Hi Wortgames,Arnie, that is very cool!
Hi Pedro, welcome to the beerporn peepshow!
I heard back from the folks at LabJack. Apparently the LabJack U3 would be the go:
http://www.labjack.com/labjack_u3.php?prodId=25
It has 16 analog/digital IOs plus 4 digital IOs, and sells for US$99.
They seem pretty confident that the free DaqFactory Express software that comes with it will do the trick nicely.
Probe-wise, the options are:
EI-1034, sensor in stainless probe, US$49
EI-1022, sensor in plastic probe, US$29.
However they suggested I could look at the data sheets for the probes, source the core sensors, and make up the probes myself.
It looks like the probes can hook up directly to the LabJack, I just need some wotsits to go between the labjack and the mains relays for the outputs.
The ProfiLab software that Ocean Controls sells is nothing to do with the LabJack folks by the looks of it, which suggests that at least this LabJack stuff is a fairly open standard.
Ocean Controls also sells a similar device, not LabJack brand but I would imagine very similar, called iUSBDAQ:
http://oceancontrols.com.au/data_acquisiti...usb/iusbdaq.htm.
They've got it for $149 plus GST but apparently it sells for $79 in the states, 20% less than the LJ U3.
There's more information (and some cool screenshots) on the iUSBDAQ here in a 1.8Mb PDF:
http://www.hytekautomation.com/Downloads/i...6_UserGuide.pdf
Does anyone fancy sussing that one out for value / features?
the labjack looks pretty good. I had a browse of the manual, and although the examples were in C (not a language I understand) it looks as though it will be capable of automating the brewery.
I didn't download the code samples, so I can't give you a detailed response.
Regarding probes, I wouldn't waste my money. $5 or so for an LM35, a bit of wire and connection to the labjack with 12 bit analog resolution should give you better than 0.1 deg resolution (providing your voltages are stable). As far as casing goes, it can be as simple as a length of copper pipe that is plugged at the business end. You can buy end caps (either flared types or solder), or you can do something even simpler - clean the end of the pipe (esp inside), flux it, squash it closed in a vice, and then solder, making sure the solder wicks into the compressed part. Cheap and reliable.
If you are looking for a source of good cheap solid state relays, look no further than:
Oatley Electronics - SSR1
For the price, it's difficult finding a relay to do the same job :super:
cheers, Arnie