$25 grain mill motor from bread maker

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BungBrew said:
Sorry to revive a topic which has been quiet for a few weeks, but I scored a $10 sunbeam bread maker at the local salvos and pulled it apart last night. The motor looks different to the one pictured at the start of the tread but the pullies look the same. The only control board I could see only had a tiny capacitor on it (1/3 the size of a box of matches) and the motor had two wires and a ground to the metal casing of the motor.

Is the capacitor really needed? ie can I just hook the motor straight up to 240v?
Your motor could be a 12volt motor. Some of them do have 12 volt motors. So dont go hooking up 240v to it. Post some pictures of the motor and the circuit board.

You can still use a 12volt motor you just have to keep the circuit board intact.
 
contrarian said:
Thanks Truman, I have a mate who's a sparky so will have it checked by a professional to make sure it is all safe. No point mucking about with 240V! Will try to salvage the capacitor and if not possible will be off to the shops. Am also wondering if it would be possible to repurpose a chain cover from a bike to cover the belt and wheel.
How is yours coming along Contrarian?
 
I'll check it out tonight and look for any marking on it.

The motor itself is about the size of a coke can.

I don't recall seeing any transformers etc to supply 12V DC.

I'll post pics tonight.

Thanks guys.
 
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1406625616.818287.jpg
 
Hmm 220V DC .. Guess I might have to look for another bread maker?
 
You can still use that motor. But you would need to use the bridge rectifier on the circuit board that converts the AC current to DC.

Unless you know what your doing or know someone who does then you might be better off just getting another bread maker.
 
A straight out bridge rectifier will give you approx 340v DC,

AC is measured in RMS ( Root Mean Square ), but a rectified voltage is measured at Peak-to-Peak ( or Zero-to-Peak) Value wich is higher than the RMS value

If you like maths then there is some fun stuff here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square
 
I have mine hooked up and running but unfortunately it is not powerful enough to crush the grain. Even when I run it firstand then add a cup to it. I am going to resize the pulley to allow the mill to spin faster and see if that improves it :)
 
Truman said:
How is yours coming along Contrarian?
Haven't done much more, due to the munchkins shed time is at a premium. Will hopefully get a chance on the weekend to move things along.
 
BungBrew said:
Those 4 upright diodes on the right hand side (With grey bands around the top) are your bridge rectifier. Other than the wires that come off the motor what other wires connect to the board and where do they go? I assume the red and blue are your active and nuetral rom your supply and white and black go to your motor. But where do those grey wires go? To the control panel?

If you could bypass that so the motor runs constantly without needing the control buttons then you could just mount the circuit board inside a jiffy box. Can you take some more pics from the top showing where all the wires connect on the board and I will show my dad. its beyond my level of expertise but he did the exact same thing.
 
Just to add you dont need a sarter capacitor with a DC motor. Post some pics and I will send them to dad.
 
Been following this thread for a week or so ... picked up my bread maker and have jumped in.

Can't get the 3 bolts holding the motor to the frame off so I might just incorporate the frame into the design, it makes a good stand:
IMG_90551.jpg IMG_90561.jpg

How would guys recommend I fix the wheel to the mill? I'm thinking to drill a small hold and then slowly and carefully file it out in the shape of the spindle ...
IMG_90571.jpg
 
OK so there are two board, the main board is the one that have the 240V hooked up to it and then the smaller board with the motor connections.

Here is a better photo of the smaller board, it has 5 connectors, earth/GND, MOT - / MOT + & MOT1 / MOT2.

I really wish I had taken a photo while pulling it apart!

I am pretty sure the motor connections went to the GND / MOT - & MOT + connectors.

With the MOT1 and MOT2 connectors I can see one was going to the main board (AC MOT), the other was hooked up to the NEUTRAL 240V.

Tracing the tracks I can see:

MOT - goes to the anodes of D2 & D5 of two diodes.
MOT + goes to the cathodes of the other two diodes D1 & D3.
MOT1 goes to one side (left) of the 275V DAIN film capacitor? and the little transformer looking toroid
MOT2 goes to the other side (right) of the 275V DAIN film capacitor? and the little transformer looking toroid

I do have a multimeter .. do you think I could (safely) have a bash at connecting ACTIVE to MOT1, NEUTRAL to MOT2 and have the EARTH going to the board connector and the motor casing?

If I have 220VDC at the MOT - and MOT + I guess I'm good to go, but would rather open the floor to the idea first!!

photo.JPG
 
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