Spunding Valve

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Thanks Mardoo

Am certainly keen to try my hand at pressure fermenting and am in the process of acquiring the various bits and bobs, in no small thanks to the contributors of this thread.

FWIW I have brewed 4 to 6 lagers per year over the past 10 years and by pitching at 7C and fermenting at 10C to 11C there's never been a need for a D rest. So I don't expect to start now.

The research I've seen indicates that yeast health begins to decline up around 30 psi. I don't think you'd see a noticeable effect below that, and if you're only doing those pressures for the D rest, still don't think you'd
 
Thanks Mardoo

I'm certainly keen to try my hand at pressure fermenting and am in the process of acquiring the various bits and bobs, in no small thanks to the contributors to this thread.

I have always pitched my lagers at 7C and controlled a slow rise to 10C - 11C. Never had a need for a D rest and don't expect a need in the future.
 
It's a funny thing this pressure fermenting. It seems the benefits, particularly for lagers, can kick in as soon as you apply any pressure at all. As Crusty noted, the range of values people have used here is from 5 to 15psi for the primary ferment. Some people in my club even go higher pressure and temperature and turn it around in a week without any ill effects.

Given the fiddly adjustment of spunding valves, and double batch sizes, I haven't had a great deal of repeatability to be able to say for sure one way or the other.
 
I run 3 kegmenters and due to the slight inaccuracies of the keg king valves I am happy at any where between 10 and 15 psi, all though this can be at 15 psi first few days when real active ferments are going then drops down to 10 in the last couple of days before pressure rise.

This would be also due to the fact of a higher gas load pressure which then tappers off. A better quality valve would help me but ATM I've got it under control.

I have noticed no diff with side by side tests on same lagers in the 10 - 15 psi range with 20 or so batches done last summer.

Also, I did find with a 28 psi finish at 19 degrees, my beers wer too carbonated, I find 26 is max perfect for my lagers and 22-23 for ales and 19 for stouts irish reds.

I do what danscraftbeer does as well, I pitch and oxygen in the middle of the temp range for yeast, the slight increase inside the ferment would still keep my temps under the higher recommended end due to the fact I'm not running a thermowell and just keep the temp probe taped to side of the kegmenter under thick insulation.

I have found my lagers, ales all have been brilliant compared to my old stainless ambient pressure ferments.

The smaller natural carb bubbles allow the flavours of malts and hops to really shine through on the palet compared to the forced carb beers, even forced carb beers took weeks to settle the carbonic acid from the process where natural is so much better.

Plus it's a fun way of doing things. It was the missing link that brought my great beers up to , yep, that's better.

It's way easier to run slightly lower finishing pressure than u wish for , transfer and put onto taps, if still slightly less than desired you will find that after 24 hrs at pouring pressure all will be great.
Easier to add 5% more co2 than take out. I found at 28 psi beers were too foamy, but then again the keg king reg may be slightly inaccurate .
Few batches and you will have your system dialed in.

Reminds me, time for lager season...
 
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Just researching on the topic I came across this info (I'm sure most of you would be aware anyway, so this is noob material):
Lager_fermentation_charts.gif


Further details here: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers#The_3_phases_of_a_lager_fermentation
 
In order to get some 'bang for buck', my normal approach to brewing lagers is to throw a second batch onto the yeast cake. I'm reasonably sure it won't be an issue, but figure I may as well ask the question; does pressure fermenting adversely affect a lager yeast cake and the quality of a subsequent lager fermented thereon?

Cheers
I'm on my first batch lagering ATM but most have reported that the second batch on the yeast cake turned out better
 
Also highly recommend biofine, I've used it on past 4 batches and it easy, I mix 30 mls for 45 ltr batch into 200 mls of clean water , put into 1.25 ltr soft drink bottle pressure up with carb cap with hose on end, then click onto the kegmenter gas post and transfer in. Sometimes needs to be disconnected and extra charge added to the soft drink bottle to get the last in. Also slight tweak of the release valve in the kegmenter to drop it's pressure slightly help great.
Rock the keg alittle then cold crash . Works great
 
Also highly recommend biofine, I've used it on past 4 batches and it easy, I mix 30 mls for 45 ltr batch into 200 mls of clean water , put into 1.25 ltr soft drink bottle pressure up with carb cap with hose on end, then click onto the kegmenter gas post and transfer in. Sometimes needs to be disconnected and extra charge added to the soft drink bottle to get the last in. Also slight tweak of the release valve in the kegmenter to drop it's pressure slightly help great.
Rock the keg alittle then cold crash . Works great
That's a lot of effort compared to simply squirting into the top with the lid slightly open.. are you doing so to limit O2 ingress?
 
Also highly recommend biofine, I've used it on past 4 batches and it easy, I mix 30 mls for 45 ltr batch into 200 mls of clean water , put into 1.25 ltr soft drink bottle pressure up with carb cap with hose on end, then click onto the kegmenter gas post and transfer in. Sometimes needs to be disconnected and extra charge added to the soft drink bottle to get the last in. Also slight tweak of the release valve in the kegmenter to drop it's pressure slightly help great.
Rock the keg alittle then cold crash . Works great

Yeah love biofine I've just been putting straight into serving keg , used on the last 4 brews way easier than gelatine
 
In terms of quality improvement, I can’t say I’ve noticed improved quality in lagers. It’s good to hear you have @Coldspace Hoppy or yeast-driven beers have benefitted from less oxygen ingress. I ferment them at lower pressure, about 5-8psi, so as not to suppress ester formation.

However, storage time has definitely improved across the board. I’m definitely seeing less degradation over time. Not that this is something we’re all looking for…

I haven’t yet tried fermenting lagers at higher temperature combined with high pressure.
 
That's a lot of effort compared to simply squirting into the top with the lid slightly open.. are you doing so to limit O2 ingress?
Not really much effort, fill, pressure up, click on and watch the biofine disappear into pressurised keg. Proballly easier than uncoupling the kegmenter after depressurisation and loosing nice headspace of co2, pouring in then coupling back up and repressure using gas bottle.

Might as well limit O2 ingress if going all out for pressure fermenting .

Biofine I find leaves more flavour in my beer than gelatine.
 
Not really much effort, fill, pressure up, click on and watch the biofine disappear into pressurised keg. Proballly easier than uncoupling the kegmenter after depressurisation and loosing nice headspace of co2, pouring in then coupling back up and repressure using gas bottle.

Might as well limit O2 ingress if going all out for pressure fermenting .

Biofine I find leaves more flavour in my beer than gelatine.
Yeah fair point. And I totally agree on that last point - I became a biofine convert last month. Kicks the *** out of gelatine
 
In terms of quality improvement, I can’t say I’ve noticed improved quality in lagers. It’s good to hear you have @Coldspace Hoppy or yeast-driven beers have benefitted from less oxygen ingress. I ferment them at lower pressure, about 5-8psi, so as not to suppress ester formation.

However, storage time has definitely improved across the board. I’m definitely seeing less degradation over time. Not that this is something we’re all looking for…

I haven’t yet tried fermenting lagers at higher temperature combined with high pressure.

I agree, quality not much better at the start, I do find the natural carb is softer on the palet so a better beer than forced carb , even slow force carb over several days is not as good . I used to alway natural carb up a few bottles in the old days per batch and keg the rest and other than alittle sediment I personally liked the bottle conditioned versions but now get the best of both worlds with the pressure fermented kegged beers.

I agree, my beers have remained fresher longer as well due to keeping the oxygen out.

I too haven't tried a higher temp ferment as I just find staying in the yeast range is still good. So I'll keep plodding along that way.
 
I took a gravity reading yesterday & it was @1.029 from 1.045. Today's sample was @1.022, so it looks like I will be cranking up pressure tomorrow along with the temperature. I can't detect any sulfur smell from my hydrometer sample @12psi. The sample tasted fantastic with a little bit of carbonation & I don't see myself throwing out my hydro samples anymore. Quite refreshing & on it's way to being a very nice Lager even at this early stage.
 
I took a gravity reading yesterday & it was @1.029 from 1.045. Today's sample was @1.022, so it looks like I will be cranking up pressure tomorrow along with the temperature. I can't detect any sulfur smell from my hydrometer sample @12psi. The sample tasted fantastic with a little bit of carbonation & I don't see myself throwing out my hydro samples anymore. Quite refreshing & on it's way to being a very nice Lager even at this early stage.

Just watch the bubblies with the hydro samples. You want to de-gas it as much as possible to get the true measurement.
 
anyone have a link to a gauge suitable for a spunding valve that goes to 30 PSI? Mine only goes to 15 which is annoying. Need to guesstimate above that but it also hits the end stop on the gauge well below 30 I think.

There are some on amazon, what is the thread size on the keg king PRV gauge?
 
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anyone have a link to a gauge suitable for a spunding valve that goes to 30 PSI? Mine only goes to 15 which is annoying. Need to guesstimate above that but it also hits the end stop on the gauge well below 30 I think.

There are some on amazon, what is the thread size on the keg king PRV gauge?
You can buy a higher pressure gauge from kk for the kk spunding valve. Screws straight on.
 
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