Whats In The Glass

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
English IPA, no weddings, birthdays or other celebratory occasions, so just an IPA.
IMG_6171.JPG


IMG_6173.JPG
 
On my Coopers Sparkling clone this evening. Is it in the ball park of the Coopers? Well carbonation not bad and colour not bad taste nothing like it. The yeast is important for this brew.

IMG_0111 - Copy.JPG
 
Best bitter 13 days in the bottle, clearing nicely, good head and lacing, very enjoyable.

Hoping this is a response- that looks and i assume tastes great. I have just has a go at a ‘Bitter’. I have a way to go. Taste - OK, but flat, lifeless and no head retention like yours.
IMG_4520.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4520.jpeg
    IMG_4520.jpeg
    2.5 MB · Views: 0
I don't know how much dextrin malt improves the foam and head retention, I use a couple of hundred gram of carapils. Now I use it because that it is what it is supposed to do. So its a bit like a security blanket. Same with bread improver, does it make that much difference when baking bread?
Using the usual programs like Brewers Fiend does throw hop additions to the low side, and hops do help with foam.
Cold crash/condition your beer to clear it quickly, personal choice whether to use a clearing agent, also be careful using the carbonation calculator while it is fairly close I have found that a couple of extra grams of priming sugar works better than the priming calculator predicts.
 
Cold crash/condition your beer to clear it quickly, personal choice whether to use a clearing agent, also be careful using the carbonation calculator while it is fairly close I have found that a couple of extra grams of priming sugar works better than the priming calculator predicts.

I use dextrose to carbonate, but the dextrose I use (as most do) is dextrose monohydrate which is about 9% water. So if the calculator suggests 200g, I use 220g to achieve the correct carbonation.

Maybe you (or anyone) can help me with this:
The calculators ask for a temperature of the beer. If you cold crash well after fermentation has finished, then surely the temp that you should enter is closer to the higher temp at the end of fermentation. I would assume that very little Co2 is absorbed if the cold crash occurs less than 24hrs before bottling.
Am I wrong?
 
I use dextrose to carbonate, but the dextrose I use (as most do) is dextrose monohydrate which is about 9% water. So if the calculator suggests 200g, I use 220g to achieve the correct carbonation.

Maybe you (or anyone) can help me with this:
The calculators ask for a temperature of the beer. If you cold crash well after fermentation has finished, then surely the temp that you should enter is closer to the higher temp at the end of fermentation. I would assume that very little Co2 is absorbed if the cold crash occurs less than 24hrs before bottling.
Am I wrong?
A can of worms, I have tried both ways using the temperature of the beer at end of fermentation and the temperature of the beer coming out of cold crash. The temperature of the beer coming out of cold crash works best for me. I add the extra few grams of priming sugar for a few reasons. Using a bottling bucket and bulk priming the temperature will rise though only slightly, the beer going into a ambient temperature bottles will lose some CO2, stirring the sugar solution in the bottling bucket would probably drive out some CO2 as well. Just trial and error for what works best.
 
A can of worms, I have tried both ways using the temperature of the beer at end of fermentation and the temperature of the beer coming out of cold crash. The temperature of the beer coming out of cold crash works best for me. I add the extra few grams of priming sugar for a few reasons. Using a bottling bucket and bulk priming the temperature will rise though only slightly, the beer going into a ambient temperature bottles will lose some CO2, stirring the sugar solution in the bottling bucket would probably drive out some CO2 as well. Just trial and error for what works best.
What works best for me is not to cold crash in the fermenter. I may be wrong, but I think that the cold crash can occur after the bottles have been primed at fermentation temp for a week.
I bottle directly from the fermenter into bottles that are individually dosed with priming sugar solution according to my own priming solution calculator (more than happy to share if I only knew how).
primer.jpg

I had never really thought about how the temp difference affects the Co2 exchange!
Bottles are then placed directly into temp control at ferment temp until cold crashing in the fridge.
 
What works best for me is not to cold crash in the fermenter. I may be wrong, but I think that the cold crash can occur after the bottles have been primed at fermentation temp for a week.
I bottle directly from the fermenter into bottles that are individually dosed with priming sugar solution according to my own priming solution calculator (more than happy to share if I only knew how).
View attachment 123686
I had never really thought about how the temp difference affects the Co2 exchange!
Bottles are then placed directly into temp control at ferment temp until cold crashing in the fridge.
I use this calculator, it is the same as Brau Kaiser so I think Kai had maybe lifted it from here.
https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/en...brewing-tools/bottle-conditioning-calculator/
 
What works best for me is not to cold crash in the fermenter. I may be wrong, but I think that the cold crash can occur after the bottles have been primed at fermentation temp for a week.
I bottle directly from the fermenter into bottles that are individually dosed with priming sugar solution according to my own priming solution calculator (more than happy to share if I only knew how).
View attachment 123686
I had never really thought about how the temp difference affects the Co2 exchange!
Bottles are then placed directly into temp control at ferment temp until cold crashing in the fridge.
I think you are missing the point of cold crashing. Cold crashing at approx -0.1C is to allow suspended yeast and other things to settle to the bottom of the fermenter prior to bottling or kegging.
If Cc in the fermenter don’t worry, there will still be enough yeast to carbonate your beer if priming and bottling and raising temp to a level the yeast can work at. Cold crashing in the bottle will only serves to drop the suspended material to the bottom of the bottle. Either way, do what works for you.
 
I think you are missing the point of cold crashing. Cold crashing at approx -0.1C is to allow suspended yeast and other things to settle to the bottom of the fermenter prior to bottling or kegging.
If Cc in the fermenter don’t worry, there will still be enough yeast to carbonate your beer if priming and bottling and raising temp to a level the yeast can work at. Cold crashing in the bottle will only serves to drop the suspended material to the bottom of the bottle. Either way, do what works for you.
Thanks for the input Vic, I understand.
I have other concerns, comments and and questions but I won't continue to hijack this thread.
 
Bitter is better! The best bitter I had post 9027 conditioned nicely, the bubbles of the foam are now finer, still a nice lacing and getting clearer. 22 days in the bottle.

IMG_0158.JPG

IMG_0161.JPG
 

Latest posts

Back
Top