Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[aamcle]

Thanks Edak, I have some finer mesh but it is very much finer probably too fine.

Do most builds simply have the mesh flat to the edge of the support plate or shaped so that some of the mesh forms a skirt sliding down the mash tube wall?
Think of plunger coffee maker were the filter mesh is shaped so as not to let any grounds past.

Many Thanks. Aamcle

 

[Edak]

My mesh is flat to the plate, sewn together using some stainless wire, that is one strand of that stainless wire used for balconies and such...

 

[Edak]

To be more concise its marine grade balustrade wire. Cheap as chips for two metres.

 

[lael]

Your perforated plate is perfect, your mesh is probably OK but could be finer. The plate pretty much has to go right to the edges. Basically will any of it let grain past?

I cut my plate for my new larger malt pipe slightly closer inside than I would have preferred. In some parts the gap is up to 2mm I think? I was concerned about it, but have found that the husks and ikea mesh means that virtually nothing comes through.

Of course, next build I will cut it closer and file it down to fit.

The mesh and perf looks perfect!

 

[Deevotronics]

Got a 100ltr pot on the go, dual March pumps and 3 phase heating... photos soon. Tuning the PID will be the hardest part. Plan to use typical control kit from Lael, if anyone has tips on large volume PID parameters that would be appreciated.

 

[aamcle]

I'm getting together the plumbing and will be out looking for engineering shops to cut the plates for me.

I have a question about the top plate, on the original it rises and falls as the pump goes on and off (cool ) but some of the builds seem to have the top filter clamped right across the top of the malt pipe, fixed not moving.

Is there any disadvantage to having the top filter mounted right across the mouth of the malt pipe fixed and not moving?

Dose the system block more often if the top filter plate is not free to move up and down?

Any other disadvantages?

Many Thanks. Aamcle

 

[djar007]

I think it would be better to have it fixed as then you could cycle the pump if you had a stuck sparge. If the place floats then the whole grain bed would raise and lower with the plate making it more difficult to prevent channelling.

 

[aamcle]

If the filter is in effect ' on the top' of the mash tube then even with the pump off if I lift the filter to stir won't the grain get into the outer vessel?


Aamcle

 

[Edak]

No because the water level drops along with the grain. No overflow when the pump is off.

 

[zlorf]

Hi people

I'm trying to wrap my brain around lots of new ideas. This thread is really helpful.

Please can you help me out with a 2 points... I've skimmed this thread but my head is spinning :blink:

1) I would love to have two differently sized vessels (thinking <20L and a 50L) - would it be possible to swap out a single matho-style control box between to the two vessels? I don't anticipate wanting to do this too often, but it would be great to have the ability to do so. Would I have to tweak any code during the swap?

2) I'm struggling to understand the concept of the "bonjuino" gizmo vs the arduino... does one complement the other or is the bonjuino a replacement?

Thanks in advance

 

[MastersBrewery]

why two? if you've only got 1 controller you can use one at a time, to do differing size batches just use different size malt pipes lael does this not sure is linked here. and I'm sure he could give you some tips

 

[djar007]

If your going to make two then you may as well just make another controller. Thats not the expensive part of the build. The common way to go is buy your own arduino from any electronics store. They are pretty cheap to buy already assembled, leaving you with the task of assembling the shield and then putting it all in a box and wiring up the element and pump and plumbing up the pots. If you want to learn how it all came about with the controller then read the arduino development thread and you can see how all the members worked together early on to help develop it and test it. Now its as simple as getting the kit and flashing matho's code onto it . Which is dead simple with the arduino board. Drag and drop. Or just rename file. and upload.

It would be possible to swap out the boxes. Just using plugs and sockets for your connections out of the box. You may also need to adjust your pid settings for different volumes to help ramp up more efficiently and to prevent overshoot once you get to temp.

 

[zlorf]

Thanks fellas. Arduino ordered... can't wait to have a tinker with it. Cheers.

 

[aamcle]

Temp probe question n others.

Due to limited space both my heating element and my temperature probe will be located under the bottom filter inside the malt pipe, the element is 3kw stainless. Its a smaller system based on a 30 litre urn.

I have a choice, Pt100 with a slower response or a less accurate K type thermocouple.
Considering that when the element is on it can change the temperature quite rapidly what would be the best choice?

Speed or. Accuracy?

Does Mathos controller run the pump as well as the heating?
Does it include a PID function?


Atb. Aamcle

 

[djar007]

It controls pump and an element. It is a pid controller.You need to use a ds18b20 temp probe

 

[Edak]

It controls pump and an element. It is a pid controller.You need to use a ds18b20 temp probe

+1
The code is not written to use analogue sensors, not can you plug these into an Arduino without a sophisticated analogue front end.

 

[aamcle]

As it happens I have an Arduino and couple of those temp probes. I don't really like the thing, but as I have made exactly no headway trying to learn OpenAPC (SCADA/HMI) I'll probably fire it up.


Aamcle

 

[dubbadan]

Temp probe question n others.Due to limited space both my heating element and my temperature probe will be located under the bottom filter inside the malt pipe, the element is 3kw stainless. Its a smaller system based on a 30 litre urn.I have a choice, Pt100 with a slower response or a less accurate K type thermocouple.Considering that when the element is on it can change the temperature quite rapidly what would be the best choice?Speed or. Accuracy?Does Mathos controller run the pump as well as the heating?Does it include a PID function?Atb. Aamcle

I'd go for accuracy. I use a pt100, it's really not that slow.

 

[Edak]

I love SCADA, but every system is different and has its own nuances. I can fire up ClearSCADA to monitor my brew but don't really need it as I have separate data logging.

 

[aamcle]

Good Evening All.

My build (I'm in the UK) is progressing slowly and steadily but I have one issue still to resolve, one that has troubled any number of ghetto builds, its the malt pipe bottom seal.
I had hoped to use split silicone tube as a seal but it cuts easily and the malt pipe wall is relatively thin so I fear it would cut them tube.

One idea was to split some nylon tube and run that around the bottom of the malt pipe then put the silicone tube over it so that the nylon tube spreads the downwards force of the clamp and the silicone is not cut.

The ideal would be to "thicken" the bottom to the MP, the nylon tube would do that to an extent but its messy I just don't like the idea.

I could make a lot of small vertical cuts in the bottom of the MP and try to bend over the resulting tabs so widening the tube wall but keeping everything even and level might be impossible.

I'd really appreciate your thoughts about the best way to make the seal or thicken the MP wall.

Many thanks. Aamcle