Great, thanks.Seals rather well, the feet put a bit of extra pressure that helps it conform.
Great, thanks.Seals rather well, the feet put a bit of extra pressure that helps it conform.
Unfortunately the file is not so scribbly.....
Pirate & Dae Tripper, you don't have any issues with the lid sealing? I'm keen to do the same thing as I have a couple of kegs ready and waiting for repurposing but was worried that the lid wouldn't seal correctly as is.
Haha i have no idea how that happened as i only loaded the one file!
Nil issues with the lid sealing
Beauty mate. Thanks for that. I should be able to use this for a ball valve , turn keg upside down and do the corny mods on top( the bottom of the keg) instant conical fv. Sweet. So over trying to clean the A type kegs I use as fv's. Cheers. Mick.you want the 64mm OD ferrule (often called 2")
they fit nicely on A type kegs with a shaved silicone seal
(shave off the ridge on one side of the seal)
64mm to 1/2 bsp is a little tricky to find
punkin @ stilldragon have some
he also has a 64mm to a 1" bsp
Hey where did u get the weld less fittings from ? Ive been searching online all day. Cheers. Mick.i have 2 50L kegs i ferment in.
1 is an A type that I cut a hole to fit a corny lid, and drilled 2 holes and added weld less ball lock fittings to. Has a floating fermentasaurus dip tube. total cost was around $50
The other is a D type that I already had a coupling for. You can get ball lock fittings that screw onto the coupling. I shortened the dip tube 20mm to minimise trub pickup. Total cost was about $20 (already had the keg and coupling)
I used the first one mostly because it's heaps easier to clean with the corny lid, and remove the lid for dry hopping. The D type one is strictly for beers with no dry hop as it's a bit of a pain to remove the spear mid ferment.
With the low angle, I can't see the point in putting a valve on the bottom of a keg, It's not going to work like a conical. I thought of putting a triclamp gate valve and then a sight glass to collect yeast, with the aid of some regular rubber malleting to encourage the yeast down, but the cost/effort type of negates the simplicity of the idea. I'd personally just cut out the keg coupling to fit the corny lid.Beauty mate. Thanks for that. I should be able to use this for a ball valve , turn keg upside down and do the corny mods on top( the bottom of the keg) instant conical fv. Sweet. So over trying to clean the A type kegs I use as fv's. Cheers. Mick.
Yea i get you. But i was thinking with a 90deg bend at 2.5" plus the valve & fittings it may just be worthy. But after getting on eBay and buying couple bits from China I realised its just too dear for the outcome. So now I'm looking for a conical ss around 50-60 litres. Everyone seems to be out of stock. I'm over fv kegs. Ill just use them for serving. Cheers.With the low angle, I can't see the point in putting a valve on the bottom of a keg, It's not going to work like a conical. I thought of putting a triclamp gate valve and then a sight glass to collect yeast, with the aid of some regular rubber malleting to encourage the yeast down, but the cost/effort type of negates the simplicity of the idea. I'd personally just cut out the keg coupling to fit the corny lid.
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/291726879...%3D705-139619-5960-0%26rvr_id%3D1407502308585Hey where did u get the weld less fittings from ? Ive been searching online all day. Cheers. Mick.
all done, i am quite happy.
Its keep the pressure since last night.
Looks good, what did you use to cut the keg lid hole?all done, i am quite happy.
Its keep the pressure since last night.
out of interest what are you doing for a beer out dip tube ?
Looks good, what did you use to cut the keg lid hole?
Thanks, seems you have a steadier hand with a jigsaw than I do (haven't tried to cut a keg but haven't had great success neatly cutting stainless).first, i drilled a lot of small holes around and then I used a jigsaw.
cheers
stefan
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