Stokes Urn

[Muzduk]

G'day again.

had a bit of a win last night when i called into my local cricket club.
The Stokes urn that had been there for a few seasons was sitting outside so i gave the prez a call and he said it was buggered and could i chuck it in my skip.
Couldn't resist plugging it in cause it is in quite good nick.
Bingo,, felt a bit of warmth off the element so chuked some water in (15 litres)
Heating it up nice and quick.(think it was the tap that was buggered and these days they only need a kettle)
By my calcs it is 43 litre (335 diameter x 495 deep, good for a 12" false bottom due to exposed element) but i guess rated 40 litre.

Biggest problem is it is an auto model with no temp adjustment, i'm guessing it is set at boiling but i only had a dodgy meat thermometer so cant be one hundred per cent, just seems logical.

Because my elec tech knowledge is limited what piece of modification could i use so i could adjust for mash and boil?

Or is it not worth it and just have it on hand as a hlt and make another rig up for BIAB

 

[djar007]

You just need an stc1000 or the like to control your temps. Good find.

 

[Muzduk]

Thanks djar, looking afterwards i found a bit about it that i didn't before. With the savings on the urn buy was maybe thinking one of Nev's herm-it brew controllers,,might be overkill but always have it then

 

[djar007]

Sounds great. And with the free urn you are out in front anyway. No self respecting brewer can remain out front for long. Spend I say. Hehe

 

[Muzduk]

$250 to replace this element,!!! wtf?

Hope mine stays good because of the floor entry other shaped elements would be awkward

Question is will an auto 2400w element be enough to achieve a rolling boil with or without a temp controller?

 

[thedragon]

2400w should be ok.

Many brewers, including me, use a 40L crown urn with a concealed 2400w element without issue.

I biab, normally with about 32L strike water, and end up with 21L in the fermenter. Generally it's a good boil.

 

[Muzduk]

2400w should be ok.

Many brewers, including me, use a 40L crown urn with a concealed 2400w element without issue.

I biab, normally with about 32L strike water, and end up with 21L in the fermenter. Generally it's a good boil.

Thanks mate, that is what i'll be trying to achieve as well volume wise. Think i will just get a good thermometer and turn off at mash-in temp, insulate for mash and the boil as well to help it out before i start gettin all blingy. Guessing being auto it is set to "boil"

 

[thedragon]

Give it a go, you should be fine. While the crown has variable temperature control, I tend to have it on either full throttle or off. I turn it on full until my thermometer tells me that it's hit strike temp, then it's insulated and turned off for the mash. After the mash, it's turned up to full again..I reckon you'll be ok.

But maybe to save yourself the heartache, it may be worth while doing a wet run at the weekend... Fill it to 30-odd L and check that it gets to 70-odd degrees. Then reduce it to 25-28L and check that you can get a boil.

 

[MastersBrewery]

On the crown note, you may want to check out the relative specs on their replacement element as it may well fit and from memory was a hell of a lot cheaper

 

[Muzduk]

Give it a go, you should be fine. While the crown has variable temperature control, I tend to have it on either full throttle or off. I turn it on full until my thermometer tells me that it's hit strike temp, then it's insulated and turned off for the mash. After the mash, it's turned up to full again..I reckon you'll be ok.

But maybe to save yourself the heartache, it may be worth while doing a wet run at the weekend... Fill it to 30-odd L and check that it gets to 70-odd degrees. Then reduce it to 25-28L and check that you can get a boil.

Yeah was thinking of a "dry" run and that is a good way to do it allowing for evap etc.Thanks td

 

[skypilot]

The Temperature control for the Stokes urn is in the electronics on the hybrid mounted in the element cap. This cct. has the resistors which determine the
control temp. trimmed during manufacture - from memory they were made to control at either 92C or 98C depending on the model but they were all made
to control below 100C. If the urn is working correctly it will be useful plugged into an external temp. control for mashing but will not reach temp. for a
rolling boil. As suggested above - try it with water before you decide if it's useful for your purpose.
Good Luck.

 

[Muzduk]

The Temperature control for the Stokes urn is in the electronics on the hybrid mounted in the element cap. This cct. has the resistors which determine the
control temp. trimmed during manufacture - from memory they were made to control at either 92C or 98C depending on the model but they were all made
to control below 100C. If the urn is working correctly it will be useful plugged into an external temp. control for mashing but will not reach temp. for a
rolling boil. As suggested above - try it with water before you decide if it's useful for your purpose.
Good Luck.

Excellent info Skypilot, and welcome. That prob makes sense temp wise. Can an immersion element me used to advantage or am i getting into "not worth it, start again" territory?

 

[Muzduk]

Excellent info Skypilot, and welcome. That prob makes sense temp wise. Can an immersion element me used to advantage or am i getting into "not worth it, start again" territory?

Edit..probably risking scorched grain policy am i not