Ball lock keg stripped thread

[manticle]

I think I've stripped the thread on one of my outposts (male thread that sits inside the keg, not the replaceable part).
Has anyone ever successfully re-threaded one of these? I think it's just a skerrick of thread at the top that needs attention.
Any advice on what to watch out for etc would be great as I'd very much like to salvage it.

Also seem to be having trouble occasionally with some of the disconnects (new) leaking beer or gas and getting disconnects on or off. Should I just replace the grey and black generic with JG and is it as simple as just making sure all the seals are new? Would keg lube solve my problems?

Very noob questions as far as kegging goes I'm sure (but I am new to kegging) and I probably haven't searched as hard as I should have for which I apologise.

 

[QldKev]

Keg lube helps heaps with dry old seals. I've got some kegs I've been going to replace the o-rings on for the past 9 years.

The disconnects you have, which ones are they? I was talking to another brewer today who has new disconnects and also having leakage issues.

 

[manticle]

Just generic grey and black. Came with the keg setup. They don't leak on every keg though. Sometimes they go on easy. sometimes they need a real push - same with removal.

Will get some lube. Cheers.

 

[Camo6]

I've got a corny with a distorted post thread that needs some attention. I planned on sizing up a die to clean it up but found that it's sealing even though it's not all the way home. If you figured out the thread pitch and got a decent die you could probably clean yours up if its not too bad. How bad is it? Is it " hmmm, this post is a bit hard to tighten" or is it like " Holy mother of God, what have I done?" Just reread, sounds like a die or thread file might clean it up.

Haven't had disconnects leak but have one post that leaks from the thread even with a new dip tube O ring. Anyone have to use thread tape to seal a post thread?

Definitely invest in some keg lube. I used KY for a long time to reduce friction with great success. It worked on the keg setup as well.

 

[Byran]

My gas ins were giving me slow leaks, I lost a gas bottle or 2 before I worked it out. Luuuuuube em up baby. Also I have noticed that if you have your kegs connected with the gas off and the beer is in the kegs it will absorb the CO2 and can leave your beer a little flat unless you leave the gas on all the time until they are carbed to the level you need.

 

[manticle]

After going through my 2.6 kg bottle very quickly, I now leave gas off mostly and just turn it on to serve/replace. I'm a low carb kind of guy anyway.

@camo6: It's the very beginning part of the thread so the post doesn't take at all. It did when I got it - tried to accidentally fit a gas in post to it (it's a beer out post) - not sure if they are same but different and that might have done it? Thread looks OK but top bit is a tad suss. If I can work out the diameter, I should be able to borrow some stuff from work to re-thread or I could take to it with a diamond rifler file - just don't want to **** it more.

 

[Camo6]

Sounds like a thread file will work if you can get your hands on one. You won't need to know the diameter then, just match the thread pitch to the right pitch of the file and give it some licks. If I remember I'll bring my file home and have a go at mine and see if it works.

 

[Cube]

All my new disconnects leaked out the top. A tighten up fixed them all. Not good being new but ok now. Lube all seals and don't over tighten the posts when putting them back on.

I have some generic poppets that make the disconnect hard to put on. It may be that for yours as well. The generic poppets are known for this and a side note, they pour slower from those posts.

 

[manticle]

Cheers Camo.

@Cube - which are the generic poppets and which would you recommend? I had a few of the small ones with three feet which I found troublesome after popping out to clean. Have some other single piece + spring ( http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/KAIUEOMA%20kegs-and-accessories/7KEG+TANK+PL+POP+KK )

 

[HBHB]

Manticle, the generic ones with the seperate spring are ok and we've used them on hundreds of kegs. I have them in 22 of my own at home as well. They are a little heavier in the spring and are certainly much easier to engage with the disconnects when you drop the gas pressure back a little on the keg before trying to connect.

Use a foam stable lube like the sanitary clear one or the skerra lube. A tiny smear will keep them in good condition for ages if done regularly.


Martin

 

[Rodolphe01]

With regard to the disconnects being tight, it might be worth checking the posts. I noticed yesterday that 2 kegs I bought have liquid posts on both the gas in and liquid out. I have been using the kegs for a few months and only just realised... I only realised because I pulled the keg apart and couldn't distinguish the posts when I went to re-assemble.

It explains why the gas disconnect has been hard to pull off. It doesn't leak though. I'm not sure what the consequence is. Next HB order I'll probably get some new gas posts.

 

[J.T]

I think I've stripped the thread on one of my outposts (male thread that sits inside the keg, not the replaceable part).
Has anyone ever successfully re-threaded one of these? I think it's just a skerrick of thread at the top that needs attention.
Any advice on what to watch out for etc would be great as I'd very much like to salvage it.

I recently had a dodgy thread on a keg, the post would not screw on. Me and a more experienced mate had a good crack at fixing it with a thread file and also tried to cut a new thread with a die. But the stainless was just too damn hard, so we decided to cut our losses and just buy a new keg rather than spending 5 x's that in time and stress trying to fix it.

 

[Camo6]

That's what I was afraid of. Especially if the faults at the top of the thread. Getting a die to start cutting will be hard. Bugger it. Get an impact gun, line it up straight and rattle the c#nt on like most of the apprentices I know would do!

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

My gas ins were giving me slow leaks, I lost a gas bottle or 2 before I worked it out. Luuuuuube em up baby. Also I have noticed that if you have your kegs connected with the gas off and the beer is in the kegs it will absorb the CO2 and can leave your beer a little flat unless you leave the gas on all the time until they are carbed to the level you need.

After going through my 2.6 kg bottle very quickly, I now leave gas off mostly and just turn it on to serve/replace. I'm a low carb kind of guy anyway.

@camo6: It's the very beginning part of the thread so the post doesn't take at all. It did when I got it - tried to accidentally fit a gas in post to it (it's a beer out post) - not sure if they are same but different and that might have done it? Thread looks OK but top bit is a tad suss. If I can work out the diameter, I should be able to borrow some stuff from work to re-thread or I could take to it with a diamond rifler file - just don't want to **** it more.

If you have your system carbed up to desired pressure with no leaks, there should theoretically be no difference between turning off the gas or leaving it on right? As even if you set a very low pressure and turn the gas off, if that gas get absorbed into the beer it is such a small amount of gas that the carbonation level of the beer should not change enough to notice. Likewise if you leave the gas on at the same pressure, the beer is not going to absorb anymore by having it turned on. The only way you'd use more gas if there is a leak or if the gas eventually finds its way out through the plastic lines etc.

 

[manticle]

Correct. I think some leaked without me knowing though. One leaks beer, another audibly leaks gas. I know that now but didn't originally so as a precaution, I just turn it off. Easy for me who prefers cask carb to 4vol fizziness

 

[Bribie G]

Just generic grey and black. Came with the keg setup. They don't leak on every keg though. Sometimes they go on easy. sometimes they need a real push - same with removal.

Will get some lube. Cheers.

I haven't had problems with leakage but sometimes, especially with the German Cornies, it's very difficult to pop on the QD, especially the beer QD. A smear of lube helps instantly.

For the keg, maybe try plumbers thread tape and see if it seats ok? I stripped the top of my original Birko tap assembly where the top of the tap screws onto the casting that pokes out of the urn, and good old plumbers tape got me through about 50 brews till I tracked down a replacement part.

 

[Byran]

If you have your system carbed up to desired pressure with no leaks, there should theoretically be no difference between turning off the gas or leaving it on right? As even if you set a very low pressure and turn the gas off, if that gas get absorbed into the beer it is such a small amount of gas that the carbonation level of the beer should not change enough to notice. Likewise if you leave the gas on at the same pressure, the beer is not going to absorb anymore by having it turned on. The only way you'd use more gas if there is a leak or if the gas eventually finds its way out through the plastic lines etc.

Yeh but if you do have a slow leak and don't turn it off you wont know, lose a full gas bottle, and have under carbed beer.
I spent ages trying to figure out what the problem was with mine. Sprayed endlessly with soapy water and couldn't find the gas leak.
New orings, a bit of thread tape and some lube worked wonders. But I still get a leak every now and then. If you connect with pressure and then turn the gas off the bottle pressure reg will fall to let you know. Easier than spraying soapy water everywhere.
I force carb all my kegs in 10 mins now anyway so its not an issue

 

[Truman42]

I recently brought 2 new ball lock posts and the gas one leaked from under the QD and only when the QD was connected.

I took the O ring off (that was supplied with the post) and replaced it with another O ring I had in my keg parts box and the leak stopped. If I tilt the QD slightly it leaks again but is ok when sitting square on the post. The O rings looked identical but Im guessing the one supplied was slightly thinner than the other one.

I tried 3 different QDs and they all leaked gas until I changed the O ring so that was certainly the culprit. Ive alos noticed that if I grab the beer line and lift it slightly beer leaks out past the push in fitting. So yes cheap crap.

As Kev suggested to me Im going to replace them all with JG disconnects. Ive already lost a full bottle of gas so not worth losing another.

 

[Byran]

I reckon that was the problem too, I think an oring that is a bit fatter than the ones they usually provide would be the best solution. I recently done some research on gas fitting and most documents refer to ensuring that all o ring seals on gas setups are coated with lubricant to ensure correct bedding.

 

[manticle]

I haven't had problems with leakage but sometimes, especially with the German Cornies, it's very difficult to pop on the QD, especially the beer QD. A smear of lube helps instantly.

For the keg, maybe try plumbers thread tape and see if it seats ok? I stripped the top of my original Birko tap assembly where the top of the tap screws onto the casting that pokes out of the urn, and good old plumbers tape got me through about 50 brews till I tracked down a replacement part.

I tried thread tape. The issue is that the plug won't take to the thread (as in get started) so if there is an problem with the thread, it's right at the top.