Useing Gelatine With Chilling?

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The King of Spain

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I am about to add gelatine to drop the yeast in a brew, but given that I also chill filter at 1C for 3 days I'm asking if its necessary, isn't the idea of chilling to clear and drop everything to the bottom?

Thanks
KOS
 
kos, crash chilling & leaving for several days will drop a lot of yeast, however some yeast strains don't drop out very well & will need gelatin &/or filtering to get a bright beer.

I'd recommend seeing what it's like after chilling & then decide if you need to add gelatin.
 
Talking to Ross today re my new fridge and he said that at the BABBs talk given by V Costanzo about beer stability and clarity, (missed it, bugger bugger) it was pointed out that if you are relying on chilling to clear and drop, you really need to chill at -1 like the commercials do, the normal fridge doesn't get that cold as a rule. I expect that would include many of our old second hand clunkers we often use. So a bit of gelatine or isinglass would help the process.
I usually cold condition for around ten days and put the gelatine in "hot" into the conditioning cube then run the beer in, flush the headspace, seal and walk away for a week, then Polyclar and keg a few days later.
 
I cold crash the fermenter before kegging but cant rely on that to give a clear beer in case I bump/stir the yeast or drain to much so I drop a teaspoon of gelatine diluted in a cup of boiled water into the keg half way through filling the keg. My beers a clear enough for me.

Cheers
 
I prefer to settle the gunk and leave it behind in the cube. Whilst my Kegmate fits 3 kegs it really is keg Tetris and if I have to swap a keg at the back, by the time it's all reconnected and the kegs nested back into place it's like you've just done three rounds with Hulk Hogan. Then the next pints can be a bit turbid, which is why I prefer the beer to be virtually clear on kegging.
 
Is the process the same with bottles?
Cheers.
 
gelatine works on yeast - with or without chilling

yeast will fall to the bottom once they are no longer active - with or without chilling, they will do so faster with some gelatine.

Things that cause protein haze, chill haze and eventually convert chill haze to permanent haze - form in the cold and then fall to the bottom. More stuff forms & forms faster the colder it is... the cold itself has nothing to do with the falling to the bottom part and gelatine does nothing to these particles. This may take weeks and is a large chunk of what "lagering" is about. At minus 1 or 2 degrees - it might take only days.

If the object of the game is to drop the yeast, assuming that it is completely finished fermenting... the cold will not hurt, but it also wont help particularly help. The gelatine will help - a lot.

Separate things going on, one does not depend on the other, feel free to mix and match or not at your pleasure.
 
Can you add gelatin and polyclar at the same time in the same hot water?

Does Gelatin help with hop debris from naked dry hopping?
 
Gelatine and Polyclar work the opposite to each other. Gelatine is negative and attracts positive stuff whilst Polyclar is the opposite - or it's the other way around. In any case if you mix them they would probably attract each other, little slerts. :blink:
 
Gelatine and Polyclar work the opposite to each other. Gelatine is negative and attracts positive stuff whilst Polyclar is the opposite - or it's the other way around. In any case if you mix them they would probably attract each other, little slerts. :blink:


Polyclar works better in beer that isn't yeasty anyway - gelatin first, make the beer clear, then you wont need as much polyclar to do the job.

Neither of them are intended to work on hop bits, you will have to use gravity..... fortunately gravity is very reasonably priced.
 
To take this further OT, Polyclar will work much much better in very cold beer, according to Vincent Constanzo.
 
it will work faster in very cold beer - if that equates to better, then vince is spot on.
 
Can you add gelatin and polyclar at the same time in the same hot water?

Does Gelatin help with hop debris from naked dry hopping?


Have tried but gelatin first, polyclar later worked better for me.

Time and cold, no additions drops everything
 
it will work faster in very cold beer - if that equates to better, then vince is spot on.

I'm still coming to grips with different types of yeast and their floccuation properties but is speeding up floccuation the main goal?

Now I'm using different yeasts I've found that US05 is actually a fairly slow floccer. I know that using fining agents help with this problem but are there yeasts that simply won't drop out completely in time left to their own devices?
 
polyclar has no effect on yeast at all - polyclar is to prevent the formation of chill haze

Gelatine will help with yeast - pretty much all of them except the very very very stubborn ones that basically need a filter. Almost no homebrew yeast strains are like that.

There is almost nothing that wont drop with time..... but there are the occasional ones, and occasional batches of even things that should drop properly but dont.

All - repeat ALL - finings are about making things happen faster. No finings agent will have an effect on beer, that you could not emulate with time in the cold. If you have patience, you do not need finings. I have no patience so I use polyclar for chill haze and a filter for yeast - but I could get the same effect or better with a month at -1C and careful racking.
 

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