Biofine

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How does biofine handle transporting of kegs? Does it stir up like gelatine?

Cheers
 
I just popped a keg of Toohey's 1913 Standard Pale Ale. It had been in CC for ten days at about 2 degrees then kegged with Biofine and left for about another 10 days.
I only got maybe a half schooner of gunk, following which it was nice and bright. Personally I'm having success by pretty well clearing out in the FV before racking into the keg with Biofine.

I'm in a good position, with two Kegmate fermenting / lagering fridges so I'm in no hurry.
 
Do you think it would work well if I add to primary fermenter?
Currently add to keg & it works amazingly well. Haven't blown a keg yet to see whether the last half pint is as muddy as the first half pint

New days Bribie, You tell us.
 
Does it stir up like gelatine?
How does biofine handle transporting of kegs?

Cheers

Does it stir up like gelatine? Yes it does..
 
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So after reading this entire thread, it's still not clear to me as why Bio is so much better than gelatine. Can any tell explain what you hated about gel, and how bio fixes that ? cheers in advance.
 
The most glaringly obvious ones are that it acts faster, more effectively, removes yeast and non-yeast related haze and is not animal based.
 
In addition to what manticle said - preparation time is much lower. Whereas gelatin requires mixture with warm water and therefore more attention to sanitisation, I can simply shoot some biofine from a sanitised syringe straight from the bottle.
 
In addition to what manticle said - preparation time is much lower. Whereas gelatin requires mixture with warm water and therefore more attention to sanitisation, I can simply shoot some biofine from a sanitised syringe straight from the bottle.

Is that straight into the keg?
 
I do it in the keg, yes, but I don't see why you couldn't fine in the fermenter prior to transfer too. As long as it's cold.
 
What I've on this thread, you cannot re-use the yeast when applying to the Fv. Which in my case wouldn't work for me. so it would have to be into the keg. And as Batz said it will still stir up in the bottom if moved around. So i'm just trying to see the benefits over gel. F*** it, for $14 I'll just try it myself and report back. cheers.
 
I've washed yeast from a biofine'd yeast cake plenty of times, who said you couldn't?
 
Probably a commercial brewery thing.
In any case I always thought that they would have dumped their yeast from the bottom of the conicals prior to Biofine anyway.
 
What I've on this thread, you cannot re-use the yeast when applying to the Fv. Which in my case wouldn't work for me. so it would have to be into the keg. And as Batz said it will still stir up in the bottom if moved around. So i'm just trying to see the benefits over gel. F*** it, for $14 I'll just try it myself and report back. cheers.
If your worried about collecting the yeast with any fining agent in it Brad, you could always skim it off the High Krausen, unless of course if you are a lager man then it would have to be taken off the bottom.
 
Probably a commercial brewery thing.
In any case I always thought that they would have dumped their yeast from the bottom of the conicals prior to Biofine anyway.

As Bribie said. Remember the initial point of silica hydrogel was to improve DE filter performance. That is, to enable a better and longer run, it will allow you to do 120hl odd run compared to a 60hl if the beer was unfined and only cold cellared for 2-4 day’s as example. On the commercial side, in the big breweries the beer would be off yeast and likely in a bbt before transfer to a packaging tank. Even without that, good commercial practice is to start pulling yeast as soon as the tank is cleared for vdk and put to chill.

Cone to cone pitching is best done when the beer is still warm. We had heaps of issues pitching cold, a chat with a mate recommended warm pitches, the fermentation and beer quality shot up straight away. Soooo, normally we would not reuse that yeast again anyway once cold and if so, only as a last resort.

If you are seeking to maximise yeast precipitation and coagulation making sure you add water salts is also key. Yee olde metal calcium forms an ionic bridge with the yeast to help it come together and fall out. Part of the long cellaring times in soft water areas is due to the lack of metals to help yeast come together and clear out the beer ...
 
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As Bribie said. Remember the initial point of silica hydrogel was to improve DE filter performance. That is, to enable a better and longer run, it will allow you to do 120hl odd run compared to a 60hl if the beer was unfined and only cold cellared for 2-4 day’s as example. On the commercial side, in the big breweries the beer would be off yeast and likely in a bbt before transfer to a packaging tank. Even without that, good commercial practice is to start pulling yeast as soon as the tank is cleared for vdk and put to chill.

Cone to cone pitching is best done when the beer is still warm. We had heaps of issues pitching cold, a chat with a mate recommended warm pitches, the fermentation and beer quality shot up straight away. Soooo, normally we would not reuse that yeast again anyway once cold and if so, only as a last resort.

If you are seeking to maximise yeast precipitation and coagulation making sure you add water salts is also key. Yee olde metal calcium forms an ionic bridge with the yeast to help it come together and fall out. Part of the long cellaring times in soft water areas is due to the lack of metals to help yeast come together and clear out the beer ...
Hi all,

I read that it also accentuates malt character, which I'm keen to try on the recent batch of Vienna Lager (albeit a slow yeast acitvity)

Let me know if this isn't right or needs improvement.

1.CC Primary at 1c for 2 days
2.Carefully leaving the trub/yeast cake behind whilst racking to secondary with Biofine to ensure a good mixing. (Is this vigorous enough for a good mixing?)
3. Leave for 2-3 days in secondary before bottle conditioning.

I use mini kegs and naturally carb them. So it'll be around 2 weeks at 17c then the lagering begins after that.


Thank you in advance chaps!
 
23172848_1908850015797407_198631361399921802_n.jpg




Biofine ya wanker.
 
Hi all,

I read that it also accentuates malt character, which I'm keen to try on the recent batch of Vienna Lager (albeit a slow yeast acitvity)

Let me know if this isn't right or needs improvement.

1.CC Primary at 1c for 2 days
2.Carefully leaving the trub/yeast cake behind whilst racking to secondary with Biofine to ensure a good mixing. (Is this vigorous enough for a good mixing?)
3. Leave for 2-3 days in secondary before bottle conditioning.

I use mini kegs and naturally carb them. So it'll be around 2 weeks at 17c then the lagering begins after that.


Thank you in advance chaps!
There's a danger of oxidising the brew, might need to find some way of flushing the secondary container with CO2 prior to leaving it in secondary before bottling.
If bottling, personally I would rather clear the beer to almost bright by CCing in primary and just bottle directly out of that, without Biofine. Let time do its thing.
 
Kegging done last weekend and it was crystal clear going in.
Was curious to see what a Biofined yeast cake layer looks like (probably no difference), but it was covered by a layer of ice from the CC during the secondary.

It's now naturally carbing at 17c.

So, it's turn out to be a nice experiment. A lager that has been CC to an inch of it's life with Biofine added- Will it still have enough yeast to naturally carb?

20171105_211831.jpg
 
Has anyone found their bottle of Biofine separates? I used mine this morning and the bottom half of the bottle has crystals in it, similar to undissolved salt or sugar. I have had it stored in the fridge rather than the warm shed, now back to room temperature and after shaking like mad still separates??
I'm hoping it still performs, I'll know in a couple of days I guess.

Anyone else found their bottle like this?
 

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