Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[tateg]

More questions.

Has anyone had any issues with having the temp probe outside of the malt pipe?
Is there any benefit to putting it in the malt pipe ?

cheers

 

[Edak]

No problem here...

 

[lael]

No problem. Temp being reported is the same as coming out of the top of the malt pipe. That is pretty much all that is important. I think I copied edak and put it next to the pump inlet to make sure it has flowing water over it.

I don't think the loss of height and grain bed / capacity is worth putting it inside the malt pipe.

 

[tateg]

Thoroughly recommend the union fittings! I put the on the bottom of both skin fittings; one going onto the pump, and then on the outlet of the pump. Means I can take the whole plumbing section of the Brau off easily, or just the pump. Really happy with flexibility it allows

hey lael,
where did u end up getting those union coupling fittings?
also the 1/2" skin fittings from whitworths, does anyone know what thread they are (NPT/BSP)?

Thanks

 

[Edak]

Don't know about unions, but skin fittings were 1/2 bsp

 

[MastersBrewery]

the unions were Linked by Malted, I think in Lael's kit thread in buy and sell and they were 1/2 inch BSP from memory

 

[tateg]

I thought the skin fittings might be bsp malted linked a npt fitting in the post before lael so I just wanted to make sure
Cheers

 

[MastersBrewery]

in 1/2 inch BSP and NTP are interchangable/compatible, a small amount of thread tape required ..... many threads about this...

 

[tateg]

Fair enough never had to look at it before



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[lael]

Hi all,

Looking at my braumisercostingandsources.xlsx (on my computer but search may find it?) I've got them listed as bsp from anzor.

I got caught out by the whole npt/bsp thing. My personal experience is that they don't actually play as nice together as people say. From memory male npt to female bsp is fine (with tape). but male bsp to female npt was not happy. I would buy everything from Anzor in bsp if I was to purchase parts again - they were great to deal with and had great prices and no minimum order. Shipping did add up quickly though. I found it hard because I was ordering parts before I really knew how I wanted to do the plumbing, but I found it difficult to really work out how the plumbing would work before ordering the parts (make any sense?). Try to figure out your plumbing first, get your quantities right, then do an order.

I pulled the unions apart the other day and found that there was sticky wort inside them - nothing weird, just residue. So I might need to clean them more frequently. Be easier when my new stand gets done soon - oh - that was the other thing. Someone commented when I was building to get the stand figured out first and get it made, then do the rest. I was keen to get brewing, and the stand was pretty bling optional. With the stand happening I look back and would have placed things slightly differently now. So.. I would echo the same thing - get a stand made first (this is mostly important if you are doing more complicated plumbing underneath like I did - and no, it's not that complicated, but makes placement more critical. ).

 

[micbrew]

hi Lael

interested in you're plan for the stand / dimension's ?? I haven't settled on a design although the braumeister is a good start I suppose

..yes I agree stand first = best option
then you can figure out real estate for plumbing and control box etc etc

I have access to a s/steel fabricator .. and hope to get started soonish

also will be ditching ...the big W pot (malt pipe) and going for a 50ltr (Malt Pipe)


thx mick

 

[lael]

I saw this http://www.restaurantneed.com/%C3%8E%C2%A6400mm%C3%8E%C2%A6450mm-stainless-steel-soup-pot-with-stand_p2891.html when I was researching pots and sizes. Basically got it built but with the legs under the pot rim.

But... having trouble figuring out where to put the control box now

50lt malt pipe? or 50lt system? 50Ltr malt pipe would be epic. Think I saw some pics of someone who did it - uses a 100L pot and I think a 50L keg as the malt pipe. don't remember who though. pumps down and into the bottom of the keg and then back up through the grain. No holes in the pot. I'm not sure what the limits on water etc would be, but would assume you'd have to be doing triple batches or something like it.

 

[tateg]

Hi
does anyone know the gauge of the threaded rod that the 20 BM uses ?
is it M10 or M12 ?
cheers

 

[tateg]

Hi
does anyone know the gauge of the threaded rod that the 20 BM uses ?
is it M10 or M12 ?
cheers

20 litre uses 12mm rod if anyone was wondering
Went in store and got one measured

 

[aamcle]

Morning All.

Question about pump rests and.....

There is a very nice UK build :-

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62803

I'm getting the parts together to build a slightly smaller version in 30 litre urn its going to take time.

Pump Rests.

When do pump rests occur?
What triggers them are they on a timer or something else?
How long do they last?
Does the top plate slide down during the rest?
Is it important that the top plate slides down?

Many Thanks. Aamcle

 

[dicko]

Morning All.
Question about pump rests and.....
There is a very nice UK build :-
http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62803
I'm getting the parts together to build a slightly smaller version in 30 litre urn its going to take time.
Pump Rests.
When do pump rests occur?

Every 10 minutes

What triggers them are they on a timer or something else?

The break is programmed into the controller software

How long do they last?

Never really timed it but is roughly one minute.

Does the top plate slide down during the rest?

Yes

Is it important that the top plate slides down?

Probably not but it sure is good to watch

Many Thanks. Aamcle

 

[aamcle]

Ideal thanks.

Do they still occur during temperature ramps ie when going up from 60 to 70C?


Aamcle

 

[dicko]

Yes, the pump break happens from the dough in start...

 

[aamcle]

Thanks

 

[tateg]

Hi guys
I am looking for a food grade epoxy to seal up the thermowell in the pics below, would need to be more of a liquid I think.
Could I use jb weld? Haven't been able to find a definitive answer if it is beer safe
Cheers