The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

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barneey

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With a separate 12v supply plugged in no Arduino, I have a 12v supply measured on the jumper (next to r7) and the GND on the Arduino pin. On the Arduino pins there is no voltage on either 3.3v or 5v & GND

 

zwitter

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Hi Barneey
Are the transistors all in one straight line on the board or are two together and the third right over by itself on the edge of the board?

Problem is they all seem to be version 1
James
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zwitter

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Hi Malt junkie

Hey mike what is this board you speak of with a yellow 7805 behind the relay?

On the shield the yellow thing next to the relay is a 250vac capacitor that is part of the snubber circuit to stop the screen scramble issue when using a 240vac pump.

There is a 5 v regulator and I think it may be a 78L05 on the arduino itself. We never bothered to implement any other 5 volt regulator as we use very little current at 5v.

The tracks on the board or the jumper marked with 5v and 12v was to allow 2 different relays to be used. One was 5v and the other 12v coils but either is fine as long as the correct voltage to drive it is chosen.

I did suggest measuring the 5v above and the 12v input. This is a starting point.

James
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barneey

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malt junkie said:
Before checking the PNP's I'd check there is current at the screw terminals power in(with psu attached not usb), then the 7805 (the yellow box behind the onboard relay) input(12v) and output(5v), also that all the jumpers are correctly placed (check the pics posted by jase over the last 2 pages).

Cheers
Mike
I have checked between a GND + both terminals on the yellow box and there is no voltage on either of the terminals.

I have never removed and jumpers since owning the board & it was up and running 1yr +.
 

zwitter

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Hi Barneey

Ok I see photo now. That is a later board but I know which one you have now.

The 5v is derived from the 12 on the arduino.

Are you running 2.8.3x4en Ard Bir? On an Arduino?
Is the Arduino an Uno R3? Or a mega or ?
James
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zwitter

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Hi Barneey

You said that when powering the board with USB you see the Software boot up?
Version?
If it boots then carefully check the 5v. Can check from the ground pin of the 12v input and the 5v end of the 12v or 5v selection jumper near relay or pin 2 of the LCD or the pin marked 5v of the arduino socket.

You must be very careful to get the board orientated correctly when plugging in. I killed a mega plugging in the wrong way.

Also be very careful measuring any thing that tou do not short out any pins as that can be bad.

James
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barneey

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The board model is Mega 2560 R3

Software 2.8.3TC8


BUT that gave me an idea, I have a spare Uno board, which I have just loaded, that plugged in & the screen has come to life again.



The Green LED light though is still on permanently. I cannot seem to select MAN mode from the menu (although if I say select the auto mode the up and down buttons work, so not a bad button circuit)
 

barneey

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Just tried again & have noticed some a little weird, I am sure I have not swapped any wires around but the UP & Down buttons are now reversed, so by pressing the Up button I can get into the manual mode. Although as mentioned I am sure I have not touched anything and the unit was working properly before -unless I am going a little mad.
 

zwitter

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Hi Barneey

Ok I found the same board and have it on the bench here working fine.
Uno is what I am using as it happens.

Did you choose all the options before compiling for the board type language and LCD etc?

That version had the individual wires on the switches that did have a habit of coming off the back of the switches. May be worth checking these?

And the voltages are all OK?

Green led is pump so is the relay on when the led is on?

Just a point that to select manual you need to hold the button for 2 seconds?

James
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zwitter

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Hi Barney

DId you run through setup and set the basics?

Buttons should not be reversed.

Hold the button for setup mode for 2 seconds.

Try plugging in temp when the unit is off and then turn on and see if it registers?

James
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zwitter

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Barneey
Is the volt meter you have a digital type?
I wonder if you can put it on AC voltage range and then measure the 12v dc for me. It will measure the AC ripple. This should be almost zero.
James
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barneey

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Thanks for the note on the options, being a donut I programed the Uno board with "2" and not the Matho board option, so reprogrammed & everything now appears to be OK even the temperature prob is working (or at least displaying 21c & not 0 or 85c), so the new wire seems to have worked correctly on that fix.

I'll give the system a full road test again this afternoon to see if any problems still exist.

I can only imagine yesterday when I took the Mega Board out I must have damaged it somehow, what threw me was it was working with the USB supply.

In the meantime many thanks for your help & time in resolving these issue, most of which seem to have been my own doing.

Fingers crossed its all is now OK
 

zwitter

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Hi Barneey

No problems.
Amazing how often people forget the. Setup.

Try reprogramming the mega or buy another one on ebay or just use the uno.

You are most welcom

James
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zwitter

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Hi lionman

This was designed for a single vessel.

It controls the temp and time for the mash stages and the pump circulation. Then it controls the boil with time alarms for the hop additions. There are other variations possible but that is the basic function.

The version Lael and others put together has the ability to have 2 power circuits in so that the load of 2 big elements can be split on 2 phases. They can be setup for low voltage 12 v pump or 240v pump. They support different LCD displays gas or electric heating and so many languages it makes your head spin.

There are versions of software that support wifi, bluetooth, multiple elements in different pots and different temp probes. I think there is even valve support out there. And there is one fellow who has written a totally different version that is supported in our hardware.

So hell yes

James
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Lionman

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Thaks for the run down, zwitter.

I'm trying to be convinced as I think its an awesome device, but I'm finding it hard to justify. A $10 STC1000 can control mash temp, and not convinced anything other than a single step infusion being needed, and pump easily controllable with a simple switch.

It's a big investment (almost more than the rest of my setup combined) for some fancy functionality that in my mind doesn't seem to be necessary.

I can see this type of thing being more value on a bigger system that has more parts that can be automated.
 

malt junkie

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Lionman said:
Thaks for the run down, zwitter.

I'm trying to be convinced as I think its an awesome device, but I'm finding it hard to justify. A $10 STC1000 can control mash temp, and not convinced anything other than a single step infusion being needed, and pump easily controllable with a simple switch.

It's a big investment (almost more than the rest of my setup combined) for some fancy functionality that in my mind doesn't seem to be necessary.

I can see this type of thing being more value on a bigger system that has more parts that can be automated.
I do see what your saying however there's a little more to it. The pump goes through rest cycles, temp control is pid not just an on off thermostat an Stc can't switch as fast therefore less temp control. I mow the lawn or play wth the kids throughout most of my brew day, this will be easier still with the upcomming wifi upgrade.
 

ramu_gupta

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Love the Brauduino - great unit - worked flawlessly on my GF.

However - I think there is a problem with my temperature probe.

I place the Brau in Manual Mode and connect the pump and heater to the GF - both heater and pump turn on and do the right thing.

When I connect the temperature probe and try the Heater - it doesn't heat (The pump works tho). The H symbol appears on the LCD screen but the red LED doesn't light up and the heater doesn't work.

Any advice from the experts out there?
 

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