STC-1000 installation in Adelaide

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Solder and shrink is the best connection you can do, BUT you have to be good at soldering and its time consuming so use a terminal block or eaven better some BP connectors, (you can get them in bunnings).
Also use doubble screw BP connectors on your earth.

Whatever connection you make wrap it in a little electrical tape, cheap insurance ;)
 
maxim0200 said:
Solder and shrink is the best connection you can do, BUT you have to be good at soldering and its time consuming so use a terminal block or eaven better some BP connectors, (you can get them in bunnings).
Also use doubble screw BP connectors on your earth.

Whatever connection you make wrap it in a little electrical tape, cheap insurance ;)
I've been soldering stuff for about 14 years but all electronics not electrics... So I'm, good with an iron and rarely get dry joins but know how to spot them.

I've never done any wiring to mains, so wasn't sure if general purpose solder was even safe to use for 10 amp joins.
 
I'm bailing from work early and going to hit up Bunnings. Their site says they've got loads of this sort of thing.

Might be able to pick up a jiffy box too.
 
Solder is fine for mains work, its the lowest resistance joint you can make, 'hot joint's are practicly impossible if done correct as the tin/lead flows through and around the copper.
Use a good quality heatshrink and if your unshure use some tape aswell.

Couple of basic rules with the ol 240
- Either solder or crimp, dont do both
- ALWAYS switch your active NOT your neutral.
- ensure anything metal is grounded, if you know how to use a multimeter then check it.
- Get your colors right!
Brown/Red = active,
Blue/Black = Neutral,
Green+Yellow is for Earth ONLY!
- Use the correct gauge wire 2.5mm sq is preferiable.
- Insulate with tape. And make shure little fingers cant touch it
 
maxim0200 said:
Solder is fine for mains work, its the lowest resistance joint you can make, 'hot joint's are practicly impossible if done correct as the tin/lead flows through and around the copper. Use a good quality heatshrink and if your unshure use some tape aswell. Couple of basic rules with the ol 240 - Either solder or crimp, dont do both - ALWAYS switch your active NOT your neutral. - ensure anything metal is grounded, if you know how to use a multimeter then check it. - Get your colors right! Brown/Red = active, Blue/Black = Neutral, Green+Yellow is for Earth ONLY! - Use the correct gauge wire 2.5mm sq is preferiable. - Insulate with tape. And make shure little fingers cant touch it
Good to know - but I'm going to go for the terminal block option.

I'm gonna put it in a real basic box for now and do a proper jiffy for it another day. At least with the block I'll be able to reconfigure it easily enough without having to melt the joins and redo the solder.
 
Don't mind the whacky fermenter I made. Another cider experiment going on in there.


Where's the best place to put the sensor?

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Tape it to the side of the ferments with a stubby holder over the top to insulate against the ambient temps in the fridge, or get a thermowell.

I find the tape and stubby holder works though, just set the STC 2 degrees lower than you want to compensate.
 
Donske said:
Tape it to the side of the ferments with a stubby holder over the top to insulate against the ambient temps in the fridge, or get a thermowell.

I find the tape and stubby holder works though, just set the STC 2 degrees lower than you want to compensate.
Cheers! I'll do that. I was thinking of trying a few different positions and comparing it to 2 other thermometers (i have a digital probe and alcohol one) to see how accurate each spot is.

Difficult part will be whipping the door open and taking a quick reading before the air heats up.

Where's the best place to stick the heater? I assumed bottom as heat rises etc. Not that I need to worry about that for at least 5 months.

For heating I'm just using a brew belt but I've cut the loop hole so it's just a cord.
 

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