Whirlfloc.. and what then?

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Thanks Mark
But my comment was a general (and to an extent self deprecating) observation about the complexities of cold break, the first and obvious being a definition of cold break, equally so the difficulty of long distance diagnosis of problems with little or confused base data.

K
 
Morrie said:
Thanks for the great explanation Ducatiboy stu, now Polyvinylpolypyrolidone sounds like some really seriously harmful chemical?
Why, because it has a long sciencey sounding name?
 
I am thinking with still using whirlfloc and maybe a long boil... I might get the clear beer Im seeking. But still don't want to go down the path of secondary fermentation. Im
not convinced that is worth the risk of infection.
 
manticle said:
Different things.
Yep... Just weighing up all things that make clear beer... I know its not a big thing. Also going to look at how long I leave the wort after chilling in the kettle. I think I move it too quickly to fermenter and don't let it settle.
 
blink471 said:
Yep... Just weighing up all things that make clear beer... I know its not a big thing. Also going to look at how long I leave the wort after chilling in the kettle. I think I move it too quickly to fermenter and don't let it settle.
Sure, if you're picking up trub from the bottom of the kettle you're introducing sediment, however I'm not sure that will make any significant difference to the clarity of your beers if you cold crash after primary fermentation.

Source: I do not use finings. I no-chill in a cube. I do not filter. I get crystal clear ales* simply by cold crashing the primary FV for at least a few days prior to kegging / bottling.
*I don't want to start anything but can say that this method also worked when I dared brew a lager
 
blink471 said:
Yep... Just weighing up all things that make clear beer... I know its not a big thing. Also going to look at how long I leave the wort after chilling in the kettle. I think I move it too quickly to fermenter and don't let it settle.
I some times left it up to an hour after it chilled, just kept the lid on

Longer you let it sit, the more trub will settle
 
Clarity of wort is not so much about clarity of final beer (although various proteins can contribute to hazes) as about the interaction of yeast with those proteins and other compounds (lipids, etc) and potentially affect flavour, stability and head retention.


However, I have suggested before, many times that clarity is not just cosmetic.

That something in suspension (yeast or whatever) can still taste like something.
 
Ducatiboy stu said:
I some times left it up to an hour after it chilled, just kept the lid on

Longer you let it sit, the more trub will settle
Ok. that is what I was going to do... but always thought you had to be quick to start fermenting to reduce the chance of infection. So I did hurry that stage. Or is ok once it is chilled by chiller..?
Is the chance of infection only when it is boiling hot and it is left to cool slowly?

Thanks everyone this advice is great.
 
Infection is more likely between around 5 and 65ish (somewhat bug and environment dependent too, temperature range a very loose guide).

I cover my kettle post boil, let settle for 20 minutes, whirlpool and settle another 20 mins then run into cube. Measured wort temp (some environmental variation of course) is around 80 degrees and having been boiled upwards of 90 mins, it's very unlikely anything new will get a chance to take hold at such temperatures.

I have left covered wort overnight (occasional excess I reserve for starters, etc. Again environment dependent and I'd recommend a good seal - glad wrap is a possibility) and if you keep air and dust out, you will generally get good results.


Short version is that taking appropriate precautions and leaving wort to settle can benefit your beer in the form of trub removal.
 
Yep. As long as you try to avoid any sort of contamination post boil you should be right
 

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