Yeah but I bet it would rather watch you struggle.manticle said:My cat's pretty smart.
georgecopley said:New diagram with some help
The Element insulation switch is now between the PID and the SSR, with two editorial 16A inline fuse 1st main power coming in 2nd between SSR and element. He has add the Alarm Buzzer with switch. The diagram will be for the HLT and Mash tun. With the boiler he is going to get back to me in regards where to put the 4000W 220V AC SCR Voltage Regulator Dimmer Electric Motor Speed Controller for the element.
Why are you adding this? Element larger than maximum current source?georgecopley said:With the boiler he is going to get back to me in regards where to put the 4000W 220V AC SCR Voltage Regulator Dimmer Electric Motor Speed Controller for the element.
pretty sure my dog posted a pretty good answer to his post with an accurate schematic (smart dog), along with being told his diagram was incorrect..."If you were to go back and take a look at the first schematic pic he put up also the video link from Ink Bird you can see it is wrong, That was his main question he was asking for. Which no one answered"
because its good practice, provides a convenient ground location to the chassis and often has a great big hunk of a heatsink on the back made out of nicely conductive metalOne person telling George earth the Solid state relay
Give me your reason WHY ? I’ll tell you No one does in the electronics industry
)no idea why you are switching the 12v supply to the SSR instead of the 240v mains power.
Hypothetically you're SSR fails and latches closed, that switch will do absolutely nothing as you still have 240v mains heading into the 'live' side”
If you are going to have two switches, make both of them kill power to the element/SSR/most likely bit which you will be near/touching
He is not using the switch as a kill switch he wants to be able to have the proportional–integral–derivative controller ON without the element been ON
No idea how this will stop a boil over and the PID controller is there to regulate the power going to the element via PWM control, to maintain whatever temperature is set (and also likely allows for a set power output % for fixed boiling duties), but if a volume control helps him then sure...Also someone said why are you going to use a Voltage Regulator Dimmer
it's there to only allow up to 220v or lower also he wants to stop any boil overs
which I have check the best place for it is in front of solid state relay and behind the switch
Most of the posts have either tried to be informative or at worst, consider the welfare of not just George but anyone else (in the world) who may read and follow the advice on here.georgecopley said:Hello my name is Derrick
George's neighbour in our street YES I'm a qualified electronics technician.
George ask me for some technical support on his project.
I understand why he choose such a forum clearly there are advance home brewers who have build their own electric brewing system on here.
And you could say he was hopping to get the right direction by those people.
Yes George's knowledge of electronics is basics I can see that, at least he has the nous to seek information and ask questions
This morning when we were having chat I could see he was getting quiet frustrated.
I asked can I help
Clearly he is only half way through is build where is still waiting on parts from overseas
Than he showed me this forum and I read the topic from start to finish I could not believe the **** that has been given to George.
If you were to go back and take a look at the first schematic pic he put up also the video link from Ink Bird you can see it is wrong, That was his main question he was asking for. Which no one answered
Here some of the comments to George
[/*]
One person telling George earth the Solid state relay
Give me your reason WHY ? I’ll tell you No one does in the electronics industry
l'd be wary of using those rockers with a 10A load going through. Any slightly dodgy connection and those rockers will get hot. “
That's a load of bull it's Toggle switches are ones you look out for.
3)no idea why you are switching the 12v supply to the SSR instead of the 240v mains power.
Hypothetically you're SSR fails and latches closed, that switch will do absolutely nothing as you still have 240v mains heading into the 'live' side”
If you are going to have two switches, make both of them kill power to the element/SSR/most likely bit which you will be near/touchingHe is not using the switch as a kill switch he wants to be able to have the proportional–integral–derivative controller ON without the element been ON
I told George the best way to wire up proportional integral derivative controller
Also someone said why are you going to use a Voltage Regulator Dimmer
it's there to only allow up to 220v or lower also he wants to stop any boil overs
which I have check the best place for it is in front of solid state relay and behind the switch
The other people putting up stupid jokes and pictures
And electricity kills I think he knows that
Let me tell you good people it is not the watts or volts that kill it is the AMPS
As well in Western Australian check your power coming in I think you will be surprised to find we are getting over 255V
I have looked at all George's components and they all look quite soundGeorge was asking for your help not to be treated like a fool
I will be mentoring George on his project
I don't drink beer but I will be drinking George's mead and cider
Thanks for your input Derrick.georgecopley said:Hello my name is Derrick
George's neighbour in our street YES I'm a qualified electronics technician.
George ask me for some technical support on his project.
I understand why he choose such a forum clearly there are advance home brewers who have build their own electric brewing system on here.
And you could say he was hopping to get the right direction by those people.
Yes George's knowledge of electronics is basics I can see that, at least he has the nous to seek information and ask questions
This morning when we were having chat I could see he was getting quiet frustrated.
I asked can I help
Clearly he is only half way through is build where is still waiting on parts from overseas
Than he showed me this forum and I read the topic from start to finish I could not believe the **** that has been given to George.
If you were to go back and take a look at the first schematic pic he put up also the video link from Ink Bird you can see it is wrong, That was his main question he was asking for. Which no one answered
Here some the comments to George
One person telling George earth the Solid state relay
Give me your reason WHY ? I’ll tell you No one does in the electronics industry
l'd be wary of using those rockers with a 10A load going through. Any slightly dodgy connection and those rockers will get hot. “
That's a load of bull it's Toggle switches are ones you look out for.
3)no idea why you are switching the 12v supply to the SSR instead of the 240v mains power.
Hypothetically you're SSR fails and latches closed, that switch will do absolutely nothing as you still have 240v mains heading into the 'live' side”
If you are going to have two switches, make both of them kill power to the element/SSR/most likely bit which you will be near/touching
He is not using the switch as a kill switch he wants to be able to have the proportional–integral–derivative controller ON without the element been ON
I told George the best way to wire up proportional integral derivative controller
Also someone said why are you going to use a Voltage Regulator Dimmer
it's there to only allow up to 220v or lower also he wants to stop any boil overs
which I have check the best place for it is in front of solid state relay and behind the switch
The other people putting up stupid jokes and pictures
And electricity kills I think he knows that
Let me tell you good people it is not the watts or volts that kill it is the AMPS
As well in Western Australian check your power coming in I think you will be surprised to find we are getting over 255V
I have looked at all George's components and they all look quite sound
George was asking for your help not to be treated like a fool
I will be mentoring George on his project
I don't drink beer but I will be drinking George's mead and cider
there have been numerous helpful posts as manticle has pointed out. also under litigation laws most won't put their hand up and say outright this is the way to do it as someone will misinterpret it and then get hurt.4. Posts recommending potentially dangerous actions (such as unprotected, incorrect or dangerous 240v wiring) is not recommended, and may be removed at the discretion of the site administrators.
Fixed this for you Derrick.georgecopley said:That's it for now going to have couple more drinks with George