Want To Buy A Grain Mill...

[lastdrinks]

My old 18v Ryobi could crush about 15kg from 1 battery.

But the electric motor is soo much easier.

QldKev

My Ryobi is fairly new so i am guessing yours is an older model back when they made them better.

 

[Hammo7]

Question re driving a mill with a drill.

What power should i be looking at?

Found a few drills (corded) for less than $100 new that have 550 or 710W.

My 24V cordless Dick Smith drill is rubbish when it coms to driving the MM2, possibly due to a very small gap (need to buy some feeler guages to check it) and crushing large amounts of rye to near dust so i want something with the balls to do the job and not requiring recharging every 100g or so.

I'm guessing my drill is seriously lacking in torque even though i am using it on it's highest torque setting.

Hey Mate.
I got the ozito 1150w 2 speed corded hammer drill from Bunnings. It rips through the grain on my mm3-2.0 at a gap of .038". But it really struggles with raw wheat, so I'd assume rye would be similar.

My advice would be to get a motor similar to the one than motiondynamics are selling (sorry, no link - on iPhone), and get someone local to help you set it during a brewday.
If I was closer, I'd put my hand up to help you out! My thanks to you for the golden ale recipe!!

 

[Malted]

Have you tried crushing rye on a gap small enough to turn it to flour? :lol: :icon_drool2:

It takes all my strength just to hang on to the drill as it starts and once it got away from me and sent the mill and hopper full of grain flying and showered me in rye (mmmmm, rye shower).

It could be that i am plain retarded (and that's a definite possibility) but i suspect i am asking too much of my drill when it comes to the torque required to get the mill started with a hopper full of grain. Draining a fully charged battery in 20 seconds also tells me i am asking a lot if it. When using it for it's designed purpose - drilling holes in walls etc it lasts ages.

Do you really have to crush it super fine in one pass?

Have you tried a larger gap with running the rye through the mill several times? It may take longer but could be easier on everything? Instead of straining the drill and draining the battery quickly, maybe a little less pressure on it and the battery will hold up longer? Try setting the roller gap to the thickness of a credit card since you don't have feeler guages.

For example: I seem to be able to get a progressively finer crush by multiple millings, less damage to the husks this way too. Wheat really bogs down for me and will stall my motor so I trickle a bit through and after it has had one crush I can just chuck the whole lot in.

What sort of hopper do you have Smurts? Maybe you could put something in it to restrict the amount that gets through first time around? Buzz it through slowly with the credit card gap, then just buzz it all through however many times you think is neccessary for the crush you want?

 

[Deebo]

My Ryobi is fairly new so i am guessing yours is an older model back when they made them better.

I just ran my first 5kg of grain through the monster mill 2 with my 18v ryobi (not that old, maybe 4 months?) and had no problems (I ran it through twice as I noticed a few whole looking grains on the first run).
Had 2 batteries charged just in case but didnt need the other one.

Would like to get a motor one day but not sure what I need to connect the electric motor posted in another thread connected to the monster mill 2

 

[stux]

I ran 12 KG of 50% wheat malt through my mm2 with a ryobi 18V.

It burnt the drill out

No shit, it was smoking. Now I needed a new ryobi AND a better solution to run the MM

 

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You are here View Product (TTD800D)


TTD800D TRADETOOLS DIRECT 13MM CHUCK ENGINEERS DRILL

An industrial duty low speed 13mm engineers drill from the same factory that makes our highly successful jackhammer range. Has a low speed range of 0-600rpm making it ideal for most larger steel drilling & mixing applications. These drills have extremely high torque & are fitted with a variable speed reversing trigger. It is worth noting that these drills have a solid steel gearbox assembly - not as common as you might think in machines of this type!
Trade Price:

$98.00 Including GST



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• 13mm Heavy Duty Keyed Chuck
• Big 800 Watt Motor
• 0-600Rpm Variable Speed Reverse
• Moulded Carry Case
• A TradeTools Direct Exclusive
• Weight 2.7Kgs

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ABN: 67 010 700 053

 

[argon]

Check out the roller, it should spin very freely. I used to use a drill to run my mill, but in low range it was a 0-350rpm unit. Funny thing is ever since I've had the mill it has only ever slipped once. It happened to be when a mate was crushing his crain for the first time on it. That was over a year ago and it has never done it since.

QldKev

Sorted out the mill yesterday... the free roller was certainly not moving as freely as it could. Bits of crushed grain had been getting stuck between the roller and the mill body as i was crushing. So i just made the mounting holes on the mdf board i use for the hopper a little longer... like slotted holes so i could adjust how close the body was to the roller. Now the mill works beautifully without stuff getting stuck in there. Crisis averted.

 

[QldKev]

Sorted out the mill yesterday... the free roller was certainly not moving as freely as it could. Bits of crushed grain had been getting stuck between the roller and the mill body as i was crushing. So i just made the mounting holes on the mdf board i use for the hopper a little longer... like slotted holes so i could adjust how close the body was to the roller. Now the mill works beautifully without stuff getting stuck in there. Crisis averted.

Glad you got it sorted out. I remember when fitting mine up I had to mount it twice to get it perfect, but touch wood it has been great since.

QldKev

 

[banora brewer]

Just wondering with these mills, do they come with a crank handle?

 

[stux]

You can purchase a crank handle as an option if you get the 3/8" shaft monster mill

 

[WarmBeer]

TTD800D TRADETOOLS DIRECT 13MM CHUCK ENGINEERS DRILL

An industrial duty low speed 13mm engineers drill from the same factory that makes our highly successful jackhammer range. Has a low speed range of 0-600rpm making it ideal for most larger steel drilling & mixing applications. These drills have extremely high torque & are fitted with a variable speed reversing trigger. It is worth noting that these drills have a solid steel gearbox assembly - not as common as you might think in machines of this type!
Trade Price:

$98.00 Including GST

Nice and cheap unit. 70 Nm of claimed torque should power through any grain I can throw at it.

Postage is less than $15 to Vic, as well.

Anybody had any first hand experience with these drills?

 

[QldKev]

Nice and cheap unit. 70 Nm of claimed torque should power through any grain I can throw at it.

Postage is less than $15 to Vic, as well.

Anybody had any first hand experience with these drills?

No first hand experience with that drill. But the speed rating is still 0-600rpm. You only want about 150rpm. My old cordless I used to use was 0-350rpm and I still found it a bugger to get a good constistent speed / crush. 70nm at 600rpm would be a lot less at 1/4 of it speed at 150rpm, but I think it would still be heaps. For the same $ you can get the 12v DC motor up and running at the correct speed. The 12v setup is set and forget, you don't get stuck with holding the drill. But I guess you don't get a new drill out of it. The choice is yours.

QldKev

 

[davewaldo]

Nice and cheap unit. 70 Nm of claimed torque should power through any grain I can throw at it.

Postage is less than $15 to Vic, as well.

Anybody had any first hand experience with these drills?

I've used one of these drills. My brother owns one. I was drilling 20mm holes in hardwood sleepers and it hardly sounded like the drill was under load. I had to really brace myself when using it as it would break my wrists without much difficulty.

So yes, a very powerful low-speed high torque drill. Not quiet though and whether or not its suited to milling I'm not sure...

 

[Maheel]

I've used one of these drills. My brother owns one. I was drilling 20mm holes in hardwood sleepers and it hardly sounded like the drill was under load. I had to really brace myself when using it as it would break my wrists without much difficulty.

So yes, a very powerful low-speed high torque drill. Not quiet though and whether or not its suited to milling I'm not sure...

would it be good for driving in screws an bolts as well into stuff?

my battery (torque) drill is stuffed and thinking this thing might be a cheap multi use tool with plenty of grunt
i have a higher speed but it has shite torque...

 

[davewaldo]

After playing with my brothers, and if I could only choose one cheap drill, I'd be choosing this one. Who needs high speed anyway?

EDIT: and yes, it would drive screws awesomely! But you'd need to be careful as I don't think it has torque settings so you could either drive screws way too deep or end up with kicking bronco of a drill!

 

[Bizier]

I would suggest that it could be too good at driving screws and strip threads in wood and thin steel if it has that much torque. If you are driving screws, you really want a clutch.

 

[humulus]

A little bit :icon_offtopic: but just ordered a MM2 for US$165 which works out $150 something Australian im stoked!!!,bet you Swambo wont be when she finds out!! :icon_cheers:

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

A little bit :icon_offtopic: but just ordered a MM2 for US$165 which works out $150 something Australian im stoked!!!,bet you Swambo wont be when she finds out!! :icon_cheers:

As Jim Belushi said "it's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission"

Goomba

 

[WarmBeer]

Nice and cheap unit. 70 Nm of claimed torque should power through any grain I can throw at it.

Postage is less than $15 to Vic, as well.

Anybody had any first hand experience with these drills?

Just ordered one.

Will report back to this thread once I've received it and tried it out.

 

[Hammo7]

What I have now done is pulled all the gust out of my old corded drill, so all that remains are the stator, gearbox and chuck and casing.
I then screwed the drill case to a few bits of mdf to get the old drill chuck to the same height as the mill driveshaft.
Attached the chuck (old drill) to the mill, then drive the end of the stator with my new drill. the new drill does not raise a sweat at all and a very slow crush speed (as the new drill is effectively driving a 10:1 gearbox)
In low range, the new drill rpm is 1000 no load, so I crush at 100rpm, there is hardly any husk damage.
Not the neatest solution - actually very ugly, but oh, so effective. and will do until late august!
Would show pics, but a bit embarrassing atm, will clean it up and post pics!