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As above, look at the Shun Elite Series, they're on their way out but much preferable over the Classics and good for lefties. The Classic ones wouldn't work.

But to be honest, at the ned of the day it's a knife, and if you've got no plan in place on how to look after it and keep it sharp then it's no better than any other knife in the long run.

Mac knifes seem to be good value for money, but they don't look as pretentious.
 
No dramas there. Knives were one of my first hobbies and went hand in hand with fishing and camping. I love a good quality blade but dont own enough and most are for fishing and hunting. My mundials service the kitchen well but dont look pretentious enough! Will check out these macs
 
Global knife set.
Very nice to use, feel great in the hand.

8447254090_acd8b921c7_c.jpg
 
I find the global knives to be too light. I like something with a little weight as it seems to balance better.
 
I have just ordered a set of Japanese whetstones to practice sharpening my crappy knives to get the hang of sharpening. No me point getting a great set of knives if I can't maintain them
Cheers
Chris
 
I use japanese ceramic stones on my chisels (for fine woodworking... not general building work). They do a good job. I would use them on the kitchen knives but that might stuff up the stone for the chisels....
 
Malted said:
I find the global knives to be too light. I like something with a little weight as it seems to balance better.
I used to know a chef who said something similar, she didn't rate Global knives at all.
I love them, they feel great to me.
 
My Japanese whetstones just turned up and I had a crack at an old chefs knife.
It not as easy as it looks on the you tube vids to maintain the correct angle. I am glad I am practicing on a crappy knife.

When I finally got it right the edge is unbelievable. I reckon I will be able to bring a couple of old favorites back from the dead.

Cheers
Chris
 
I just bought a lansky set for the kitchen knives (since I don't want to stuff up my chisel and plane stones by sharpening knives on them). It has a honing guide that maintains the angle for the stones. Seems to do a pretty reasonable job. I doubt I'll use the coarse stone much though. Its pretty aggressive. The fine and super fine look like they will do 99% of the time with the medium for really blunt ones.

lansky.jpg


I also picked up a leather strop. Now that really makes a difference.

Cheers
Dave
 
I was hunting around for something more than a whetstone for my knives, a mix of shun and wusthorf I've collected over the years (and inherited!) and a Victorinox paring knife I would not trade for the world. They are all meant to have slightly different requirements for sharpening, so I ended up with this:

http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77


. 204_M.jpg


It's easy to use (if a bit tiring to do a whole set of knives at once) and does an amazing job sharpening and honing.

I don't use the roughest bite edges on the shuns, as I'd end up with only slivers left in a few years.
 
Airgead said:
I just bought a lansky set for the kitchen knives (since I don't want to stuff up my chisel and plane stones by sharpening knives on them). It has a honing guide that maintains the angle for the stones. Seems to do a pretty reasonable job. I doubt I'll use the coarse stone much though. Its pretty aggressive. The fine and super fine look like they will do 99% of the time with the medium for really blunt ones.

lansky.jpg


I also picked up a leather strop. Now that really makes a difference.

Cheers
Dave

I have the same unit. Two accesories that are very worth while are the Diamond hone (if you didn't buy the diamond in the set) and the plastic base. It gets really hard to hold the unit in your hand, but a two finger job to hold the mushroom style base to the table.

I do remember the price of the base leaving a bad taste in my mouth for quite some time (although i thought the kit was reasonable), so if you are handy with a lathe it may be worthwhile copying it.
 
punkin said:
I have the same unit. Two accesories that are very worth while are the Diamond hone (if you didn't buy the diamond in the set) and the plastic base. It gets really hard to hold the unit in your hand, but a two finger job to hold the mushroom style base to the table.

I do remember the price of the base leaving a bad taste in my mouth for quite some time (although i thought the kit was reasonable), so if you are handy with a lathe it may be worthwhile copying it.
I'll keep my eye out for them.

What grit is the diamond hone? Most of the diamond sets I have seen are fairly coarse.

Cheers
Dave
 
A lady that I work with buys her cutlery from 2nd hand shops.
"Who wants to pay $8 for a brand new egg flip that I'll use only twice a week"
 
Airgead said:
I just bought a lansky set for the kitchen knives (since I don't want to stuff up my chisel and plane stones by sharpening knives on them). It has a honing guide that maintains the angle for the stones. Seems to do a pretty reasonable job. I doubt I'll use the coarse stone much though. Its pretty aggressive. The fine and super fine look like they will do 99% of the time with the medium for really blunt ones.



I also picked up a leather strop. Now that really makes a difference.

Cheers
Dave
I have the same set, great sharpening tools.

The real coarse one is good if you need to cut a complete new angle on a knife. If you don't need to do that you probably won't use it.
I used it on my cheap bait knife.

eta - The stand is essential.
 
my knife sharpening skills were non existent, so i bought the wicked edge sharpener, it holds the knife in a vice and you use paddles to profile/sharpen the knife, you set the angle that the paddle moves along and it maintains the same angle throughout the process when changing to finer paddles

it comes with 100 grit through to 1000 grit diamond stones

i also bought some blank paddles that you place lapping film on, another 4 stages, I do down to 3 microns

the coarse grit is handy in re-profiling a blade, but after a blade has the correct angle set, maintenance can start with the finer grit

with a bit of time, i can put a razor sharp edge on pretty much any knife, but the better quality knives holding it longer,

its also important to put the right angles on a knife to suit its purpose

eg a cleaver used to chop bone/cartilage will lose an acute edge quickly and possibly damage it

not stropping too much on some kitchen knifes is a good thing as it leaves a bit of 'tooth' on the edge which can help it grip the food, such as slicing a tomato (unless you want them paper thin)
 
I use a stone and do it the hard way.. First angle is about 20* to remove any shoulder then 35-40* on the final....I then give then a LIGHT go on the steel when needed. Most people dont steel properly and think that rubbing the knife hard makes it sharp
 
Airgead said:
I'll keep my eye out for them.

What grit is the diamond hone? Most of the diamond sets I have seen are fairly coarse.

Cheers
Dave

http://lansky.com/index.php/products/fine-diamond-hone/

600 grit it says here. they used to advertise a ruby one too, but i see they have a ceramic 1000 grit hone and a 2000 grit saphire one.
I just don't need knives that sharp and i'm not prepared to look after them that well. I think good knives are cheap and get them from the gun shop.
Eicker-solingen, Swibo and my favourite value Tramontina are $20-25 and do really good duty.
I don't worry about damaging them or losing them or chucking them in the kitchen drawer. Not like my few expensive knives that rarely get used.

knives1.jpg

This is the mount i have.

http://lansky.com/index.php/products/pedestal-mount/
 
I have a set of Furi knives. One piece, Australian made, sharpen well and can take a good amount of use. They can be expensive to buy individually but there are good options online like this place: http://www.everten.com.au/Furi-Knives.html

I also usually have an opinel no. 8 somewhere close buy for cutting up fruit or biltong on the go.
 
I think you might find furi are designed here...made over there
 
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