The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread

[rafinus]

Thanks for the tips Lael,

Yeah I note that before, its a clone, hehe. Well, I assume that the BM is not so effective for high EG (or i´m wrong). But now I realized that I´ll not produce 50L but 40L, because my room and keg´s availability.

My project is better if I can show, the dimensions here (in green):

How you can see, the exclusions for the filters its around 7cm.

For the elements I´ll planning to use a 4000w (with 2 turns), and 10cm from de botton or 5cm (i think 5cm is better). In Brazil we can adjust the wire for this with no problems.

The heating element to customize here is around USD 80,00. The most expensive thing is the stainless filters. USD 200,00 each, but I looking for alternatives.

Attached the sheet with my sizes. I worried about the max grain bill can I use for 40l is only 11kg, and for 20l is only 4,7kg. Now if I change the malt pipes height and put 5cm more, the min water is too big. Any tip?

Thanks for the help.

View attachment Rafael - Braumiser_Volume_ScenarioTester.xls

 

[lael]

Thanks for the tips Lael,

Yeah I note that before, its a clone, hehe. Well, I assume that the BM is not so effective for high EG (or i´m wrong). But now I realized that I´ll not produce 50L but 40L, because my room and keg´s availability.

My project is better if I can show, the dimensions here (in green):

How you can see, the exclusions for the filters its around 7cm.

For the elements I´ll planning to use a 4000w (with 2 turns), and 10cm from de botton or 5cm (i think 5cm is better). In Brazil we can adjust the wire for this with no problems.

The heating element to customize here is around USD 80,00. The most expensive thing is the stainless filters. USD 200,00 each, but I looking for alternatives.

Attached the sheet with my sizes. I worried about the max grain bill can I use for 40l is only 11kg, and for 20l is only 4,7kg. Now if I change the malt pipes height and put 5cm more, the min water is too big. Any tip?

Thanks for the help.

Rafael - Braumiser_Volume_ScenarioTester.xls

You can still do it with 5cm higher malt pipes, you are just running out of sparge water. in the case of a 1040 beer, it might mean that you throw more grain in, and end up with 25L/ 30L instead of 20L. or just waste a few hundred grams of grain (to increase the sugars in the wort to compensate for the sugar that is retained because you don't sparge.... Not the worst thing in the world.

That said, the best thing to do to maximise grain volume is to reduce the allowance of space at the bottom and tops of the malt pipe. in the Big Beer braumiser thread, people talk about inverting their plates so they can get another 2.5cm of space, and it makes no difference to the beer, as long as the plates don't let out grain.

honestly, you can easily go down to 2.8L/kg fluidisation. just be careful and watch it when you run the machine.

 

[rafinus]

Understood, but how about the min water? Don´t compromise?

Thanks,

 

[lael]

Understood, but how about the min water? Don´t compromise?

Thanks,

The minimum water for the grain bill relies upon two calculations. The first one is - how much water fits in the malt pipe? (col J - we need to make it overflow) and how much water do we need to cover the heating element (col A multiplied by col O). Add those two together and you have the minimum water level.

The water is pumped out of the outside pipe, lowering the water level, and into the malt pipe, raising the water level, until the water overflows out of the malt pipe. If you don't put in enough water - your heating element will be exposed when you start pumping water through the malt pipe during mashing. That will destroy a lot of heating elements (not good. some can handle being boiled dry, but generally have a longer life it they aren't). If you don't put enough water in, there may not be enough to oveflow the malt pipe, which means you get no recirculation. Have you seen a braumeister in action? I can post a youtube video of my clone working if you want?

The only way to save water there, is to reduce the height of the element from the base of the outside pot. At the moment it is set at 10cm, as a lot of diy heating elements have a minimum no-bend zone, meaning it is hard to get the heating element lower, unless you pay for a custom element to be bent for you. If you can do that (I think bigbanko did that with his) then you might be able to get as low as 4cm min water height (first column on the spreadsheet), which would allow you to reduce you minimum water to allow safe recirculation (without exposing the element) by about three litres. That gives you a little more sparge water to play with (which allows you to sparge the grain with more water after you remove the malt pipe, which extracts more sugar from it and gives you higher efficiency (more sugar out of the same grain).

Have you brewed all grain before? I hadn't and had trouble working out why all the numbers were important too.

So the short of the answer is - if you reduce the minimum water level without either changing the malt pipe size (to require less water) or lower the heating element (also means you need less water) then you will be in trouble.

The other thing that is slightly counter-intuitive, but interesting is that grain displaces volume in the malt pipe (from memory it is something like 1.6L, but it absorbs about a L per kg of grain, so actual displacement is about .65L (col C)) which means that the larger the grain bill, the less water you need to overflow the malt pipe and get your element covered with water. Which is why I was saying with smaller grain bills (like 3kg or so for a 1040 beer) you can simply up the grain bill, and increase the volume of beer you produce (eg: make a 30L batch rather than a 20L batch) (unless you are using kegs and are anal about not getting left over beer to bottle ).

Does that help explain how it works a little more?

 

[rafinus]

The minimum water for the grain bill relies upon two calculations. The first one is - how much water fits in the malt pipe? (col J - we need to make it overflow) and how much water do we need to cover the heating element (col A multiplied by col O). Add those two together and you have the minimum water level.

The water is pumped out of the outside pipe, lowering the water level, and into the malt pipe, raising the water level, until the water overflows out of the malt pipe. If you don't put in enough water - your heating element will be exposed when you start pumping water through the malt pipe during mashing. That will destroy a lot of heating elements (not good. some can handle being boiled dry, but generally have a longer life it they aren't). If you don't put enough water in, there may not be enough to oveflow the malt pipe, which means you get no recirculation. Have you seen a braumeister in action? I can post a youtube video of my clone working if you want?

The only way to save water there, is to reduce the height of the element from the base of the outside pot. At the moment it is set at 10cm, as a lot of diy heating elements have a minimum no-bend zone, meaning it is hard to get the heating element lower, unless you pay for a custom element to be bent for you. If you can do that (I think bigbanko did that with his) then you might be able to get as low as 4cm min water height (first column on the spreadsheet), which would allow you to reduce you minimum water to allow safe recirculation (without exposing the element) by about three litres. That gives you a little more sparge water to play with (which allows you to sparge the grain with more water after you remove the malt pipe, which extracts more sugar from it and gives you higher efficiency (more sugar out of the same grain).

Have you brewed all grain before? I hadn't and had trouble working out why all the numbers were important too.

So the short of the answer is - if you reduce the minimum water level without either changing the malt pipe size (to require less water) or lower the heating element (also means you need less water) then you will be in trouble.

The other thing that is slightly counter-intuitive, but interesting is that grain displaces volume in the malt pipe (from memory it is something like 1.6L, but it absorbs about a L per kg of grain, so actual displacement is about .65L (col C)) which means that the larger the grain bill, the less water you need to overflow the malt pipe and get your element covered with water. Which is why I was saying with smaller grain bills (like 3kg or so for a 1040 beer) you can simply up the grain bill, and increase the volume of beer you produce (eg: make a 30L batch rather than a 20L batch) (unless you are using kegs and are anal about not getting left over beer to bottle ).

Does that help explain how it works a little more?

Lael, thanks for the reply.

I also make a ten batches, but not using a BIAB system or Braumeister. I´ll reduce the min water to 5cm with my element.

Thanks for the explain.

 

[lael]

You're welcome! Don't hesitate to ask for more info if you need it. I was super appreciative of all the help I got!

 

[lael]

Hi All, updates below:

rafinus - 1 - paid
Stux - 1 - paid - posted
nickelass - 1 - paid
mattieharding - 1 - paid - posted
DavidP2190 -1 - paid - posted
judanero - 1 - paid - posted
Kezza - 1 - paid - posted
Ramps - 2 - paid - send me your address please?
barrel21 -1 - paid - posted
lachw - 1 - paid - posted
heavy-d - 1 - paid - posted
pat_00 - 1 - paid - posted
zburns - 2 - paid - posted
stevemc32 - 1 - paid - posted
mfleck - 1 - paid - posted
djar007 - 1 - send me your address please?
cosmic bertie - 1 - paid - posted


If anyone else wants in - just PM me and I'll see what I can do.

ok - updates above, nearly all posted today. please let me know when you receive them.

Thanks,

Lael

 

[Judanero]

Cheers Lael solid effort mate!

 

[djar007]

Thanks lael. Very much appreciated mate.

 

[kezza]

Cheers for all your hard work organising this

 

[lael]

Welcome guys! It's nice to have it all up and working. I brewed on mine last Sunday (using the same kits I am sending out in my control box) and it went solidly. It is an awesome set up. After brewing on it, I am totally loving it. It really is exactly the same (apart from plumbing etc choices) as brewing on a braumeister. So easy and hands off. I would love to send a 'thank you' to matho for making it all possible. If you would like to contribute, I was thinking $5 per controller - voluntary, and I'm not going to be posting a list or anything, but if you want to pitch in, just send $5 to my account and I'll send it onto him.

I'll post a video of mine in operation so you can see what / how I made it.

 

[kahlerisms]

After trawling enough threads and linked threads and linked PDFs and whatnot (what is it with homebrewers that everything is contextless? My brew club is even worse) I think I'm at the point where I finally know what you guys are on about and I want to get on board.

Lael, you selling any more kits?

What exactly is in a kit? Is it PCB, LCD, case, PID?

The price seem to fluctuate, too. $30? $45? What am I up for and what do I get?

 

[lael]

Hi kahlerisms,

I am getting more parts in at the moment. It will problably be two weeks or so. Price has changed a little (from $40 to $45) so I can send $5 from each kit to Steve as a thankyou for making it possible. It's a pretty amazing invention, and once yours is going I think you'll feel the $5 is a worthy thank you gift (this is entirely my initiative by the way, not solicited from Steve, and as far as I know he doesn't know about it yet). With the recent changes to the parcel pricing the price may need to go up to $50.- (parcel post is now $8 each). I'll know in a few days.

Included in the kit is the PCB, all the parts you need to build the PCB, and the nylon standoffs and screws (finicky pieces that cost about $10 if you buy them from Jaycar, but is easy enough for me to buy in bulk and send to you), the LCD. If you look at the PCB constructions instruction PDF posted earlier you can see what you are getting and building (the only difference is that the parts for the 'snubber' circuit that stops the LCD getting garbled if you are using a 240v pump are also included).

Let me know if there is anything I can help with

 

[kahlerisms]

Thanks Lael. Hit me up when your next batch is ready.

 

[Judanero]

Lael the kit turned up today...

Thanks again for all the effort!! Time to get my solder on :super:

Cheers

 

[lael]

Sweet! Thanks for letting me know!

 

[CosmicBertie]

My kit turned up today too! Thanks Lael...now to blow the dust of my old soldering/electronics skills

Fun times ahead!

Is there a doc explaining how to configure the brewday settings (eg, step-mashes, pump times, buzzer times) ?

Thanks again!
Jon

 

[stevemc32]

All arrived in good order, thanks Lael, much appreciated.

 

[MFleck]

Thanks Lael, arrived yesterday. Thanks again for all the effort!

 

[kezza]

cheers mate received it today

 

[mattieharding]

Thanks mate, got mine in the post today!!

Time to start soldering

 

[abbottdk]

Lael - thanks for all your hard work mine arrived earlier this week

 

[jimmyfozzers]

Another willing recipient here! Keen to get on board as soon as you have the parts

 

[lael]

Just an update:
All kits in the first batch apart from rafinus' are now posted. Let me know when you get them, please.

2nd batch: - just waiting on the LCDs to arrive and then I can start sending them out. Kits are $50 each including $5 to matho. I managed to source some ribbon cable so that will be included in these kits too!
I will be able to do 12 kits before I will need to order more parts. 5/12 are already spoken for, so get in quick! Send me a PM and I'll send you bank details for payment.

1. zburns - 1 - paid
2. blackbeer&rum - 2 - paid
3. jimmyfozzers - 1 - payment clearing
4.

 

[lael]

Just an update:
All kits in the first batch apart from rafinus' are now posted. Let me know when you get them, please.

2nd batch: - just waiting on the LCDs to arrive and then I can start sending them out. Kits are $50 each including $5 to matho. I managed to source some ribbon cable so that will be included in these kits too!
I will be able to do 12 kits before I will need to order more parts. 6/12 are already spoken for, so get in quick! Send me a PM and I'll send you bank details for payment.

1. zburns - 1 - paid
2. blackbeer&rum - 2 - paid
3. jimmyfozzers - 1 - paid
4. roguenorman - 1
5.

 

[lael]

If you are looking to build your controller and want some pics to help you along, I'm posting a guide here. This does not replace Matho's guide, but is in addition to it. Read both of them before you start soldering. Please ask if you have any questions!

View attachment The Kit Build_b.docx

 

[lael]

Just an update:
All kits in the first batch apart from rafinus' are now posted. I believe there are a couple that are still making their way (2-3) to you.

2nd batch: - just waiting on the LCDs to arrive and then I can start sending them out. Kits are $50 each including $5 to matho. I managed to source some ribbon cable so that will be included in these kits too!
I will be able to do 12 kits before I will need to order more parts. 8/12 are already spoken for, so get in quick! Send me a PM and I'll send you bank details for payment.

1. zburns - 1 - paid
2. blackbeer&rum - 2 - paid
3. jimmyfozzers - 1 - paid
4. roguenorman - 1
5. kpaxy444 - 2

 

[lael]

Just an update:
All kits in the first batch apart from rafinus' are now posted. I believe there are a couple that are still making their way (2-3) to you.

2nd batch: - just waiting on the LCDs to arrive and then I can start sending them out. Kits are $50 each including $5 to matho. I managed to source some ribbon cable so that will be included in these kits too!
I've got 3 left before I need to order more parts, so get in quick! Send me a PM and I'll send you bank details for payment.

1. zburns - 1 - paid - posted and received
2. blackbeer&rum - 2 - paid - posted and received
3. jimmyfozzers - 1 - paid
4. roguenorman - 1 - paid - posted
5. kpaxy444 - 2 - paid
6. hillbrewer - 1 - paid
7. El Borracho - 1 - payment clearing

 

[lael]

http://aussiehomebre...raumiser-build/

Is my build if anyone is interested / is trying to figure what this is all about - highly influenced by Edak's build!

 

[lael]

Just an update:

All kits in the first batch have been posted, and I believe all received.

2nd batch: I think all are spoken for - just getting confirmation from one more person. If you want a kit, PM me and I will put you on a reserve list. Once we get to 5 kits I'll order the rest of the parts needed.

1. zburns - 1 - paid - posted and received
2. blackbeer&rum - 2 - paid - posted and received
3. jimmyfozzers - 1 - paid - posted
4. roguenorman - 1 - paid - posted
5. kpaxy444 - 2 - paid - posted
6. hillbrewer - 1 - paid - posted
7. El Borracho - 1 - payment clearing