3068 Starter - Sulfur Central

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Fair enough. I've always found hop matter drops out anyway but you know what you're doing. I was just interested in the reasoning.

Also interested to hear how you go with the krausening. My understanding is that it's a traditional german way of carbonating which I'm interested in trying out one day. I have no idea how you control the level of carb.
 
Fair enough. I've always found hop matter drops out anyway but you know what you're doing. I was just interested in the reasoning.
Also interested to hear how you go with the krausening. My understanding is that it's a traditional german way of carbonating which I'm interested in trying out one day. I have no idea how you control the level of carb.

well i dont want hop matter blocking my dib tube in the keg either. the neck of a bottle is a tad bigger! ;)

aslo, top cropping/krausing = two different beasts. top cropping is taking JUST yeast for propegation or seeding into a batch.

Krausening is typically when you leave a % of fermenting beer to get your desired pitch rate and you use that to either bottle condition or start fermenting a new batch.

what i would be doing is top cropping. although i have been tempted to krausen beers, the only problem is the loss in primary. Actually thinking about it i do 'krausen' most of my repitches as i typically take a cup or so of fermenting beer (as long as its a lower colour and not hopped off its head) and drop that in as well just to make sure my pitch rate is on spot if the krausen looks a little low.
 
well i dont want hop matter blocking my dib tube in the keg either. the neck of a bottle is a tad bigger! ;)

aslo, top cropping/krausing = two different beasts. top cropping is taking JUST yeast for propegation or seeding into a batch.

Krausening is typically when you leave a % of fermenting beer to get your desired pitch rate and you use that to either bottle condition or start fermenting a new batch.

what i would be doing is top cropping. although i have been tempted to krausen beers, the only problem is the loss in primary. Actually thinking about it i do 'krausen' most of my repitches as i typically take a cup or so of fermenting beer (as long as its a lower colour and not hopped off its head) and drop that in as well just to make sure my pitch rate is on spot if the krausen looks a little low.

I know they're two different things (I'm a regular top cropper) - just misread your post and missed the 'keg' bit.

Which makes me somewhat of a dill.
 
At 36hrs still no sulphur but a little bit of a mess. This is at 18degc as well.

DSC_0292_resize.JPG
 
+1 for crash chilling (when bottling)

my first weizen had way too much yeast in each bottle to fully rouse before pouring into a glass. A couple of days crash chilling helps to lower the amount of yeast going into the bottle, remembering some extra will be made during carbonation. Now I can get all aroused without getting a yeast overload :p
 
Said beer after crash chill and force carb to 3 vol carbonation.
Not the best picture (webcam as i can't be arsed) but still good enough haze.. obvious, as you can't see my face.

No noticable Sulfur after the crash chill and running CO2 through the keg (via beer out post) for about 10 seconds. mild clove aroma and big wheaty breadcrusts quite clean and enjoyable. Nom Nom Nom Nom!

Picture0005.jpg
 
This is what my current batch of Dunkelweizenbock is doing with some slurry of WY3638 harvested from a batch of Hefeweizen.
It's gone totally feral, even though I have strict temperature control on my fermentation fridge.

IMG_0233.jpg


IMG_0234.jpg


IMG_0235.jpg
 
Day 2 of a Weizenbock ferment using a repitch of 200mL of slurry from a weizen brewed with 3068. Feeling a bit left out because it is not even attempting to climb out of the fermenter (17degC), just a nice thick krausen. Was a bit concerned re: the sulfur aroma but this thread has made me feel much better!

On another note these wheat beers are my first foray into extract and bits and I really like the control over hopping.
 
I personally think there's something about 3068.

Last year I used a year old vial I had taken from a smack pack, built it up over a few days (no stir plate), chucked it into a Dunkelweizen and it blew out the airlock in only 24 hours, much like some of the previous pics in this thread. But turned into a great beer, and also took 1st place in the YVB Dunkelweizen comp. There was no issue with the smell at any point though.

I have just done a Roggenbier with a new smack pack, and throughout fermentation it had a bit of an off smell. Letting it sit for a minute or so and the smell was gone.

The beer is in the Keg now (and a few bottles!). Beer from the keg has no smell and tastes fine.

From my experiences with this yeast, it's not like any other I have used. I've only used 4 other Wyeast strains, and pretty much all the Safale strains, but this is far different to them all.
 
Back
Top