Want To Buy A Grain Mill...

[tavas]

ok sweet... will check that... as i reckon that could easily be the culprit. (fingers crossed) Hopefully it's just holding a little more friction than it should. Hopefully realigning it will fix it up.

By spin freely, it should actually spin a couple of times without assistance (if that makes sense). Any friction from either the hopper, base or other will stop it. I found out my hopper was restricting the floating roller and nothing owuld go through. A couple of spacers under the hopper and she's sweet as bro.

If that doesn't work, try a couple of O rings around your driven roller. Clark Rubber or any hydraulic/bearing shop should be able to supply for a bit over a buck.

 

[Hatchy]

I only just realised that I don't have a tracking number for my mill. Do they normally send one? I got an email from paypal saying that the payment went through & that next time I should use paypal but there's no tracking number on it.

 

[goomboogo]

I only just realised that I don't have a tracking number for my mill. Do they normally send one? I got an email from paypal saying that the payment went through & that next time I should use paypal but there's no tracking number on it.

They'll send the tracking number after it's been shipped. I bought one quite a while ago and it was almost 2 weeks between receiving the receipt and receiving the shipping/tracking details. About a week after receiving the shipping e-mail, it arrived at the door.

 

[Hatchy]

Cool, thanks mate. That's good to know.

 

[tavas]

@ Hatchy

I found the guys at Monster Mill pretty good. If you email them they should provide the tracking number. Can't remember the guys name off hand.

 

[goomboogo]

@ Hatchy

I found the guys at Monster Mill pretty good. If you email them they should provide the tracking number. Can't remember the guys name off hand.

Fred Francis

 

[Hatchy]

Love yr work fellas, I'm glad I asked.

 

[drsmurto]

Question re driving a mill with a drill.

What power should i be looking at?

Found a few drills (corded) for less than $100 new that have 550 or 710W.

My 24V cordless Dick Smith drill is rubbish when it coms to driving the MM2, possibly due to a very small gap (need to buy some feeler guages to check it) and crushing large amounts of rye to near dust so i want something with the balls to do the job and not requiring recharging every 100g or so.

I'm guessing my drill is seriously lacking in torque even though i am using it on it's highest torque setting.

 

[stux]

Question re driving a mill with a drill.

What power should i be looking at?

Found a few drills (corded) for less than $100 new that have 550 or 710W.

My 24V cordless Dick Smith drill is rubbish when it coms to driving the MM2, possibly due to a very small gap (need to buy some feeler guages to check it) and crushing large amounts of rye to near dust so i want something with the balls to do the job and not requiring recharging every 100g or so.

I'm guessing my drill is seriously lacking in torque even though i am using it on it's highest torque setting.

Want to do it properly?

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=782636

 

[seamad]

I used a "proper" hitachi heavy duty drill and worked no problems. Tried a cheap B&D when my dad had borrowed mine and was crap. Had to run through twice with tiny amounts in hopper. Have since pinched Qld Kev's set up and works fantastic, much slower rpm, ended up with increase in effeciency too..Igot the chinese 24V motor,came with bracket and bolts as well. Pretty easy to set up. Would recommend going this way over a drill.

cheers

sean

 

[drsmurto]

Want to do it properly?

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=782636

I used a "proper" hitachi heavy duty drill and worked no problems. Tried a cheap B&D when my dad had borrowed mine and was crap. Had to run through twice with tiny amounts in hopper. Have since pinched Qld Kev's set up and works fantastic, much slower rpm, ended up with increase in effeciency too..Igot the chinese 24V motor,came with bracket and bolts as well. Pretty easy to set up. Would recommend going this way over a drill.

cheers

sean

Both of these options require an ability with tools.

I don't have such an ability. Every time i pick up a hammer i get hurt and the nails laugh at me.

If someone sold a motor that was plug and play and required no more work for me than taking a drill out of a box then I'd be interested.

And please don't reply or PM me telling me how easy it is. I got a fellow brewer to wire up my fridgemate/tempmates. One look at the hop drying screen i 'built' would be evidence enough that i am completely useless with tools and I'm comofrtable with that.

 

[seamad]

Best bet then probably would be to go to a tool shop (like trade tools direct) and get some advice from them. Any cheap drill won't handle the required torque. Better off spending a little more a get one that will last.
Most makita tools I've found to be good quality, also hitachi and festool.
cheers

sean

 

[tavas]

Question re driving a mill with a drill.

What power should i be looking at?

Found a few drills (corded) for less than $100 new that have 550 or 710W.

My 24V cordless Dick Smith drill is rubbish when it coms to driving the MM2, possibly due to a very small gap (need to buy some feeler guages to check it) and crushing large amounts of rye to near dust so i want something with the balls to do the job and not requiring recharging every 100g or so.

I'm guessing my drill is seriously lacking in torque even though i am using it on it's highest torque setting.

Depends on what speed you want to run. Monster Mill suggest 1/4hp (180W) as a minimum. I started with a 1.5kw hammer drill which has 6 speed settngs. So 1/6th of 780 rpm (max speed) is 130rpm, but also only 250w. And it struggled, sometimes failing to start under load (which is a PITA to empty a full hopper of 5kgs of grain). It doesn't have capacitor start which I think is essential.

So I ended up buying this bad boy: 0.5hp, capacitor start and run, 10:1 reduction gearbox. Mind you, if a rock or something gets through, she ain't gonna stop, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

 

[seamad]

Have a look at this one



[codebox]http://www.tradetools.com/Catalogue/ProductView.aspx?ProductCode=TTD800D[/codebox]

 

[Mayor of Mildura]

Both of these options require an ability with tools.

I don't have such an ability. Every time i pick up a hammer i get hurt and the nails laugh at me.

If someone sold a motor that was plug and play and required no more work for me than taking a drill out of a box then I'd be interested.

And please don't reply or PM me telling me how easy it is. I got a fellow brewer to wire up my fridgemate/tempmates. One look at the hop drying screen i 'built' would be evidence enough that i am completely useless with tools and I'm comofrtable with that.

mate it's really easy
my shitty battery ryobi from bunnings drives my mm2 no worries at all. However a corded drill would be good for when you forget to charge it.

 

[drsmurto]

mate it's really easy
my shitty battery ryobi from bunnings drives my mm2 no worries at all. However a corded drill would be good for when you forget to charge it.

Have you tried crushing rye on a gap small enough to turn it to flour? :lol: :icon_drool2:

It takes all my strength just to hang on to the drill as it starts and once it got away from me and sent the mill and hopper full of grain flying and showered me in rye (mmmmm, rye shower).

It could be that i am plain retarded (and that's a definite possibility) but i suspect i am asking too much of my drill when it comes to the torque required to get the mill started with a hopper full of grain. Draining a fully charged battery in 20 seconds also tells me i am asking a lot if it. When using it for it's designed purpose - drilling holes in walls etc it lasts ages.

 

[seamad]

Have a look at the link I posted, I would think that drill would handle the rye.

cheers

sean

 

[Mayor of Mildura]

Have you tried crushing rye on a gap small enough to turn it to flour? :lol: :icon_drool2:

It takes all my strength just to hang on to the drill as it starts and once it got away from me and sent the mill and hopper full of grain flying and showered me in rye (mmmmm, rye shower).

It could be that i am plain retarded (and that's a definite possibility) but i suspect i am asking too much of my drill when it comes to the torque required to get the mill started with a hopper full of grain. Draining a fully charged battery in 20 seconds also tells me i am asking a lot if it. When using it for it's designed purpose - drilling holes in walls etc it lasts ages.

That's piss funny. I've run rye through mine no prob. I reckon your gap might need a little bit of adjusting.

 

[lastdrinks]

I was using a 18v cordless Ryobi drill to power my Barley Crusher but i would go through both batteries on a 9kg malt bill for a APA or lager. When i made my first wheat beer i only got through 4 kg of the 9kg crush before both batteries ran out.

I then pulled out the newly purchased AEG drill, turned it to the slowest speed and it powered through it. It is a little tricky as i had to just feather the trigger so it didnt go too fast but i am happy with process of using the AEG drill and use it all the time now. Cant see myself setting up a purpose built motor drive for the mill until i run out of other projects.

 

[QldKev]

My old 18v Ryobi could crush about 15kg from 1 battery.

But the electric motor is soo much easier.

QldKev