2 Pot Stovetop Ag With Lauter

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Happy to share. In the recipe db, there's my lord Nelson citra cascading out of this galaxy pale ale.

But truth be told, my house pale is for 25L:

5kg base malt
300g medium or heritage crystal
200g rye or red wheat or just top up with crystal.

US05

American hops to 35 IBU. 15 IBU at 30min, the balance at 10 mins (assuming no chill).

Beermate will do the lifting for you.

My fave hop is Citra but it'll work with any fruity American style hop.
 
Lord Raja Goomba I said:
Happy to share. In the recipe db, there's my lord Nelson citra cascading out of this galaxy pale ale.

But truth be told, my house pale is for 25L:

5kg base malt
300g medium or heritage crystal
200g rye or red wheat or just top up with crystal.

US05

American hops to 35 IBU. 15 IBU at 30min, the balance at 10 mins (assuming no chill).

Beermate will do the lifting for you.

My fave hop is Citra but it'll work with any fruity American style hop.
Awesome thankyou very much! I'll check it out!
 
Okay dokay, I thought I'd whack a new picture post up with some new details.

In other posts I've mentioned that I've squeezed a fair bit of wort out of my method.

Yesterday I embarked (probably stupidly) on a big brewday - with the purpose of getting 30L of 1.090 beer, which would then form the basis of two separate high gravity beers.

Again, this isn't a 'how to' for this, but more an example of utilising what is at hand and a bit of problem solving to get wort out the other end.

First problem that needed to be dealt with is my esky's 38L limitation and 10kg of base grain. 2nd problem attached to that, is that I can't obviously use the same spec malts in the two different beers.

So onto problem solving.

20140706_133445.jpg


10kg of grain. Remember that I don't have a mill in this case (I'll get one once we have a more permanent home), so a food processor does the job. Note that there is a 20L food grade bucket. This was being used for grain storage, but as my grain supplies have gone down, I've been able to consolidate into my large storage containers (the grain in this was in a grain-bag). This bucket will serve two purposes as you shall see.

20140706_134322.jpg


Mashed in the base grain using Maxi BIAB principle. The ratio was 2.3:1. Now I overcooked the 2nd pot on the stove (remember I use two pots to get strike temp up). If I didn't get the entire amount in (I'd banked on 2.4:1), then I could adjust the mash temp up or down using the last bit of water (cold or hot). As it stood, I hit the healty 63.5 degrees, which is what I wanted.

As it was mashing in, I pulverised the two lots of spec malts. These malts only need steeping, not mashing, though I did use 67 degrees as my sparge temp.

20140706_140745-EFFECTS.jpg


Thank you google auto-awesome

20140706_140749.jpg


As you can see, these are significantly different specs for significantly different beers. 9L buckets are the staple of any household and brewery.
 
20140706_134544.jpg
20140706_152612.jpg


Sparge water on stove. More sparge water is needed because of the lower water:grain ratio. My kettle boils at a healthy 81 degrees, and is used for 'extra' sparge water.

Lautering. The BIAB there is because I will end up with a stuck sparge because of the pulverised grain. Recognise the 20L bucket?

20140706_151902.jpg


After sparging (which is done in a somewhat staggered stage and fills up the 20L bucket and then my first empty pot), I divide the 2nd wort runnings (you could gyle this) into the 2 pots evenly, and then the 20L bucket runnings into the two pots evenly. Both pots went onto the stove to ramp up.

Then I separate the spec grains from their steeped water, and run a kettle through each of them:

20140706_160906.jpg



20140706_162715.jpg


Once the pots on the stove had boiled down to the right level, each of the steeped grain waters were added (one to each pot, because each pot has the wort for each of the different brews - look at the pic below, you'll see the different brews), and then brought up to boil. Once boiling, I started the 60 minutes and added the 60 minute hop additions.

2014-07-06+20.20.57.jpg


The rest is the beer you know and love well.

Edit:

Being a mod, I don't have time limits on editing posts, so I can tuck this in without bumping the thread.

The above beers/method of doing two high grav beers at the same time netted a Gold for one and a Bronze for the other in the state home brewing championships. Independent proof that dodgy ghetto equipment (and some problem solving) really does produce good beers. One of these beers is now headed for the Nationals.
 
Thanks for the continuing info Goomba. I'm going to give your two pot AG method another shot next Monday (my first attempt actually tastes pretty good despite the issues I had in brewing it). Would you mind going into a bit more detail on how exactly do you go about sparging?

I've been reading up on batch sparging and have an idea of the method but wanted to run it past a more experienced head than mine.

Couldn't you use the lauter buckets to completely drain the wort away from the primary mash until basically dry. Then return the drained grain to the mash esky, add the sparge water and mix gently but thoroughly before repeating the lautering process again?

Such as is done in (just after the 2 minute mark).

It seems far simpler than trying fly sparging with a big pot of hot water, a jug and a colander as I tried before, maybe too easy? Am I overlooking a problem with this method when used with your two pot AG brewing style?

Cheers,
Meno
 
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I had missed this brewday update until now- good one Goomba, very ingenious and great work! :beerbang:
There's a lot to be said for reserving the last few L of water going into the mash, then adjusting with hot, cold or reserved and hitting the step temperature bang on every time.
 
menoetes said:
Thanks for the continuing info Goomba. I'm going to give your two pot AG method another shot next Monday (my first attempt actually tastes pretty good despite the issues I had in brewing it). Would you mind going into a bit more detail on how exactly do you go about sparging?

I've been reading up on batch sparging and have an idea of the method but wanted to run it past a more experienced head than mine.

Couldn't you use the lauter buckets to completely drain the wort away from the primary mash until basically dry. Then return the drained grain to the mash esky, add the sparge water and mix gently but thoroughly before repeating the lautering process again?

Such as is done in (just after the 2 minute mark).

It seems far simpler than trying fly sparging with a big pot of hot water, a jug and a colander as I tried before, maybe too easy? Am I overlooking a problem with this method when used with your two pot AG brewing style?

Cheers,
Meno

Sounds like an excellent idea - nothing stopping you for doing that. The difference will be that you will need to re-transfer the grain back in and re-bed it. An advantage is obviously batching it.

You could also then do 'top up' fly sparging if you really wanted to.


RdeVjun said:
I had missed this brewday update until now- good one Goomba, very ingenious and great work! :beerbang:
There's a lot to be said for reserving the last few L of water going into the mash, then adjusting with hot, cold or reserved and hitting the step temperature bang on every time.
Thanks mate, means a great deal coming from you.
 
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I gave this method another shot yesterday and I think I went much better this time.

I found lining the the lauter bucket with a BIAB mesh grain bag really helped, it acted as another filter and when the runnings slowed down to a drip I could lift the bag partially out of the bucket and let it gravity drain to get the last of the wort out of it efficiently.

Batch sparging worked out well, it was a lot easier for me than fly sparging with a jug and colander. I just drained the grains in the lauter buckets (and bag) and then returned them to the esky, added the hot sparge water, stirred well and left for 10 minutes before repeating the draining process. Lautering in two smaller batched rather than one massive one really helped too.

I got my temp control better in hand too with new thermometers and wrapping the esky in a doona to help insulation. I barely lost 1.5'c over the hour this time and kept the temp in the 67 - 69'c range, just a smidge higher than I wanted but I'm not overly worried about that.

It certainly took less work than my first attempt though it was still a 5.5 hour day. I blame my electric stove top, it really struggled to get the larger volumes of water and wort up to the desired temperatures. Admittedly most of the time was me watching tv or surfing the web while waiting for stuff to finish. It was far more relaxed this time and I don't feel nearly so bad about it.

No boil overs, major spills or anything. The worst thing that happened to me all day was when I clocked myself in the face with the esky lid. Not bad on the whole...

I think I got my efficiency up to 65% as well, at least a 5% rise on last time. I turned 5.5kg of Maris Otter grain into 25 litres of wort with an OG of 1.047, slightly higher than the 1.045 I was aiming for (so there's a bonus). We'll see how it comes out in the end.
 
One of the disadvantages with this method is that you're really at the mercy to the stovetop you have (but of course, it's cheaper than gas).

I've had a place of mine get the pots up to boil in 15 minutes easily (less if less wort) and maintain an excellent rolling boil. Others have struggled to do it in 30 mins.

Slightly OT - but I have my Tasmanian Version of the 2 pots with lauter for giveaway here.
 
One of the disadvantages with this method is that you're really at the mercy to the stovetop you have /quote]

I got banished from the kitchen, 1 pot is heated by a Portable induction cooker, and the other has a $12 corded kettle element installed from woolworths.

Full electric, the element kettle serves as a HLT also as it has a ball valve and can work with and stc-1000.
 
Tahoose said:
One of the disadvantages with this method is that you're really at the mercy to the stovetop you have /quote]

I got banished from the kitchen, 1 pot is heated by a Portable induction cooker, and the other has a $12 corded kettle element installed from woolworths.

Full electric, the element kettle serves as a HLT also as it has a ball valve and can work with and stc-1000.
Good job, Tahoose.

The other advantage is that if you aren't banned from the kitchen, it is apartment/small space friendly and doesn't require you to grab extra heating equipment. Though I do like your portable induction cooker idea, how does it do?

I've got to move house, and would like to take this outside, without going down the gas route, if possible.
 
Check this link,

http://m.crazysales.com.au/online-maxkon-2000w-portable-induction-cooktop-62475.html

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=390480577950

I think it was pickaxe who got me onto this somewhere in this thread. He uses two of them and uses this method to brew in an apartment.

If you run two of them I'd run them from seperate circuits.

Run them on the "cake setting" for most power to the pot. The other settings also run on a timer which isn't what you want when you need a longist boil.

Work with big w 19ltr pots

No need for any DIY action by the unconfident/unskilled.

I got mine for $35 brand new.. Bargain..

Full electric, no running out of gas. And if the power fails oh well you probably weren't supposed to brew that day so have a beer.
 
I forgot to mention, it doesn't get a vigorous boil, but it boils and I haven't had any issues with my beer.

And I'd say the induction cooker is BIAB friendly.

The pot with the element isn't really BIAB friendly.
 
So had a random though earlier on which is sort of inspired by the 10 IPA thread..

So pretty much the main thing that this process has consistently between us all, is that we use 2 pots for the boil.

Now this can be great for making 2 different beers from the same grain bill, but I'm assuming that 7 times out of 10 we all make a full sized batch, 23-24 Ltrs...

Normally I'd split my hops evenly between the two pots for the various additions.

So I was thinking; next brew day, once I have started recirculating and have one pot full ill get that to the boil and add my full bittering addition.

Then when I have filled pot number 2, I'll get that to the boil and do a 10 min boil. Then combine both pots in the no chill cube.

Pot 1 will be high gravity, with just bittering addition. Pot 2 will be low gravity with flavour/aroma, or no addition and a cube hop.

I reckon this should knock about 45 mins off my brew day..

I'll only do this with grain bills using predominately ale malts, not pils malts..

Thoughts??
 
Any idea how effective those portable induction cookers are Tahoose?

The grain dust from my AG brewing makes SWMBO's hayfever act up something awful so I don't think I'm far from being banished from the kitchen too.

Being able to brew under the house on portable cooktops would be useful (and more merciful to her) and if they can bring 15lts of wort to the boil in under 40min, they'll be doing better than my glass stovetop.
 
I'm not really sure how long it would take.. Next brew day I'll take a note of starting temp and how long it takes to reach the boil.

I tend to start heat this pot before the one with the element, as the one with the element has some balls.

The cheaper option is the kettle element, has more power. But requires modifying..

If your no good with tools, the induction stove is a good option. No DIY required.
 
I tried this method on the weekend and it is great for entry-level all grain for people with limited equipment and budget.

Big thanks to LRG for posting this!

I had all the normal mistakes of a first all grain: messed up my water volumes (I cant count and talk to a mate at the same time apparantly) and had to resort to a really ghetto 3 pot method - I thought an old stock pot I had was 15L but its only 9! Back to BigW for another 19L pot for next time!

But even with my mistakes, the process is really easy and the lauter works well.

I only got ~65% efficiency due to outragous evaporation and finished with a 16.5L wort which I topped up to 20L for a final SG of 1.043 (Dr.Smurto's Golder Ale)

Will definately give this another shot once I have a spare FV :D
 
This warms the cockles of my heart on a warm spring's morning in Tassie, that I'm spending indoors at work.

Good on you TheBlackAdder - had a Baldric of a time and still made some wort at the end.

65% is good - I reckon my first AG (not this method) was closer to 50%, and now I get anywhere between 75-85%, depending on how lazy I feel on the day.

Spare FV - go to bunnings, buy water container and taps. Cheap as.
 
Any ideas on how much pre boil volume is safe in a big w 19ltr pot boiling dme without a boil over on the kitchen stove?
Im planning a small volume partial, full volume boil brew and want to avoid a foamy boil over.
good thread lrg.
 

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