2V System sparge or recirc

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tom86

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So I am going to put together my budget 2 vessel system tomorrow just wondering what would be the best (most efficient) and easiest method for mash/sparge. I have a pump, plate chiller, 40L (i think) cooler, 40L kettle and an immersion element (I also have a 19L pot that I was going to use for first runnings for option2).

Option 1 Recirc and mash out no sparge
So just add my full volume (40L) into the kettle, heat to strike temp, add enough water to cooler (mash tun) to cover grains and then recirc and using the immersion element in the kettle to maintain mash temps then once mash is complete use the element to ramp up to mash out temp and recirc for 10 mins then drain back to kettle for boil

option 2 sparge (batch with recirc?)
So add full vol to kettle, add mash vol (20L) to mash tun and leave to mash. once mash is complete drain first runnings to a seperate vessel then add sparge water to mash tun and recirc?

option 3 continuous sparge
As above but drain first runnings slowly then add sparge water slowly and collect into seperate vessel (will prob have to be my fermenter which would be a bit annoying).

Thinking about it, Option 1 seems like the simplest but I am open to any ideas/opinions.
 
Option 1 is certainly the easiest, and you might as well start off as-is.

As a combination of 2 & 3... if you were to heat sparge water in the kettle, and then transfer all the sparge water up to another vessel (ie a 25L esky) situated above the mash vessel, you could then gravity feed for either batch or fly sparge. You would then be able to fill the kettle direct from the mash vessel, eliminating extra transfer steps of the sweet wort.

This would now be a 3v system, albeit a nice simple one where one of the vessels is just a "holding tank".
 
As mofox suggested, I would use your 19L pot to hold your sparge water.

So, use kettle to prepare mash water, underlet this to your mash tun.

While mashing, refill your kettle with the volume of sparge water you need and heat to temperature. Transfer this to your 19L and then you can sparge into your kettle. This is where you'll have logistical headaches, as you need your kettle to maintain/increase mash temps at the same time as you need to be heating your sparge water. So the trade-off for lower $$ outlay is a longer brew day.

I used to have a similar arrangement with a 19L stockpot. I whacked this on my stove so I could independently heat the sparge water while the kettle was doing its thing in the mash.
 
So how exactly is your mash recirculating through your kettle and being heated? Is the plate exchanger submerged?
 
Thanks for the responses, yeah im leaning towards option 1. I do have an extra esky though so I could do what you're saying for option 2/3, im low on ball valves though to be able to control the flow for flysparge.


Adr_0 said:
So how exactly is your mash recirculating through your kettle and being heated? Is the plate exchanger submerged?
Ball valve out of mash tun, into kettle which is set at mash temp, pumped from kettle back to mash tun. So there is ~20L in the kettle and ~20 in the mash tun at any one time. Run like this until mash is complete then ramp up temp and once mashout temp done for 10mins turn off the pump and let it all trickle back down to kettle.

I did think about submerging but didn't want to clog it up and didn't really think it was necessary.
 
tom86 said:
Thanks for the responses, yeah im leaning towards option 1. I do have an extra esky though so I could do what you're saying for option 2/3, im low on ball valves though to be able to control the flow for flysparge.




Ball valve out of mash tun, into kettle which is set at mash temp, pumped from kettle back to mash tun. So there is ~20L in the kettle and ~20 in the mash tun at any one time. Run like this until mash is complete then ramp up temp and once mashout temp done for 10mins turn off the pump and let it all trickle back down to kettle.

I did think about submerging but didn't want to clog it up and didn't really think it was necessary.
That's a pretty good way to do it. You will get better efficiency if you can split this into a sparge as well. There is nothing stopping you using the 19L pot or a 20L cube, with some 1/2" tube, directly into the suction of the pump - with the kettle isolated. Then drain down slowly when you're ready. I do exactly this on my 2V, but have the element on the pump discharge and a ring burner on the kettle.
 
Just to clarify, going from no sparge to one sparge should give you another 5-10%. And you'd get a similar amount, another 5%, if you split the sparge into two lots.

The practicalities of that are that you could heat the 19L up to 80-85, put 10.5 litres into the first sparge, then 2L boiled kettle water into the second lot to make up the volume.

Sorta depends on what efficiency your recipe is designed around. You may get only 50-65% with no sparge, and up into the 80's with two sparges. I would suggest one if you have the room in the mash tun, but two might be more practical if you use more grain for bigger batches.
 
So you have a 40L cooler 40L kettle pump and chiller, job done. GOOGLE 2V Breweasy, that will give you ideas. I'm working with 20L urn for mash tun with false bottom and 40L urn as kettle. Running a pump and immersion chiller. I Average 75% to 80% .
 
Did the brew on friday got about 62% efficiency. How do you get so high? I dont do any ph adjustments only calcium sulphate and calcium chloride. I will plan on a sparge next time i think.
 
I find I get best results running the pump slow us poss, you can get more % from a 90min mash also.
 
Definitely sparge, use bru'n'water to calc your salt additions, and get some acid (hydrochloric, lactic, whatever is most accessible except citric) to adjust ph as well.
 
I use full volume mash no sparge. Recirculation via a little brown pump and made a control box to run everything. QD fittings and 3pc ball valve (tho 2pc if I did it again) and swapped out my silicon hose for loc line for recirculation.
 

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