Malted
Humdinger
- Joined
- 15/5/10
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What I have now done is pulled all the gust out of my old corded drill, so all that remains are the stator, gearbox and chuck and casing.
I then screwed the drill case to a few bits of mdf to get the old drill chuck to the same height as the mill driveshaft.
Attached the chuck (old drill) to the mill, then drive the end of the stator with my new drill. the new drill does not raise a sweat at all and a very slow crush speed (as the new drill is effectively driving a 10:1 gearbox)
In low range, the new drill rpm is 1000 no load, so I crush at 100rpm, there is hardly any husk damage.
Not the neatest solution - actually very ugly, but oh, so effective. and will do until late august!
Would show pics, but a bit embarrassing atm, will clean it up and post pics!
I'm going to order a monstermill tomorrow, unless there is a better option
Keep in mind that i have not used the mashmaster mini mill that i ordered this week yet, but the thing that i like about the mashmaster is the simplicity with adjusting the mill settings.
From what i can gather, different grains depending on where they are from - typically England, Europe, USA, or Aussie maltsters, the grain size can differ within the same "type" of grain. ie: an English ale grain kernel could quite easily be a different size grain to an australian ale grain, or usa ale grain....
I have (soon to be sold) a Crankandstein (spelling?) 2 roller mill. It's based very closely (almost identical) to the monster mills. Didn't the guy who started Crank use to work for monster mill???
IT'S A FANTASTIC MILL.
I have no complaints about using it to crush my grain. However, the single most thing that got me over the line to buy the mashmaster was that you undo a lock screw, change "setting" on the side of the mill, then lock the lock screw again and your good to go with a different gap setting if required. To me, the ability to chase consistency from one batch of grain to the next, is important for my personal journey through brewing.
To change the gap setting on the Crank, you have to disassemble the mill. Remove the idle roller, remove the brass eccentric bushing, change it's position in the mill chasis, and then reassemble the mill. Check your results, and maybe repeat the process until your happy with the crush consistency.
If you only use one type of grain, or a specific manufacturer, this is fine. In most cases actually, this is fine and more than acceptable. But i personally would love the opportunity to be able to change gap settings and test resulting brews really quickly and easily.
I have a feeling that most of the monster mills are probably adjusted in a similar fashion to the cranky's....
As i said, i haven't received the mill yet, (only ordered it yesterday) but i'm expecting a top notch mill, and i feel that Ross's price on this mill for the end of the month apparently is a pretty good deal for me...
No affiliation....just excited to get my mill hopefully in the next day or two.
All i need to do now is sort out a motor setup for it.
Nath
Aaaah, thanks for that mate.
Happy to stand corrected, as i don't want to tarnish the name of a reputable company with incorrect information.
My 1st mill is the Mashmaster Mini. Did my 1st crush last night (BB ale malt) based on the credit card gap theory. Came out too fine so I dialled it back one mark. Initially the marks didn't line up (one roller different to the other) but a few winds of the dials got them to line up. The stock it's made from isn't finished at all, but a polished mill would get knocked around pretty quick anyway. Tightening the gap set screws does seem to tighten up the rollers a bit. I like the nice mechanical whirr from the geared rollers though.
CrankandStein 2D
303 Stainless Steel rollers for the 2S, 2A, and 2D
1/2" Driveshaft
+ Hopper & Base
Shipped for USD 264.50, which should end up ~240-245 AUD
Ordered
IIRC I remember seeing some comments saying that the monstermill hopper fits in the box along with a monstermill, so you don't have to pay any extra shipping. I have a crankandstein 2d though so don't quote me on that.practicalfool said:Cancelled the dam hopper!!! They emailed back saying the hopper will cost 40 bucks extra to post!!!! Wow. Oh well, back to the drawing board to make one here
BTW both the monstermill and crankandstein mills are all grain engaged on the non-driven wheel. The description for the 2d model says "grain engaged gear teeth", the gear won't turn the non driven roller by itself. It doesn't seem to be a problem for people that own them though.Now, I see from descriptions that the Crankandstein 2D and the Mashmaster are gear driven.
IIRC I remember seeing some comments saying that the monstermill hopper fits in the box along with a monstermill, so you don't have to pay any extra shipping. I have a crankandstein 2d though so don't quote me on that.
I'm just about to order one I think, how much was it in total? And how long did it take to arriveCorrect. I've just received my MM2 with base and hopper. All in one flat-rate shipping box. I'm glad I bought the base and hopper - nicely made and will save me quite a bit of time knocking up my own.
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