awfulknauful
Well-Known Member
Ordered 2 Fermentasausus, ordered the prv's from bulk buy, those who have the prv what pressure are you setting them at and what gauge have you got.
Spunding Valve
- Thread starter awfulknauful
- Start date
Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
I made a manifold for multiple ferments, being familiar with how the yeast you are using helps.
Single spunding valve I set the pressure on the calibrated PRV to 30PSI and that gives around 10 PSI
what you choose to set your pressure to is up to you, but I keep mine low.
Don't get a cheap crappy gauge that comes with the kits, try and get a 30 or 15 PSI gauge they are more accurate, the high pressure gauges don't become accurate until they get over 25 PSI so I have read.
You can get 15 PSI pressure gauge on Ali express for $3.60 US so you can make u a spunding valve for around $15.
Single spunding valve I set the pressure on the calibrated PRV to 30PSI and that gives around 10 PSI
what you choose to set your pressure to is up to you, but I keep mine low.
Don't get a cheap crappy gauge that comes with the kits, try and get a 30 or 15 PSI gauge they are more accurate, the high pressure gauges don't become accurate until they get over 25 PSI so I have read.
You can get 15 PSI pressure gauge on Ali express for $3.60 US so you can make u a spunding valve for around $15.
Last edited:
awfulknauful
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that WEAL, pm sent for the prv's
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
ridge runner
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 15/1/12
- Messages
- 154
- Reaction score
- 8
Keen on more about this manifold?
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
I posted the build in the, 'fermenting under pressure' thread, a long thread to peruse, so I will see if I still have the photos and post them again.
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
Using some 50 mm PVC water pipe, 2 joiners, and 2 end caps cut some pieces of tube and cut slots so you can insert them into the tube where the joiners are going. This will give enough thickness to drill and tap 1/4 BSP for threaded barbs and gauge and 1/4 NPT for the PRV, then just join them together.
Make as many ports as you require, this will also help prevent any over active ferment from reaching the PRV and gauge
Make as many ports as you require, this will also help prevent any over active ferment from reaching the PRV and gauge
If you are looking for a really accurate spunding valve we will have these available at the end of next week:
https://www.kegland.com.au/blowtie-diaphragm-spunding-valve-adjustable-pressure-relief-valve.html
These use a diaphragm and will give you far better pressure control. They will come in next week but probably sell out quite fast but we have a much larger batch arriving in October.
https://www.kegland.com.au/blowtie-diaphragm-spunding-valve-adjustable-pressure-relief-valve.html
These use a diaphragm and will give you far better pressure control. They will come in next week but probably sell out quite fast but we have a much larger batch arriving in October.
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
What a load of crap, have you checked the parameters of a diaphragm valve? If they were any good for the application of spunding, everyone would be on it. For a home brewer looking at low pressure the last valve to consider would be a diaphragm valve.
Crimson Cadaver
Member
- Joined
- 4/9/14
- Messages
- 12
- Reaction score
- 3
Have you checked the parameters of a diaphragm spunding valve? Are you a qualified engineer? What solidworks or engineering program do you use? Oh none of the above.
Thought so.
Take a hike WEAL. I'm not the only one sick of your constant petty **** against KL
FarsideOfCrazy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 21/6/08
- Messages
- 700
- Reaction score
- 196
Everything weal says is to bag KL, that's his MO. I think he's worried that KL are introducing something that might make people think twice about the PRV valves that he thinks are the best. This is valve is new to the market so how about we leave bagging until a few people have tried it. If this valve does work well it looks like it will be a lot easier and cheaper to setup than buying all the bits to setup the one that weal is selling.
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
First of all I am not selling any PRV's it is a bulk buy, Keg Land said they were coming out with a poppet valve a few weeks ago which could have been OK it had the shroud so brewers could have put their own marks and the shaft. Diaphragm valves are never good for monitoring a low pressure, the poppet valve I am using can do that and keep my pressure at 2 to 3 psi.
Thanks for that input Wide Eyed and Legless. I had a funny feeling we would hear from you regarding this.
Can you please let us know why Diaphragm valves are never good for monitoring a low pressure. I am not aware of that being the case. I would like more information if you can please provide it. Are you saying:
1. Using diaphragm with a spunding valve is a bad idea
2. Using a diaphragm with low pressures is a bad idea
3. Or is it that these two things work on their own but the particular combination of spunding and low pressure which is the issue.
I would really like to fully understand your point of view and how you have come to this conclusion. It sounds like you are saying that a diaphragm valve is less accurate? Is that the problem?
Wide Eyed and Legless - Would you like to be involved in a video so we can do a side by side comparison? I see you are in Mulgrave and we are in Springvale so we are not far away from each other. Ultimately good research is the best way establish which product will work best.
I should also probably add that we are also making a stainless poppet style valve that works very similar to the brass ones that WEAL has been organising in some bulk buys. The main difference is that ours will be stainless.
This is still the case and this product will be sold side by side with the diaphragm valve. With that said, having used both and many others that we have tested I personally am convinced that the diaphragm valve is far more accurate across a much wider range of operating pressures. From a financial point of view we will sell both types so from that perspective we don't care which one you buy, but at the end of the day we want customers to make better beer more consistently so we will often make recommendations on which product we believe to be the better option.
Perhaps it would be a good idea for us to make a video on the physics of how both poppet style and diaphragm style work. Once you have a better understanding of the physics behind both products you might be able to understand the limitations of a poppet valve.
This is still the case and this product will be sold side by side with the diaphragm valve. With that said, having used both and many others that we have tested I personally am convinced that the diaphragm valve is far more accurate across a much wider range of operating pressures. From a financial point of view we will sell both types so from that perspective we don't care which one you buy, but at the end of the day we want customers to make better beer more consistently so we will often make recommendations on which product we believe to be the better option.
Perhaps it would be a good idea for us to make a video on the physics of how both poppet style and diaphragm style work. Once you have a better understanding of the physics behind both products you might be able to understand the limitations of a poppet valve.
Uyllii
Well-Known Member
Looking forward to testing these both out.
I currently have one like this: https://www.ibrew.com.au/products/c02-pressure-relief-valve
I've got 2 of the bulk buy ones on order, and I will be getting one of the KL plastic diaphragm ones and a KL stainless poppet one when they are released.
I'm sure one or more will suit my needs.
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
Diaphragm are not really suited for low pressure they often open and then not close,
I would like to see a section of the valve and I would like to know how your trials went to declare that they are a better item than a poppet.
I would like to see a section of the valve and I would like to know how your trials went to declare that they are a better item than a poppet.
altone
Well-Known Member
I've got one like the one you linked to and adjusting the pressure seems very hit and miss, that's why I'm in the bulk buy too.
Would be very interested to see a side by side against the Kegland one though - couldn't find the gauge they mentioned however even searching on the part number.
Uyllii
Well-Known Member
Absolutely agree, I set mine to 15 PSI using a CO2 bottle. I put it on the fermenter on day 3 and have to check it twice a day. It will be perfect on 15 psi one time, the next time I look it will be on 5 psi, adjust the valve less than a tiny turn and next thing I know i'm at 30 psi, just touch the valve and it releases to 10 psi...
I've been a lurker here for ages, but I know a little about this, and I think you've got it the wrong way round.
Diaphragm PRVs are generally preferred in situations in which you require accuracy and low hysteresis (the drop in pressure upon relief), and a big chunk of that simply comes down to having a larger acting surface area (the diaphragm) acting against the spring.
I agree with you though that i'd like to see it in action though, especially in a brewing environment. I'd also like to see how any contamination in the mechanism affects the relief control, and also how easy they are to clean.
wide eyed and legless
Well-Known Member
Wouldn't mind seeing a link to these valves, they are generally 5-7 psi minimum pressure, there are a couple of threads about them on other sites, nothing eventuated.
Cleaning I would imagine would have to be a strip down chucking them in a bucket of hot water with some perc or borate could damage the membrane, just warm water and washing up liquid.
Cleaning I would imagine would have to be a strip down chucking them in a bucket of hot water with some perc or borate could damage the membrane, just warm water and washing up liquid.
