Camo6 said:
step off george.jpg
No offence but I think you need to take a step back and get some advice George. I've had a quick look at your drawing and got a bit confused. You seem to be trying to start a fire or kill someone. Not sure if this is your intention. Switches don't switch active to neutral, switching neutrals is not recommended, controlling a heavy load through an inline switch is bad practice, an SSR does not have an active and neutral connection, lack of earthing kills.
I haven't tasted a glass of homebrew yet that's worth dying for.
Camo6 has valid points....but I was hoping to promote your enthusiasm a bit more George as the details emerged and as you learnt a bit about this stuff.
Anything you understand ends up easy. I'm sure the love for brewing is what you're riding on. But a boot to the head from 240V is...shall I say...memorable - and worst case: you'll never remember anything ever again.
Responding to your question directly, your sketch appears to have indicated the load switching terminals of your SSD correctly. So keep up using your judgement.
Do you have any electrical test equipment? A multi meter? Go ahead and throw a 9V battery across Pin3 and Pin4 (minding polarity) and evaluate the SSD operation. That LED will turn on when energised.
Check your house's RCD and test that sucker. Press the button and make sure all the lights go out. Then I'd get an appliance you don't much care for (old lamp) and cut the sheath, cut the active (brown) and thow those two ends onto Pin1 and Pin2. Leave the neutral un-cut. This would be the moment where you have adrenaline in your blood and should be shit scared/respectful of electricity. In a healthy way of course.
Next, nearly all electrical engineering considers protection first. What fault currents will occur in what circumstances; Where does the fault current go? (Answer 1 is always: not through a human)
How do I isolate parts of equipment. Where am I going to place my circuit breakers? Will the protection coordinate with my house mains ?
Where is the energy going? Good point by Camo6... switches aren't ideal for moving tons of electrical pixies. Look into a device called a contactor.
George, Good onya for getting in there and asking. I'll help you where/when I can. I'm sure you're seeing how many more sketches you will need to draft up to sort out this bad boy!.
And you will. But don't go this alone....if you have a sparky mate that happens to love your brewing wares.....hook him up for advice!
Jason
EDIT: As another idea (because I'm not sure of your experience / confidence with electricity) You could get yourself a 24 VAC power adapter which you could use as your dummy 240VAC power supply.
http://www.radioparts.com.au/product/33770200/ac2410?gclid=CM6eyf3Ex8wCFYZjvAodsx0Ljg#.Vy2mXhV97uQ
Just pretend that the power out of the tiny powerpac is main power until you're producing quality designs.
EDIT2: I watched that video link. It looks american with the 120VAC and the power outlet type. In the US, home wiring at 110/120VAC is legal I believe. There is less risk of death. That fluffy music doesn't fit in with the Australian setting.
