear back on a 50 L so you don't pick up the dry hop.

I mostly pressure ferment in 23l kegs now but i have a 50L A type where i have cut the spear and just use a keg coupler modded to ball lock and a PRV on it
if you can get a cheap coupler it works well.

I rinse out and then put in boiling water and pbw, cleans out the crud
if really dry crud i soak 1st and blast with a "spray wand" i made from a bent bit of 1/4 copper pipe

 

[DaveGillespie]

Question for folks using triclamp on Sanke - did you trim the ridge off the keg side of your gasket or not?

If not, have you had any seal problems?

 

[ibegood]

have just automatically cut the rib off the gasket on one side, not tried without.

 

[sp0rk]

I had sealing problems with my "water purifier" before I shaved one side off the seal
Though mine were EPDM, so I cut the rib off, then got it good and smooth working up through sandpaper grits to 2000 grit
Or you can buy one pre made https://www.5stardistilling.com.au/product/8-epdm-tri-clamp-seal-copy/