Worms - Bucket

[MarkBastard]

Bags are annoying though

 

[Steve@PMF82]

hey how about a BIAB bag made with the regular swiss voille for a bottom, and double thickness bed sheets or whatever for the sides - to encourage path of least resistance to be downward through the grain bed?


sim

would be interesting to see what difference this would make?

These should do the trick for the sides.... http://www.amazon.com/Thread-Count-Egyptia...C/dp/B0019WAD00

 

[matho]

this is a scan from dave line's book brewing beers like those you buy, not trying to piss on anyone, it was just the talk about a bag with impervious sides that jogged my memory

View attachment Scanned_Document.pdf

cheers matho

 

[QldKev]

Bribie, you mean something about this size? Perhaps a little bigger?

more like this?

 

[Steve@PMF82]

this is a scan from dave line's book brewing beers like those you buy, not trying to piss on anyone, it was just the talk about a bag with impervious sides that jogged my memory

View attachment 49201

cheers matho

Hmm ive got some old pillow cases that are almost like canvas, very very thick.
Might have to get the wenches sewing machine out and have a muck around. :unsure:

 

[matho]

:icon_offtopic:
yeah the book was first printed in 1978, there was no way back then a man could sew

my apologies too nala for the off topic

cheers matho

 

[Feldon]

Regarding the coffee plunger idea. Been contemplating this over recent weeks too. For what its worth here's what I've thought about so far...

Use a stainless steel Big W 19L pot (cost about $20, less on special) for the outer pot. For the inner pot (viz malt pipe, but here its a malt pot) use its little sister (the next pot size down, I forget the literage, costs about $12 or so). This smaller pot fits exactly inside the 19L pot, but you might have to crush in the tubular handles a little to make fit with a room to move freely (suggest using a woodworker's clamp and two pieces of wood to do this so as to make a neat job of compressing the handles. Don't savage the handles with vise grips like I did - made an ugly mess of it)

The handles on the inner malt pot ensure it centres nicely within the 19L outer pot. To elevate it above the bottom of the outer pot, make a rack by bending a length of stainless, brass of aluminium rod or wire into a three-legged stand The same sort of thing that comes with some kitchen pressure cookers to keep the meat basket above the base. (simple cheap device and three points is more inherantly stable than a four-legged cake rack).

Need to fabricate the equivalent of two coffee plunger-type filters discs (Not there yet - any ideas? - thick plastic chopping board with hols cut to mimic real coffee plunger design came to mind, but not sure if food safe). The malt grain would sit between these two discs inside the inner pot.

Instead of a metal plunger rod screwing into middle of the filter disc, as in a coffee plunger, my thinking is to bore a 7/8 inch hole there to take a length of 1/2 inch (internal diameter) brass pipe threaded on the outside (seen these at Bunnings for about $15(?)- looked like about 8 inches long which should be OK). The brass pipe would go through the centre of the two fabricated filter discs sitting inside the inner malt pot - one disc near the bottom and the other higher up with the grain bill inbetween. The filter mesh and the brass pipe would be fastened together with nuts (and washers) engaging the threaded outer surface of the 1/2 inch brass pipe.

My cheap little brown 12V pump (the highest power one (ha!) - about $25 from the www.solarproject.co.uk) would pump wort from a ball valve at the bottom of the 19L outer pot to the top of the brass pipe. The wort would flow down into the small chamber created at the bottom of the inner pot - ie. the space between the bottom of the inner pot and the bottom of the lower filter disc. The wort would flow up through the lower filter disc, up through the grain, through the upper filter disc, and overflow in ever increasing sugary sweetness into the outer pot, and recirculate etc. etc

If in the early stages of mashing flour and grit tended to block up the lower filter and prevent the little brown pump from forcing the wort through, I'd grab hold of the top of the brass pipe and plunge the two filters it up and down a few times (like a coffee plunger!) to get things going. I'd also do this if at any time the flow through the mash looked like chanelling, or just to mix things up a bit.

Anyway, my 2c. Sorry no pics of a sketch (at work at mo). Hope all that made sense.

 

[kymba]

this is a scan from dave line's book brewing beers like those you buy, not trying to piss on anyone, it was just the talk about a bag with impervious sides that jogged my memory

View attachment 49201

cheers matho

reminds me of a sea anchor or a camp shower bucket

 

[Bribie G]

Aha, dead right - I was racking my brains yesterday to think what it reminded me of... camp shower it is. However it could get a bit manky and hard to clean.

 

[Robbo2234]

I have an idea,

Instead of having a grain bed stuck in the bottom of a bucket why not have it in suspended water column?
If you used a strong enough pump you could keep all the grain spinning around in the water column, there for there is no path of least resistance.
After the pump has been turned off the grain would settle and then the pail can be removed.

Or should I of just lay off the beers?

 

[NickB]

Brew in a Whirlpool? Interesting!

 

[MarkBastard]

I always thought the french press would work better in reverse.

Picture an urn with a sort of malt pipe that was like a french press, but instead of pushing down to compact the grain onto the bottom you pulled up to compress the grain against the lid of the urn. This would be to squeeze the liquid out.

Then I was thinking if you had compressed grain and ran liquid through it would it still act like a filter? If so the top of the lid could be spraying recirculated wort through the compacted grain bed.

Although I like the idea of just having an inorganic mash filter and just throwing the grain away once fully squeezed. Would love to be able to filter the wort before and after the boil somehow.

 

[stux]

I have an idea,

Instead of having a grain bed stuck in the bottom of a bucket why not have it in suspended water column?
If you used a strong enough pump you could keep all the grain spinning around in the water column, there for there is no path of least resistance.
After the pump has been turned off the grain would settle and then the pail can be removed.

Or should I of just lay off the beers?

Would love to see that...

Brew In A Washing Machine

 

[stux]

Would love to see that...

Brew In A Washing Machine

Wow, talk about Synchronicity



http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=828632

 

[Bribie G]

I'll continue this on Nala's thread

OK it's on, just doughed into my ghetto Woolies strainer malt pipe. I'd have to say that it went against every BIAB nerve in my body



Hit 66 spot on, will report as I go, interested in the clarity after recirculation

 

[pk.sax]

Michael, have you tried just drilling the bottom of the bucket itself a bit finely and trying to recirculate and let a natural grain bed form rather than put in an extra metal mesh?

Except for channeling against the walls of the Pail, I think you might just get the advantages of a 3G mash run with manifold happening in a solid bucket without anything extra having to be used.

In fact, if you could be bothered cutting out the bottom of a pail - leaving a bit of a lip - and fixing a splash guard screen in there, that might give you bag standard flow, sitting on top of that trivet. Less things to clean eh?

 

[Bribie G]

I've bought a couple more buckets at Masters and will indeed do the hundred hole thingo and try it out with my next brew. Only have $6.75 to lose.


Ok, recirculating with jug, and not crystal but acceptable IMHO




And now the ultimate heresy which will surely get me banned for all time:



The BribiePressinartor mk 2 with a full handy pail
fck yeah

 

[stux]

Next time put the rack on top of your urn

 

[Bribie G]

Hmm. leaning tower of death methinks

Ok, checked her out this morning and final washup was bang on 75% efficiency which is what I've been getting with standard BIAB. I didn't frig around with a sparge or anything, just simple isothermal infusion with a ramp to mashout temp whilst recirculating. Ive ended up only losing about half a litre to trub. I'll get a pump to try it out, but as it stands at the moment it's given me what I want: reasonable efficiency, brew day as quick as BIAB and excellent wort yield. Cleanup is about the same. In fact the "press" only gave me about half a litre if that, the system is freer draining than a voile bag.

I'm sold.

Ex BIAB now, but would certainly recommend BIAB to any newcomer to get the hang of the system first. :icon_cheers:

 

[MarkBastard]

Nice. If your squeeze only gave 500ml of wort you could easily just do a single kettle sparge and go even better.

1.7L of kettle water plus 300ml to top up to 2L of water at what I'm guessing would be the right temperature by the time you put it in. Let that drain through instead of squeezing. Too easy.