The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread

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Howdy Braduino builders

I have put together some sort of instructions.
I am sure there will be differences of opinion regarding various things I have done that you would not etc. Just like my spelling on my label. It was well after midnight and I had been at work since before 7am!


So here is the link to the file in my dropbox. I am not all that savvy with the forum and posting links or files.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4a9h3tzkne7fnr/Braumiser%20build%20lael%20james.docx?dl=0

James
Zwitter
 
sluggerdog said:
How do we wire these connectors up to use with existing power cords? I guess using a cut up extension cord but is there any info explaining the process? Thanks
Does this look right? (as in the way I have connected the wires into the connector. Wasn't 100% sure how that metal clip part worked, I have taken it out, put the wire in and put it around the wire with the screw re-holding it in.

(excuse the dodgy photo)

wiring_IMG_20151104_074418.jpg


NOTE: I re-did the blue wire so the outer part goes on the other side, I couldn't tighten the connector as it shows in the photo.
 
sluggerdog said:
How do we wire these connectors up to use with existing power cords? I guess using a cut up extension cord but is there any info explaining the process? Thanks
Hi Sluggerdog

Maybe this is a job for an electrical savvy person. -no offence meant but it is 240v
If you look at the manufacturers web site it shows an exploded view of the connector
http://www.cnlinko.com/product_show.php?id=1175&pid=480

Be careful with extension cords as many have smaller conductors in them as in an uncoiled state they "can" handle 10A but if used coiled will melt. I would see if you can get heavier grade extension cable, particularly for the heater connection. The large green shed hardware or any other big hardware store probably sell both the cable and also heavy duty extension cords. 15A cables would be a better choice for bigger wattage elements.

Basically you unscrew the back of the connector and as you pull the buts of the back you need to keep them in order and slide them over the cable you are connecting to. Then strip a short amount, roughly 25mm (1 inch) of the outer sheath of the cable and then strip a short 8mm (5/16 inch) bit of each individual wire and twist the strands together. Then looking at the back of the connector you should be able to make out the letters L, N and an earth symbol next to the screw terminals. L = A = Active or live wire and should be brown in a flex cable. N = neutral and should be Blue in a flex cable. Earth is Green/Yellow in flex cable. Then undo the screw of the connector associated with the correct wire and poke the cable end in the hole and tighten the screw. repeat or each of the 3 wires. check your work visually and for continuity and correct alignment with the colours on the back of the connector inside the controller box.

I actually included a photo of the back of a socket in my construction notes a few posts back

james
zwitter
 
sluggerdog said:
Does this look right? (as in the way I have connected the wires into the connector. Wasn't 100% sure how that metal clip part worked, I have taken it out, put the wire in and put it around the wire with the screw re-holding it in.

(excuse the dodgy photo)



NOTE: I re-did the blue wire so the outer part goes on the other side, I couldn't tighten the connector as it shows in the photo.
Hi Sluggerdog

NO but maybe the photo. (See photo in next post)
the wires push in from the top. there is a spreader plate ( the thin metal bit that goes under the screw head and then bends over and down the hole where the cable goes. the end of your wire goes in front of that bit of metal and down the hole.
the "spreader" stops the tip of the screw from cutting the strands of the cable. it is a requirement in higher current fittings.

the photo make it look like you posted the wire in from the side and under the wiper?

james
zwitter
 
zwitter said:
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Thanks, that makes more sense, I did try it that way first but it didn't seem to hold. I must have not tightened the screw enough that first try. Re-doing it now that way and it seems to hold.

Thanks
 
zwitter said:
Howdy Braduino builders

I have put together some sort of instructions.
I am sure there will be differences of opinion regarding various things I have done that you would not etc. Just like my spelling on my label. It was well after midnight and I had been at work since before 7am!


So here is the link to the file in my dropbox. I am not all that savvy with the forum and posting links or files.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4a9h3tzkne7fnr/Braumiser%20build%20lael%20james.docx?dl=0

James
Zwitter
Nice document.. should help a few people hopefully not make any mistakes... but i think a few more bold disclaimers re 240v might come in handy :)

Do you/anyone know what size terminals are required for the socket/female side of the power connectors? your document shows 'Crimp terminals for power sockets 4.8mm?' but would be handy to have the right size and I cant find it detailed on their 'detailed' pdf. With the rest all being screw terminated its kind of less important for exact sizing, but these ones kind of need to fit right :)
 
Got a delivery yesterday.

WHOOT! WHOOT!

The entire family asked - "Is that beer stuff?" lol

now to create some time to open it & assemble the contents ;)
 
missing_Capture.png


I'm wondering if I am missing something?

Within the blue circle the hole within the face plate hasn't been cut, it is on the outer case but not the faceplate.

Within the red circle I do not have the 4th nylon standoff. The other three are there but not the 4th. I do however have 4 hex screws?

Thanks
 
Hi SBOB

NOTE this is 240volt wiring and should be performed by qualified persons only. The information given is what I did and should not be taken as instructions or reference.

The crimp terminals
The "spade" terminal are 4.8 mm wide. But the ones I bought are designed for a thicker spade. I carefully squashed the sides of the terminals so they were very tight when slid onto the terminal. You could solder these but the idea for this kit was for those without the skills and equipment.

The very common spades are 1/4 inch (6.3mm) and will not fit these sockets.

I purchased the ones I used from Jaycar but probably also available at Supercheap auto, Repco etc

The coloured part of the terminals indicates the wire size that fits and can be crimped. Red is small, blue is medium and yellow is large. 2.5mm cable fits in the blue and 2 x 2.5mm cables can be twisted together and fits a yellow terminal. Note they needed to be carefully squashed with pliers so they made good contact.

I am sure Utilux or Narva or Hella etc probably make terminals that would fit these sockets perfectly but would have minimum order quantity and specialised tooling etc that would make the cost of this kit seem like small change.

If I have any issues with these terminals I could redo with soldering but I am confidant that what I have done will be OK

James
Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
sluggerdog said:
missing_Capture.png


I'm wondering if I am missing something?

Within the blue circle the hole within the face plate hasn't been cut, it is on the outer case but not the faceplate.

Within the red circle I do not have the 4th nylon standoff. The other three are there but not the 4th. I do however have 4 hex screws?

Thanks
I had the same prob with my face plate though all my standoffs were in place. I used a 2.5mm drill bit just with my fingers with every thing bolted up as I only noticed once I got it together, I did have to disassemble again to remove the dust from drilling, but came up sweet.
 
MastersBrewery said:
I had the same prob with my face plate though all my standoffs were in place. I used a 2.5mm drill bit just with my fingers with every thing bolted up as I only noticed once I got it together, I did have to disassemble again to remove the dust from drilling, but came up sweet.
Thanks, the hole isn't a real concern, I'll drill that out. the missing standoff however, I don't see that anywhere. I wonder if this is going to cause issues if I proceed without it...

If it will be a drama, where can I buy another locally (north brisbane)?
 
sluggerdog said:
Thanks, the hole isn't a real concern, I'll drill that out. the missing standoff however, I don't see that anywhere. I wonder if this is going to cause issues if I proceed without it...

If it will be a drama, where can I buy another locally (north brisbane)?
Pick one up at Jaycar while getting any other bits and pieces you may need like wiring.
 
Standoffs are common as, jaycar would be my first stop they're like 20cents, so sorry we missed it when packing mate, I know Lael is under the pump for the next few weeks with final year 12 exams (he's a teacher). Let me know how things go and I could send one out to you if you get stuck.

MB
 
MastersBrewery said:
Standoffs are common as, jaycar would be my first stop they're like 20cents, so sorry we missed it when packing mate, I know Lael is under the pump for the next few weeks with final year 12 exams (he's a teacher). Let me know how things go and I could send one out to you if you get stuck.

MB
Do you know what sizing / specs on the standoff I am chasing down so I get the right one?
 
Beer brain received, thanks gang!
My packing list says 2 grey 3 blue power connectors. Seems I have the opposite. Can someone please advise which is correct?ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1446598537.759729.jpg
 
Come on Sluggerdog

A little initiative required maybe? This is not rocket science. And I am sorry we missed it when packing but the pressure was on to get them together and shipped ASAP. I missed my 8yr olds birthday to help pack these on Sunday.....

I think is 3mm and just measure the length it will be 12 or 15 mm.

3 would hold it but when the heat cools down for Lael he may be able to send one but possibly easier and certainly faster to pick one up local.

Let us know how you get on

Zwitter
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
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