A hole lotta problem

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Colo

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Howdy All,

I'm moving to all grain from extract so have been purchasing some new gear to do so. I have finally found a large pot for a good price that I'll be using as a brew kettle. Im purchasing it from a catering/cooking supplies outfit so unfortunatley it has no pre-drilled hole for a ball valve.

This is going to be essential to my brewing but I cant say I've ever had to drill a hole in a pot before. Anybody done this...any tips, or is this something I need to take to a machining type shop to have done professionally?

As always thanks for any advice.


Cheers

Colo
 
Its not too hard to do,

Do you have a drill? and have you done much drilling of holes?

I would recommend spending the 30 or so bucks on a good carbide tip hole saw, a few of the good brew shops (and probably the site sponsors??) sell them

What part of brisbane are you in? there may also be someone on here who has the gear already and can help you out?
 
Theres lots of vids on youtube. Like Moad said the hole punch is the best option but the most expensive (not that much really). If you go for a hole saw or step drill go slow and use alot of lube and drill a pilot hole first. Dont let it get to hot or the stainless will harden. As soon as it starts to smoke stop and let it cool.

If you do a bit of a search on this site i think it has been asked before not long ago with lots of good answers. Sorry im on phone or id link.

Edit: good point Manticle
 
Luckily I have a mate with a punch but if not I'd probably buy one. After all the faffing about with drill bits, burnt out a drill, burnt myself etc I wish I'd got one earlier. Then again I am not exactly handy and I also have a tendency to blow cash...
 
I had decent results with a step bit from bunnings. Keep it slow, use lots of lube. There's a cheaper version, but I spent a bit more as I knew I'd be doing lots more wholes not long after. Ended up doing about a dozen for my 3v system.

That said, ask around the forum for Brisbane people and/or get involved in club and you're bound to find someone who has the gear who would gladly help you in exchange for beer.

Some of the shops in Brisbane might even offer it as a service?
 
Surely someone will do this for you. I'm on the Sunny Coast but would happily drill a hole in it for you, over a couple of beers of course.
I've done heaps of them.

Batz
 
Coodgee said:
Sounds like some advice i read in my girlfriend's cosmo magazine once.
I was going to add that in, but thought I'd keep it sensible.
 
nosco said:
Dont let it get to hot or the stainless will harden.
No it won't, 300 series SS is austenitic so it cannot be hardened by heat treatment.

The usual problem is that if you don't achieve enough depth of cut you are work hardening the piece, heating it will relieve this.
 
The biggest issue usually is your tool getting hot, losing its temper, and becoming soft. :huh: It'll then go very blunt really quickly. That's why tungsten carbide is popular.

Stainless steel will work harden slightly (as per Lyrebird), but not to any appreciable level compared to typical cutting tools. You can also oxidise some of the alloying compounds if it gets too hot. When the steel is hot and soft, it can also form built up edges on the cutting edges. Built up edges will ruin your cutting tool, even if it's tungsten carbide as it's a layer that's adhered to the actual cutting edge. This softness is usually the cause of people's struggles, rather than the steel being hard. I'd hence say keep it cold.

Depending on your patience level, a foolproof and traditional method is to drill a 3mm pilot hole, then a 10mm hole and the file the rest out with a rats tail file. This is unlikely to create any disasters like a mishap with a hole saw but does take elbow grease.

If the pot is aluminium (soft), then it'll be easy as piss and you can use a cheap steel hole saw.

If the pot is carbon steel then same precautions as stainless applies, but carbon steel is more machinable.

Ensure you centre punch before commencing any drilling.
 
Its a cheapo 40L Aluminium pot but comes with a removable strainer which will work well for me and minimise mess.
 
I've used the cheap stepped bits on aluminium and stainless, they mince up aluminium they do OK on stainless. I'd go stepped over holesaw but punch over all if you can get a hold of one.

nosco said:
go slow and use alot of lube
That's what she said
 
Colo said:
Its a cheapo 40L Aluminium pot but comes with a removable strainer which will work well for me and minimise mess.

Super easy to drill out mate. However if you don't have a drill and can't see yourself re-using one in the near future, you'd be better off borrowing or getting someone else to do it for a couple of beers.

If you do have one, centre punch, pilot, step bit would be my route. Clean the edges with some files.

In terms of attaching the tap - weld or weldless? If weldless and the pot is thick enough, you may want to tap the thread*, which requires more tools but will be super easy. Long before I knew anything about anything, I just drilled 1/2mm smaller than my valve and wound the tap in with elbow grease.

*If it's only a 2mm wall thickness, there's not much point threading and locknuts and silicon washers will do everything you need them to. Even 4mm, you could get away with it as I have done - just don't drill your hole oversize.
 
Colo said:
Its a cheapo 40L Aluminium pot but comes with a removable strainer which will work well for me and minimise mess.
being aluminium, probably get buy with a decent steak knife in a pinch :)
 

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