STC- Won't switch off cooling

[Truman42]

One of my STC1000 is playing up. It will work fine for a week or more then all if a sudden it won't switch off my fridge once it reaches temperature.
I'm using it on my cheese cave so luckily for me the cheese can survive being dropped to -5c until I get home from work and notice the problem.

Usually if I switch it off for awhile and plug it back in later its fine and continues to work for another week or so.

Any ideas what the problem could be and can these be fixed or do I have to ditch it?

Cheers.

 

[Nick JD]

Does the red cooling indicator light stay on, or just the fridge?

 

[dicko]

. . .

 

[Nick JD]

Dicko you're a fuckwit, and the best part is that you won't know I called you that.

But everyone else will.

 

[brentice]

LOL

 

[wbosher]

Sounds like a PC...reboot once a week and it's fine. :lol:

 

[Truman42]

I forgot to add that but the LED stays on cool. So not just a sticking relay. The unit is set at 10C. But the display shows -5c and the cool led still on. And the fridge continues to run.

If I switch it off and back in it still continues to cool.
But if I leave it off for say a day or so it works fine for another week or so.

 

[mwd]

faulty temperature sensor inside fridge ?

 

[QldKev]

faulty temperature sensor inside fridge ?

Good point, what is the actual temperature of the fridge. Is everything frozen solid

 

[Truman42]

When it fails the water in the cheese maturation boxes is frozen so its below 0c.
I didn't check exact temps with another gauge but appears to be correct.
Funny thing is it will work fine for a week or so then just fail and keep running past the set temp.
When the probe shows 10C on the display it is around that inside the fridge so the probe seems to be ok.

It's failed like this about 6 times now working fine for a week or more then I get home and the fridge is at -5C.
I leave it disconnected for a few hours or overnight and then it works again.

Maybe its just a fault in the circuitry. Or a dry solder joint that fails with use but I'm guessing these things have very small componentary that would be hard to solder. (Even with what I consider to have good soldering skills and a jewellers solder tip)

 

[labels]

My advice is to just replace it because they are so cheap. If you want something that won't let let you down and is ultra relaible buy a Dixell unit - Italian made and quality but also about $150.00

-=Steve=-

 

[DUANNE]

im with the above poster , spend the 15 bucks on a new one that works.

 

[Truman42]

Yeh it looks like I will have to replace it. I just thought it might be something thats been experienced before so someone might have a fix for it.

I can probably use it on my herms as it seems to be fine in the short term.

Thanks anyway gents.

 

[QldKev]

Yeh it looks like I will have to replace it. I just thought it might be something thats been experienced before so someone might have a fix for it.

I can probably use it on my herms as it seems to be fine in the short term.

Thanks anyway gents.

There was another unit that had the same issue a few weeks before the first time you also had the issue. I'm pretty sure they just replaced it so not really any help.

 

[komodo]

Man I bought about 12 of the little bastards just in case something like this happened to mine. They're so cheap the data to read and post in this thread costs me more than a new STC-1000

 

[Tex083]

When I built my PID enclosure the Auber PID came with wiring instructions for a fermenting fridge. That will last a lifetime and be heaps better than any STC1000
If it was me 3 faults and its out! $30 from a sponsor for a replacement or $60 for a PID thermocouple and bits to build it