Boiling Hops In Hop Bags Or Just Chuck Them In?

[pdilley]

I always throw the hops straight into the kettle for the boil.

I use a large stainless steel racking cane with a long piece of heavy duty silicon tubing to transfer and get to control sludge or not by simply not dipping the end of the cane into the sludge.

It couldn't be simpler and no need to drill holes in the kettle so I can resell on when upgrading pot sizes.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[Bribie G]

The reason I bought the coarse one was that the fine variety was out of stock with Craftbrewer at the time. Glad I did. Next brew I'll post a piccie of the contents of the bag during and after boiling and post on this thread.

 

[Batz]

The reason I bought the coarse one was that the fine variety was out of stock with Craftbrewer at the time. Glad I did. Next brew I'll post a piccie of the contents of the bag during and after boiling and post on this thread.

Good move

Batz

 

[Pumpy]

My hops prefer to go Commando in my wort

pumpy

 

[gjhansford]

To quote Kramer ... "I'm unfetted ...I'm out there ...and I'm free :beerbang:

 

[Bribie G]

Contents of drained hopsock after 90 min boil of 45g of pellets and 20g added 10 mins. This is the 'coarse' hopsock and retained all the crud - wort tastes great.

 

[Fantoman]

I generally use a hopsock, but on the weekend decided to let the hops run free... :blink:

Word of warning, I would recommend against just chucking in whole flowers unless you have a hopscreen or similar - I ended up with a flower stuck in the tap of my urn and had to syphon the contents out as the tap was completely blocked (this was after whirlpooling as well). Made for a very frustrating brew day! :angry:

 

[zebba]

So what about dryhopping? Chuck em straight in? Sock? Sock + weight? Tea?

 

[Tyred]

Teaball or free. I normally just throw them in on about the second day of fermentation. They seem to drop out after awhile, especially when crash chilled.

 

[Bretto77]

I agree with Tyred let them go free for dry hopping. Crash chill and rack when you want to remove them. The boys at the brewing network advise to dry hop for 7 to 14 days, going over this tends to create grassy notes (I'm not a fan of this flavour).

Cheers
Brett

Teaball or free. I normally just throw them in on about the second day of fermentation. They seem to drop out after awhile, especially when crash chilled.

 

[Yikes]

Why not teaball in the boil? Would this work any better?
I guess you would need to watch out if you were trying to do multiple additions. It would get pretty hot.
I used a hopsock for the first time yesterday. A lot easier than trying to get it out later. I was sick of having leafy bits in my beer. I did find that the wort tasted a lot less bitter than the last time i brewed that recipe though.

 

[t2000kw]

Why not teaball in the boil? Would this work any better?
I guess you would need to watch out if you were trying to do multiple additions. It would get pretty hot.
I used a hopsock for the first time yesterday. A lot easier than trying to get it out later. I was sick of having leafy bits in my beer. I did find that the wort tasted a lot less bitter than the last time i brewed that recipe though.

That would seem to verify reports that it cuts down on hop utilization since the hops can't boil as vigorously in a hop sock.

I use a large colander to strain mine out after I've cooled the wort. I just pour the brewpot out through the colander into the fermenter. They probably help to strain out some particles also.

Don

 

[Murcluf]

I used to bag them when i first started brewing but now chuck the hops in it so much better that way. When the boil is finished i pour the work into the ferment with a strainer on top which catches 99% of it and airates my wort at the same time works for me..!!

 

[QldKev]

Just chuck them in; otherwise it's like going swimming with bathers on...

QldKev

 

[jonocarroll]

I used to bag them when i first started brewing but now chuck the hops in it so much better that way. When the boil is finished i pour the work into the ferment with a strainer on top which catches 99% of it and airates my wort at the same time works for me..!!

Aerating nice and hot then?

For all those worried about continuing bitterness - surely most of the oils have been released from the solid material... yeah? They will still be in your wort even if you use a hopsock.

I am curious to know the required temperature for isomerization of the acids - if they only isomerize at 100*C then you have no issue. I'm sure the effect is temperature dependent, just look at FWH as an example.

 

[State of the Mind]

No you shouldn't put hops in the hop bag. The hops need to be able to move freely so that the boiling action can remove insouuble proteins. By letting the hops move freely they act as a filter and collect the insoluble proteins

 

[Nick JD]

No you shouldn't put hops in the hop bag. The hops need to be able to move freely so that the boiling action can remove insouuble proteins. By letting the hops move freely they act as a filter and collect the insoluble proteins

Flowers or pellets that turn to dust?

 

[Supra-Jim]

I am curious to know the required temperature for isomerization of the acids - if they only isomerize at 100*C then you have no issue. I'm sure the effect is temperature dependent, just look at FWH as an example.

Hi QB,

I found this recently, and posted in another regarding chilling, anyway:

"At 70deg C, less than 10% of alpha acids were converted in a 90 minute boil, At 120deg C, only 30 minutes were required for 90% conversion"

Link is here http://ift.confex.com/ift/2004/techprogram/paper_25787.htm

I think they are looking at boiling in modified atmospheres (vacuum and pressurised).

So I would think that % of isomerisation is a function of time and temperature.

Cheers SJ

 

[Phoney]

The reason I bought the coarse one was that the fine variety was out of stock with Craftbrewer at the time. Glad I did. Next brew I'll post a piccie of the contents of the bag during and after boiling and post on this thread.

I have the 250 micron (fine) large hop sock from craftbrewer. Is it worth the $20 to replace it?

 

[Scruffy]

I use Bribie's socks (from Craftbrewer, models own, , , no affil... etc, etc). However, recently my hop additions have waaaay exceeded the 200g mark and it got decidedly viscous in there. I think I lost quite a bit of bitterness and flavour - i can still dry hop... or even Isohop... However I reckon as a rule of thumb, no more than 100g in one of Bribie's socks... :huh:...

I'm talkin' pellets here - Flowers or plugs just get chucked in, barefoot.