The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread
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Hi Breakbeer,
2x10A. Works really well!
Just a note - QldKev rightly pointed out that the wiring diagram should have an earth going to the aux power in from the aux heater SSR in case of malfunction with that SSR in the scenario where someone has plugged in the aux power in and has not yet plugged in the main power.
2x10A. Works really well!
Just a note - QldKev rightly pointed out that the wiring diagram should have an earth going to the aux power in from the aux heater SSR in case of malfunction with that SSR in the scenario where someone has plugged in the aux power in and has not yet plugged in the main power.
Cervantes
Well-Known Member
Would it make sense to add an earthing boss and connect everything to that?
freelander2002
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Just a comment to grounding wiring..... Connect all groundings togehter on all socket outlets and also connect the heatsink in same loop. one wire to each SSR as they are somewhat isolated by the thermal paste.....if all groundings /protective earth's are connected together, all have the same voltage potential, and you can get no eletric shock....
Hi Lael
The diagram is good but you need to have power for the 12v supply. Where you have active (brown) going to the PCB, that can also go to the power supply and the neutral (blue) and earth (green) also must go to the power supply from that same power in socket.
Grounding is VERY important. Do not forget to ground the pot a good spot is where the element connects to the pot.
I would strongly advise using with an earth leakage protected circuit. "Safety switch" is a common name for them. New houses have them by law. If your house is old or you do not have one then seriously consider getting one. Or you can purchase plugs with a safety switch built in. They turn the power off so quickly you will not even feel the shock.
As they say electricity and water don't mix. And this project has them very close together.
Regards
James
The diagram is good but you need to have power for the 12v supply. Where you have active (brown) going to the PCB, that can also go to the power supply and the neutral (blue) and earth (green) also must go to the power supply from that same power in socket.
Grounding is VERY important. Do not forget to ground the pot a good spot is where the element connects to the pot.
I would strongly advise using with an earth leakage protected circuit. "Safety switch" is a common name for them. New houses have them by law. If your house is old or you do not have one then seriously consider getting one. Or you can purchase plugs with a safety switch built in. They turn the power off so quickly you will not even feel the shock.
As they say electricity and water don't mix. And this project has them very close together.
Regards
James
madhomebrewer
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Hi Lael,
Just letting you know I made a deposit over the weekend.
Couldn't do the whole thing as the water heater blew up ($895).
Speaking of which, i was able to scavenge the element (see picts).
Its rated @4800W and connected to a 30A thermostat.
Is there any way I could use this if I got a different rated thermostat?
Just letting you know I made a deposit over the weekend.
Couldn't do the whole thing as the water heater blew up ($895).
Speaking of which, i was able to scavenge the element (see picts).
Its rated @4800W and connected to a 30A thermostat.
Is there any way I could use this if I got a different rated thermostat?
Thanks madhomebrewer. I don't know! It looks like a Camco immersion element. Looks pretty rusty, so would need a good clean. The element is controlled by the controller, so you won't need a thermostat. Whether the element is suitable and you want to use... I'll leave up to your good judgement in conjunction with your electrician.madhomebrewer said:Hi Lael,
Just letting you know I made a deposit over the weekend.
Couldn't do the whole thing as the water heater blew up ($895).
Speaking of which, i was able to scavenge the element (see picts).
Its rated @4800W and connected to a 30A thermostat.
Is there any way I could use this if I got a different rated thermostat?20150210_200533_resized_1.jpg
20150210_200550_resized_1.jpg20150210_200635_resized_1.jpg
Yeah, the SSRs and temp control in the unit along with the temp probe handle the temp control. You may need a fan on the heatsink for the heat dissipation. Be sure to use wiring etc rated to 20A.
I bought 2.5mm core flex cable from go electrical and stripped the wires from the cable for my control box.
I bought 2.5mm core flex cable from go electrical and stripped the wires from the cable for my control box.
Lael,
I'm color blind and cant read all the words, could you please type them in white or yellow? Also, is the Aux heat pwr a separate power source from a different circuit or breaker? Will have an electrician (sparky to you) look at this but i still want to understand. thanks.
9finger
I'm color blind and cant read all the words, could you please type them in white or yellow? Also, is the Aux heat pwr a separate power source from a different circuit or breaker? Will have an electrician (sparky to you) look at this but i still want to understand. thanks.
9finger
The Aux Heat Pwr is the power input directly related to the Aux Heat Pwr output.
Basically the standard power point can supply 240 volts and a maximum of 10 amps. As the element we use is 2400watts (watts is basically volts multiplied by amps) this plus the small additional power drawn by pump etc means that we have 10 amps used up already. For a small system that will probably work fine.
But for people building larger systems 100 litres etc that would never boil with just one 2400 watt heating element. So the controller has a second 'switch' to control a second element. The connectors in the new controllers will be 20 amp rated so you can put up to a 4800 watt second heating element in your system. But you will need to get the power for the second element from a different source. For an element up to 2400 watts that can be another power point on a different circuit. If you put both on same power circuit it may blow the fuse/ circuit breaker.
Some are having special circuits run to allow big heating elements to be used.
Regards james
Many people just use an over the side type element to speed up the heating and boiling.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Basically the standard power point can supply 240 volts and a maximum of 10 amps. As the element we use is 2400watts (watts is basically volts multiplied by amps) this plus the small additional power drawn by pump etc means that we have 10 amps used up already. For a small system that will probably work fine.
But for people building larger systems 100 litres etc that would never boil with just one 2400 watt heating element. So the controller has a second 'switch' to control a second element. The connectors in the new controllers will be 20 amp rated so you can put up to a 4800 watt second heating element in your system. But you will need to get the power for the second element from a different source. For an element up to 2400 watts that can be another power point on a different circuit. If you put both on same power circuit it may blow the fuse/ circuit breaker.
Some are having special circuits run to allow big heating elements to be used.
Regards james
Many people just use an over the side type element to speed up the heating and boiling.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
madhomebrewer
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Hi Lael,
Found a thread from May 13 2014 about the suggested temp probe but the link didn't tell me the diameter.
Now that there is one coming with the kit, what is its diameter and length so I can get the right size thermowell.
Regards Jason.
Found a thread from May 13 2014 about the suggested temp probe but the link didn't tell me the diameter.
Now that there is one coming with the kit, what is its diameter and length so I can get the right size thermowell.
Regards Jason.
A BIG THANK YOU to everyone who has paid so far! Almost there!
If you are not on the list and would like a kit, PM me - I have four spaces available. First to PM me, get a go ahead and pay - gets the spots.
If you are on the list - please pay as soon as you can so we can get this order under way.
If you need to pull out of the buy, please PM me and let me know so I can open up the spot for others. (there is currently one spot open)
I've run the test controller with parts through a test run - it is beautiful to use! So nice to have two elements controlled by the one control box so easily!
AS per the above post - the PCBS, boxes and heatsinks have been delayed through Chinese New Year. I understand from the suppliers these will ship in late March.
Parts Received so far: buttons, stainless screws, nuts, nylon standoffs, buzzers, thermal paste, SSRs, Arduino Megas, Custom cables, Custom LEDs, received most of the power sockets also.
The list below indicates what I have received. Please don't edit this list as it contains payment information. If you have paid and it is not indicated on the list, wait a few days. I will try to update it regularly. Thanks Everyone!
1. Lael (x2) - paid
2. natdene - paid
3. Belter - paid
4. gap - paid
5. kingy - paid
6. barneey - paid
7. ArnieW - paid
8. The Judge - paid
9. Mitch_76
10. tateg - paid
11. LiquidCurrency - paid
12. rafinus - paid
13. crazyhorse - paid
14. marksy (x 2) - paid
15. JB - paid
16. husky - comm
17. Masters Brewery - paid
18. Cervantes -paid
19. Rogermellie
20. sipahono -paid
21. BobCharlie - paid
22. jubilakka - paid
23. CoxR - paid
24. Capnk - paid
25. breakbeer - paid
26. Oneeye - paid
29. Screamadelica - paid
30. pats
31. claypot - paid
32. Jase - paid
33. slyt - communicated
34. lynchman x 2 - paid
35. Bigbern - paid
36. the boy from tas - paid
37. stux - paid
38. Shaunous - paid
39. jonasbegood - paid
40. havebeer
41. Tassiehopper - paid
42.
43. Misterwilson - paid
44. jonnir
45. parktho - paid
46. MrDave
47. Brutusb - paid
48. 9finger - paid
49. tommy160 - paid
50. bigmacthepunker - paid
51. nainsook - paid
52. BazzaB - paid
53. zwitter - paid
54. glen - paid
55. kiwisika - paid
56. sluggerdog - paid
57. smokomark - paid
58. SBOB - paid
59. Marc280 - paid
60. Dug - paid
61. rhart00
62. Malty Cultural - paid
63. MitchD
64. camelbak28 - paid
65. 620rossco - paid
66. Nick R - paid
67. Cavemanbrew - communicated
68. Seemore - paid
69. Eucyblues - paid
70. Wort - paid
71. Lluisdomene
72. Rambo - paid
73. lynchman x3 - paid
74. LarsjohanS - paid
75. fortmonty - paid
76. zappa - paid
77. Pugwash - paid
78. Catcher - communicated
79. Syd - paid
80. Mardoo - paid - (clear unknown price unpaid)
81. BlueMutt - paid
82. poggor
83. AndrewF - paid
84. BigwillyAus
85. dropbear85 - paid
86.niftinev - paid
87. Silverbrew
88. Drunk Az - paid
89. freelander2002 (x2) - paid
91. Guysmiley54 - paid
92. Crozdog - paid
93. conjob - paid
94. Chris_O - paid
95. Brendrage - paid
96. Guidos - paid
97.madhomebrewer - communicated
98. CoW77 - paid
99. MarketLane - paid
100. mojonojo (parts) - paid
Details about this kit if you want to know more:
Hi Everyone,
The costing came out to $245AUD per kit + $15 postage (AusPost express) once all the parts and exchange rates are accounted for.
If you haven't seen this post: http://aussiehomebre...46#entry1251289 It has more details on pricing etc.
If you are outside Aus, the kit is almost exactly 1.5kg, which means that the calculation needs to be for 1.5-2kg to allow for packaging (appx 150/200gr I think). If you are international, the price is $245+Intl postage+$5 for packaging materials. Go to: http://auspost.com.a...calculator.html and select Overseas (parcels) and check out weights. Generally better value can be had by combining weight - eg: 2 kits =3-3.5kg and usually makes shipping cost per kit half.
I've put together a quick (actually, it is 30mins...) video showing what is included and how it all goes together so if you are trying to figure out what is included and how difficult / easy it is, give it a watch. It is so beautifully simple to put together.
Take a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdKQ31dLl28
If you are ready to pay - the information you need is here:
https://docs.google....?usp=send_form�
Based on the first survey I did, I'm looking at getting heating elements and stainless plates to make the build process easier. So there is a quick survey about that. The only question you have to complete is the one saying - Yes I will be responsible for the kit I build, not Lael (basically - you build it, you are responsible for it). Once you submit that, you'll get account details to put the money into, and I can start ordering parts! (I'll actually wait a little until we get enough people paid for this to go ahead). I'll add payment status to the above list once it starts coming in.
A BIG Thank You! to Austin and the Admin crew for giving me supporter status to allow me to handle all the messages coming through. Super appreciated!
If you are not on the list and would like a kit, PM me - I have four spaces available. First to PM me, get a go ahead and pay - gets the spots.
If you are on the list - please pay as soon as you can so we can get this order under way.
If you need to pull out of the buy, please PM me and let me know so I can open up the spot for others. (there is currently one spot open)
I've run the test controller with parts through a test run - it is beautiful to use! So nice to have two elements controlled by the one control box so easily!
AS per the above post - the PCBS, boxes and heatsinks have been delayed through Chinese New Year. I understand from the suppliers these will ship in late March.
Parts Received so far: buttons, stainless screws, nuts, nylon standoffs, buzzers, thermal paste, SSRs, Arduino Megas, Custom cables, Custom LEDs, received most of the power sockets also.
The list below indicates what I have received. Please don't edit this list as it contains payment information. If you have paid and it is not indicated on the list, wait a few days. I will try to update it regularly. Thanks Everyone!
1. Lael (x2) - paid
2. natdene - paid
3. Belter - paid
4. gap - paid
5. kingy - paid
6. barneey - paid
7. ArnieW - paid
8. The Judge - paid
9. Mitch_76
10. tateg - paid
11. LiquidCurrency - paid
12. rafinus - paid
13. crazyhorse - paid
14. marksy (x 2) - paid
15. JB - paid
16. husky - comm
17. Masters Brewery - paid
18. Cervantes -paid
19. Rogermellie
20. sipahono -paid
21. BobCharlie - paid
22. jubilakka - paid
23. CoxR - paid
24. Capnk - paid
25. breakbeer - paid
26. Oneeye - paid
29. Screamadelica - paid
30. pats
31. claypot - paid
32. Jase - paid
33. slyt - communicated
34. lynchman x 2 - paid
35. Bigbern - paid
36. the boy from tas - paid
37. stux - paid
38. Shaunous - paid
39. jonasbegood - paid
40. havebeer
41. Tassiehopper - paid
42.
43. Misterwilson - paid
44. jonnir
45. parktho - paid
46. MrDave
47. Brutusb - paid
48. 9finger - paid
49. tommy160 - paid
50. bigmacthepunker - paid
51. nainsook - paid
52. BazzaB - paid
53. zwitter - paid
54. glen - paid
55. kiwisika - paid
56. sluggerdog - paid
57. smokomark - paid
58. SBOB - paid
59. Marc280 - paid
60. Dug - paid
61. rhart00
62. Malty Cultural - paid
63. MitchD
64. camelbak28 - paid
65. 620rossco - paid
66. Nick R - paid
67. Cavemanbrew - communicated
68. Seemore - paid
69. Eucyblues - paid
70. Wort - paid
71. Lluisdomene
72. Rambo - paid
73. lynchman x3 - paid
74. LarsjohanS - paid
75. fortmonty - paid
76. zappa - paid
77. Pugwash - paid
78. Catcher - communicated
79. Syd - paid
80. Mardoo - paid - (clear unknown price unpaid)
81. BlueMutt - paid
82. poggor
83. AndrewF - paid
84. BigwillyAus
85. dropbear85 - paid
86.niftinev - paid
87. Silverbrew
88. Drunk Az - paid
89. freelander2002 (x2) - paid
91. Guysmiley54 - paid
92. Crozdog - paid
93. conjob - paid
94. Chris_O - paid
95. Brendrage - paid
96. Guidos - paid
97.madhomebrewer - communicated
98. CoW77 - paid
99. MarketLane - paid
100. mojonojo (parts) - paid
Details about this kit if you want to know more:
Hi Everyone,
The costing came out to $245AUD per kit + $15 postage (AusPost express) once all the parts and exchange rates are accounted for.
If you haven't seen this post: http://aussiehomebre...46#entry1251289 It has more details on pricing etc.
If you are outside Aus, the kit is almost exactly 1.5kg, which means that the calculation needs to be for 1.5-2kg to allow for packaging (appx 150/200gr I think). If you are international, the price is $245+Intl postage+$5 for packaging materials. Go to: http://auspost.com.a...calculator.html and select Overseas (parcels) and check out weights. Generally better value can be had by combining weight - eg: 2 kits =3-3.5kg and usually makes shipping cost per kit half.
I've put together a quick (actually, it is 30mins...) video showing what is included and how it all goes together so if you are trying to figure out what is included and how difficult / easy it is, give it a watch. It is so beautifully simple to put together.
Take a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdKQ31dLl28
If you are ready to pay - the information you need is here:
https://docs.google....?usp=send_form�
Based on the first survey I did, I'm looking at getting heating elements and stainless plates to make the build process easier. So there is a quick survey about that. The only question you have to complete is the one saying - Yes I will be responsible for the kit I build, not Lael (basically - you build it, you are responsible for it). Once you submit that, you'll get account details to put the money into, and I can start ordering parts! (I'll actually wait a little until we get enough people paid for this to go ahead). I'll add payment status to the above list once it starts coming in.
A BIG Thank You! to Austin and the Admin crew for giving me supporter status to allow me to handle all the messages coming through. Super appreciated!
madhomebrewer
Member
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This is what I have so far. Most of it is over 15 years old but in good working order. The pump and urn are new.
The burner is for the boil kettle but can slide it over to ramp up mash temps.
I went with a similar approach to Qld Kev with the MT. Will add legs and tabs as he did which will also allow me to do 2v brews. I also have another false bottom that fits the bottom of the MT pot for larger grain bills.
The HLT is 30 litres and was thinking of adding the extra element for quicker ramps to required temps.
So after weeks of deliberation, I'm thinking RIMS, when a PM from Mardoo now has me set on a HERMS.
So the wort boil is sorted. Where should I go with the mashing? I'm getting a Braudino near the end of March, the beer gods willing, so was hoping to be ready to plug that sucker in and knock off a brew.
RIMS is not off the table due to pricing and ease of operation but I want to go for HERMS for accuracy and repeatability.
Any and all comments are appreciated.
And this should probably be a separate thread but i have no idea how to sort that.
The burner is for the boil kettle but can slide it over to ramp up mash temps.
I went with a similar approach to Qld Kev with the MT. Will add legs and tabs as he did which will also allow me to do 2v brews. I also have another false bottom that fits the bottom of the MT pot for larger grain bills.
The HLT is 30 litres and was thinking of adding the extra element for quicker ramps to required temps.
So after weeks of deliberation, I'm thinking RIMS, when a PM from Mardoo now has me set on a HERMS.
So the wort boil is sorted. Where should I go with the mashing? I'm getting a Braudino near the end of March, the beer gods willing, so was hoping to be ready to plug that sucker in and knock off a brew.
RIMS is not off the table due to pricing and ease of operation but I want to go for HERMS for accuracy and repeatability.
Any and all comments are appreciated.
And this should probably be a separate thread but i have no idea how to sort that.
sluggerdog
Beer In Here
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- 12/10/04
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- 26
Hi Lael,
Any more news on the pots and elements you have been looking at?
Thanks
Any more news on the pots and elements you have been looking at?
Thanks
claypot
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 9/5/11
- Messages
- 155
- Reaction score
- 38
+1.sluggerdog said:
I was thinking of going with with 1x 3kw element on mine, havent really looked into the 2 element approach.
I'm looking for some pots to suit a 50 lt build has I already have a 25 lt system with a PID controller.
I'm going to start dropping in to the local scap metal joints, as last time they had some pretty cool stainless vessels and drums that would of suited a 25 lt systym.
Hi Brauduino builders.
Well I was wiring my Brauduino version 1 controller last night and noticed something I think I should point out with the diagram provided by Lael.
My Mk 1 controller has IEC 320 sockets (like computers have) and when wiring them I noted that the pinouts of the power in socket and the power out socket will be reversed (transposed). I mean that the active and neutral will be on opposite sides on a power in and power out socket. Just think if you plugged one into the other. This means you need to cross the active and neutral wires so you do not end up with a reversal of active and neutral in the power out wires.
I realise in this application this could be seen as pedantic but you never know who will buy one of these and what they may do with it.
The next comment is that the new style of connectors Lael has sourced are (AFAIK) not generally used as power connectors so may not have a defined pinout like the IEC 320. That may be true but for consistancy and proffessionalism I think we should have the same pinout throughout the project. This means the active and neutral need to be swapped on the output connectors.
One possibility would be that the neutral would be the switched wire and that is extremely dangerous as the active would be flowing through element etc all the time risking shock when you think it is off
We have repeatedly said GET CHECKED BY AN ELECTRICIAN. This is for very good reason. We don't want any injuries.
I do not have the program to edit the diagram but Lael can fix it up and repost i hope.
james
Well I was wiring my Brauduino version 1 controller last night and noticed something I think I should point out with the diagram provided by Lael.
My Mk 1 controller has IEC 320 sockets (like computers have) and when wiring them I noted that the pinouts of the power in socket and the power out socket will be reversed (transposed). I mean that the active and neutral will be on opposite sides on a power in and power out socket. Just think if you plugged one into the other. This means you need to cross the active and neutral wires so you do not end up with a reversal of active and neutral in the power out wires.
I realise in this application this could be seen as pedantic but you never know who will buy one of these and what they may do with it.
The next comment is that the new style of connectors Lael has sourced are (AFAIK) not generally used as power connectors so may not have a defined pinout like the IEC 320. That may be true but for consistancy and proffessionalism I think we should have the same pinout throughout the project. This means the active and neutral need to be swapped on the output connectors.
One possibility would be that the neutral would be the switched wire and that is extremely dangerous as the active would be flowing through element etc all the time risking shock when you think it is off
We have repeatedly said GET CHECKED BY AN ELECTRICIAN. This is for very good reason. We don't want any injuries.
I do not have the program to edit the diagram but Lael can fix it up and repost i hope.
james
lael said:Ok, here is the wiring diagram for running 240v elements and pump.
BrauduinoKitWiringDiagram_getchecked.jpg
edit: clarify the diagram was checked by an electrician friend, not just a random friend.
Another comment on the power pinouts.
The possibility to directly connect the power in lead to either the pump connector or the element connector when using the IEC 320 style plugs and sockets makes this very important to get the connections correct.
This is not a possibility with the new connectors.
James
The possibility to directly connect the power in lead to either the pump connector or the element connector when using the IEC 320 style plugs and sockets makes this very important to get the connections correct.
This is not a possibility with the new connectors.
James
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