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Biab recipes?

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Gloveski

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Grassy would more likely be from hops than malt. Sour is usually a sign of infection.

Anyway, this is the red ale recipe, other than changing the yeast from US-05 to 1469 a couple of years ago it has remained unchanged since I first brewed it back in 2013 some time.

25 litre batch size, based on 75% brewhouse efficiency.
4.000 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett) (5.9 EBC) Grain 4 86.6 %
0.300 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 5 6.5 %
0.200 kg Carapils (Weyermann) (3.9 EBC) Grain 6 4.3 %
0.070 kg Black Malt (Thomas Fawcett) (1300.2 EBC) Grain 7 1.5 %
0.050 kg Acidulated (Weyermann) (4.5 EBC) Grain 8 1.1 %
Mash at 67C for 70 minutes, 72C for 15 minutes*, 78C mash out.

20.00 g Cascade [6.60 %] - First Wort 75.0 min Hop 9 15.0 IBUs
8.00 g Hallertau Magnum [10.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 10 8.3 IBUs
20.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 11 12.0 IBUs
30g Cascade dry hop near end of ferment.
75 minute boil.

West Yorkshire Ale (Wyeast Labs #1469) Yeast
Ferment at 18C.

Est Original Gravity: 1.0434 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.0127 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.0 %
Bitterness: 35.3 IBUs
Est Color: 31.9 EBC

Don't be fooled by the lowish ABV, it is very flavorful and a lovely session ale. The Caraaroma is most dominant but the hops are present enough to balance it nicely. The latest one which I kegged on Saturday also featured an addition of oak chips when I dry hopped it. Keen to see how that went. With the hops, I just leave the Cascade and Centennial additions the same (AA% varies), and adjust the Magnum to keep the IBUs around 35. Sometimes I just increase the FWH Cascade if the Magnum ends up only being like 3g or something stupidly small.

*This mash step is optional. I incorporate it as it's meant to assist with head retention, but you don't have to do it.
I recently brewed Rocker’s red ale and can 2nd that it’s an awesome brew , keg was done very quickly , I used US05 but keen to try again with 1469
 

Rocker1986

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The only thing I'd do is change the colour rating on the Caraaroma. It's more around 180-190 lovibond. Beersmith had it too low as well and it threw out the colour rating of my red ale.
 

MHB

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I hope you realise that there is no such beast as a BIAB recipe.
Any all grain recipe can be brewed on any system using a heap of different mash, lautering, wort separation systems. It will be up to you as a brewer to optimise your milling, efficiency and other processes to suit your system.
This should be good news, it opens up a lot of recipes for you to use.

For BIAB you would generally mill a lot finer than you would for say a recirculating system, do a couple of brews, keep good records so you can calculate your efficiency and you can make any AG recipe work for you.
Mark
 

Schikitar

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How's this look guys?
Yeah, looks pretty good for a first run at a sessionable stout. How do you like your stouts? Dry/thin, sweet/thick, coffee, chocolate, bitter? There's a few tweaks you could make to get the right outcome..
 

Rocker1986

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Mark makes a good point actually. I had a different experience with the mill settings though, coarser worked better for me than finer, so I've stuck with it.
 

Skillz

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Thanks for the input everyone, all helps make better beer.
I understand i can make all recipes work for biab, i was just looking for tried and true ones as these will be my first few brews.
When i have a greater understanding of grains to use, i will invest in a mill and do my own grinds and that way i can bulk purchase more.
At the moment iam stuck with online only orders so i get the grind i get.
I will figure out all my efficiencies and losses soon and build up my brewing profile.

Enjoying the journey of learing and slowly upgrading.
 

MHB

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I'm a bit lucky, my local (Brewman) lets you choose your grind, anywhere from very fine to very coarse, there are also a couple of hundred well tested recipes in BrewBuilder, I can even set up my batch size and efficiency and it will auto calculate all the malt and hops - worth having a look at.
At present you can get 20kg delivered to your door for about $21.00, 3-4 grain bills with hops landed, all packed in barrier bags.... Sounding like an ad, but I think its about the best service in Oz.
Mark
 

Pat5456

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I'm pretty new to BIAB brewing, but I came up with this IPA recipe to both experiment with a specific hop character and as the first trial on my temperature controlled fermenting fridge and it came out nicely. Having not tried Munich malt before I felt that it added depth to the malt profile while not taking away from the big pineappley Riwaka flavours. If anything I would have liked to up the dry hop a little but was all I had on hand...

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/577221/riwaka-ipa

As MHB said above I think the only real difference between most AG and BIAB recipes is in the fineness of the grind and that I usually add 1% of acid malt to my bill to bring the Ph down
 
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Schikitar

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BF is fine, just be aware that it doesn't care about your mash temps when calculating gravities.
Just quoting myself because I have told a massive lie - BrewersFriend does take mash temp into account, the reason it never worked for me is because I was entering the times back to front! What a goose, anyway, I just needed to clarify as I just discovered my mistake!
 

MHB

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I'm pretty new to BIAB brewing, but I came up with this IPA recipe to both experiment with a specific hop character and as the first trial on my temperature controlled fermenting fridge and it came out nicely. Having not tried Munich malt before I felt that it added depth to the malt profile while not taking away from the big pineappley Riwaka flavours. If anything I would have liked to up the dry hop a little but was all I had on hand...

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/577221/riwaka-ipa

As MHB said above I think the only real difference between most AG and BIAB recipes is in the fineness of the grind and that I usually add 1% of acid malt to my bill to bring the Ph down
Acid malt is very useful!
Worth knowing that 1% of grist lowers the pH by 0.1points of pH.
Generally additions up to 5% of grist are no problem, that's enough to lower your pH from 6 to 5.5, or 5.8 to 5.3...
If your water has enough carbonate to put you outside your target pH range I would look at using some acid (lactic by preference).
Not related to BIAB V other methods, for any method optimising pH is just good brewing practice.
Mark
 

Skillz

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Thought i would give an update on the stout as i just kegged it. Og 1.055.
Fg 1.018.
24 liters into the fermenter.
Spent 7 days at 17'c
5 at 20'c
Over the next 4 days was brought down and held at 1'c.
Tasted fine and surprised me with a fair bis of fizz in it.
Will carb at 6psi for a week then let you know the verdict.
Cheers.
 

Skillz

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Update, stout is so so, put a bit of lemonade in it and its good.
But just wanted to let you know Rocker1986 that i just had the first glass of the Red and its a big thums up, very balanced and easy to drink, thanks for all the help from everyone.
 

Rocker1986

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You'll probably find the stout improves with more time, it is a style that generally gets a lot better with long term ageing. I just brewed a big one yesterday using a reiterated mash, nearly 9kg grain for an OG of 1.0855 in 21-22 litres. It will go into the fermenter soon and be kegged away until next winter.
Thanks for the comments on the red ale too mate, glad to hear it turned out well!
 

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