Stock Pot Tap

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

the_yobbo

Well-Known Member
Joined
15/6/09
Messages
213
Reaction score
0
I've bought a cheap Big W stock pot and looking for a tap to transfer the wort to cubes/fermenter. What are the options, preferably the cheap options.
I'm just not a fan of the whole syphon thing so would like a tap.

And while I'm here...
During the brew boiling process, is it good to have the stockpot glass lid on or off. My first (and only brew to date) I had the lid on to help get it up to boiling temperature. I took it off after adding my bittering hops (no grain steeped).
I put it back on just before flame-out to let the steam re-sterilize it to reduce infection chances while I dropped it in the laundry sink. But, could I have left the lid on during boiling the hops (and steeping grain when I do it), or best not to.
 
Most people seem to use ball valve taps. Get some food grade hose that can cope with heat and a hose clamp. You will need a barb to screw into the tap.

My esky mash tun just has a regular garden tap which works fine although my HLT and kettle both have ball valves. Cheapest option for either is a plumbing supply place rather than bunnings (tradelink is good but there are others). Some HBS and online sponsors will sell stainless varieties (more expensive), brass is adequate.

You will also need an all thread to fit the tap, a step drill bit or similar to drill the hole, some teflon thread tape and a couple of locknuts and rubber or silicon washers. A shifting spanner or two is a very good idea.
 
Just thinking the same thing although for a keggle. So Brass is alright to use. What about the barb, is brass alright for this as well? Any ideas on where i could by a barbed fitting and all thread for a 1/2 inch ball valve?
(Plumbing supplies as suggested?)
Also to answer your other question Muzz, best to leave the lid off when boiling.
Two reasons being-
Help stop boil overs. (Did this once and now know every knook and cranny of the stove / oven.)
Prevent DMS
Link
 
Stainless is nice but as far as I'm aware brass should be fine. You may want to pickle it occasionally (low pH water made by adding vinegar or some other acid) to remove any visible corrosion products. I have a stainless tap on my kettle but a brass thread and tap on my tun and brass thread and ball valve with barb on my HLT.

I'm not a metallurgist so if anyone has good info to the contrary I'm all ears. I think Palmer discusses brass in the printed edition of HTB (and he is a metalurgist)
 
Mitre 10 had basic ball valve taps with 1/2" thread male end for $13. All you need is a suitable nut and some washers (eg. silicone), make a hole about 40mm off the bottom... tighten it up and check for leaks... done.

Optionally add a 90 degree bend on the inside thread pointing down, that should reduce your waste a little after whirlpool.

Stainless steel is ideal but brass is fine.
 
Mitre 10 had basic ball valve taps with 1/2" thread male end for $13. All you need is a suitable nut and some washers (eg. silicone), make a hole about 40mm off the bottom... tighten it up and check for leaks... done.

Optionally add a 90 degree bend on the inside thread pointing down, that should reduce your waste a little after whirlpool.

Cheers for the info and basic pricing on ball valve taps. I'll keep an eye out when i'm in plumbing or hardware stores.

As far as whirlpooling, I've seen that term used a bit and have/had no idea what it was refering to. Is it a simple matter of stirring the wort with a spoon to create a whirlpool? What are the purposes of doing it?
I've seen it mentioned on the chilling method poll, so I assume having a swirling wort can increase the effectiveness of chilling methods.
I've read it also helps pile up the trub in the centre of the pot. I can see this being handy when syphoning, but would it help when you've got a tap?
 
Yes. Trub should mostly end up beneath the tap. You can whirlpool fine just by stirring (try not to splash) to create a whirlpool. The longer the better I think but if used in conjunction with whirlfloc/irrish moss you will drop a lot of stuff out just by stirring a few minutes.
 
Yes. Trub should mostly end up beneath the tap. You can whirlpool fine just by stirring (try not to splash) to create a whirlpool. The longer the better I think but if used in conjunction with whirlfloc/irrish moss you will drop a lot of stuff out just by stirring a few minutes.

... is posting off topic in a thread you started consided acceptable or not good forum etiquette?
Anywho, pushing on....

So, using an additive to the wort that helps drop trub out of suspension is common practice?
What particle size are we getting rid of at this stage of the brew? If using a chilling method, would a standard strainer catch all/most of the trub?
 
Back
Top