Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[Edak]

I can't think of a nice solution other than getting someone to roll the bottom edge. Was it a pot? When we cut our inner pots we left the bottom lip on the pot, so a cross section would look like a 'L' where the bottom of said L presses against the silicone.

 

[aamcle]

Its not a pot in the normal sense, its the centre of a ex-army tea urn.

The other end does have a lip, is much closer to perfectly round and in many ways would be the best choice for the seal.
However I would then have the force of the clamp bearing on a small area of the thin wall of the Malt Pipe I'm afraid it would collapse.

How hard do you have to screw the Malt Pipe clamp down? I might have to reinforce the rim or something or cut a slightly oversize circle of my perforated plate so that the force is spread right around the rim of the malt pipe and use the plate to clamp the malt pipe down.

ATB. aamcle

 

[real_beer]

Good Evening All. My build (I'm in the UK) is progressing slowly and steadily but I have one issue still to resolve, one that has troubled any number of ghetto builds, its the malt pipe bottom seal. I had hoped to use split silicone tube as a seal but it cuts easily and the malt pipe wall is relatively thin so I fear it would cut them tube. One idea was to split some nylon tube and run that around the bottom of the malt pipe then put the silicone tube over it so that the nylon tube spreads the downwards force of the clamp and the silicone is not cut. The ideal would be to "thicken" the bottom to the MP, the nylon tube would do that to an extent but its messy I just don't like the idea. I could make a lot of small vertical cuts in the bottom of the MP and try to bend over the resulting tabs so widening the tube wall but keeping everything even and level might be impossible. I'd really appreciate your thoughts about the best way to make the seal or thicken the MP wall. Many thanks. Aamcle

I'm using an old hot water urn for a malt pipe with one of these cut down to size http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/FYNIIQWV%20braumeister/7BRAU+RUBBER+50
You shouldn't have to tighten down too hard on it to get a good seal.

Heres what the inside profile looks like:

 

[dubbadan]

Yeah I was gonna say, can you just use more silicone? Looks like real_beer has a similar idea.

 

[aamcle]

I like the look of that seal and I know were I can get some like it!

I'll go with that if I can - thanks


Aamcle

 

[soulglo]

Thinking very seriously about putting one of these together.

Any ideas what the biggest pot size would be possible? I'm guessing it all really comes down to how much electricity you have to throw at an element to make enough heat?

 

[jwollmer]

I finished reading through the is complete post as well as the Braubushka site and have decided to build a hybred system with a jacketed kettle to provide insulation during the boil and cooling without an external chiller. To do this I am going to have a kettle custom built. This is where I am looking for some final advice.
Question 1. I remember there was a guideline on the ratio between kettle height and diameter, and I cannot find that post.
Question 2 I want to be able to brew 5 gal and 2.5 gal batches so I realize I will need 2 malt pipes. Could someone please reply with a recommendation on volumes. Since I am custom building kettle I would like to have the option to brew a range of gravity beers.

Thanks in advance.

 

[real_beer]

Hi easydoesit,

You should find everything you need in this link (it should be a pined post using a titanium railway spike in my opinion):

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-bonjuino-and-mathos-controller-30/page-14#entry1117162

The ninth link in the post titled:
Excel file for figuring out if your pot sizes will work for different SG beers.
should help answer your questions.

Custom pot eh! Have your checkbook/credit card handy & whatever you do if your married or have a partner, don't let them see your bank statement!

Cheers

edit: And download the spreadsheet on this post:
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/57924-braumeister-nextgen-build/page-36#entry934295

 

[lael]

Theoretical Pot sizes are pretty irrelevant ( could be any size as long as you get the ratio between the two ok for fluidisation of the malt pipe, covering the element and you have enough power to run the elements needed for the volume you have ) eg: braumeister have a 200L system. The key is really what price it will cost, can you lift the malt pipe (weight)? Can You get the malt pipe to seal properly, and do you have enough pumping power to fluidise the grain bed at the given head it will be at?

If you can balance those things, The sky is the limit. Eg: the Brau 200Lt system they sell has a stand bar and ratchet / pulley system to lift the malt pipe.

 

[lael]

Oh, I suspect malt pipe sealing will be easier the heavier the malt pipe is, but maybe ( hypothesising) it might not seal as evenly all the way around with a larger seal length required for much larger pot.

 

[jwollmer]

Thanks Real beer for the link, that should help a lot. I know fabrication is expensivebt I had a bit of luck, I was at a Christmas party and my nephew is also a brewer so we were discussing my plans and he thought he could pull in some favors from friends at work to build the kettle. Keeping my fingers crossed!!!

I thought for sure I read in the thread that there was a resommended height to diameter ratio for the kettle, Tall and narrow as opposed to short and fat. Does anyone remember that? Was it height should be 2x diameter? Thinking about it taller means more head on the pump, not necessarily a good thing. When I have the sizes worked out I will run it by you experts here before I have it built.

Thanks
Jim

 

[lael]

Oh, that will have to do with the heating efficiency of the pot. I don't remember, but would guess a search on heating element / element sizing would help find those posts.

 

[jwollmer]

I took a stab at the kettle and malt pipe sizing using the spreadsheet. I think I have it in the green for all but the high gravity line. My question is on the Actual Fluidisation in Malt Pipe (L/Kg) column. I know the goal is around 3.65. less and you will get stuck mash, more and you will get wort fountains. I am ranging from 2.92 - 8.

If someone could review the spreadsheet attached and give me your thoughts. I am shooting for 2.5gal and 5gal batch sizes. Also I have allowed 3.8cm between malt pipe and kettle. Is that sufficient?

​

Thanks in advance,
Jim

View attachment Jims_Braumiser_Volume_Calculations.xls

 

[Superoo]

Just a note lads,
You can now design and price up your own custom control panel facia's at our website.

Just go to the 'brew stuff' category at www.eatonlaser.com.au

cheers,
Chris

 

[aamcle]

What are your thoughts on a removable centre rod? I'm using Stainless All Thread and could easily include a "Long Nut/Threaded Socket" at the bottom.

I would gain the ability to use a good size hop basket and have the flexibility to use the unit for other things.

ATB. Aamcle

 

[lukec]

Just a photo of my sparging a ESB. Getting about 80% effiency in every brew these days

 

[Edak]

80 mash efficiency? Or total into fermenter?

 

[Edak]

Also what are the extra bolt heads for low down on the malt pipe?

 

[tateg]

Hi guys
How high up the pot are you putting the tap?

Cheers

Edit: using a 50l pot

 

[real_beer]

Hi guys How high up the pot are you putting the tap? Cheers Edit: using a 50l pot

Not putting one on mine I'm just going to use an auto siphon.