So BIAB is a thing, making the transition from full extract

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Just take your time, make the mistakes and tweak to suit your equipment, house, and personality.

BTW Im still using my 60L aluminium pot that i bought of Hanzie over 6 years ago when i started out BIAB. No need for fancy round here
 
Aha, well the thing is that fast chilling doesn't really affect chill haze at all. What you can do is to cling wrap your pot to avoid any bugs getting in and just let it cool down overnight. In your part of the planet it shouldn't be too hard at the moment.
Then syphon or whatever you do into the fermenter.

The idea about chilling and chill haze is that fast chilling "shocks" the cold break out of the hot wort so that you can remove it from the wort by syphoning or filtering and thus avoid chill haze.

Bollocks.

I once did an experiment where I did two brews side by side and let the wort cool. The next day I took the clear wort off both brews into one fermenter and fermented them, and took the bottom wort of both brews with all the shyte and crap and cold break and fermented that.

It resulted in two almost identical brews that didn't have any chill haze, and the reason they were not identical was that, at a blind tasting at a brew club, they preferred the cold break brew. :beerbang:

cold break experiment 2.jpg
 
So I can buy 3m copper from bunnings for 30 odd bucks plus fittings and then use recyled water.
Would you guys do that or do one of the following. Transfer to a smaller vessel in an ice bath for cold break or transfer to smaller vessle for last 15min of the boil?
Thanks
 
I use a 6m pancake of 12mm copper from Masters for $30: https://www.masters.com.au/product/900008316/hardwicks-copper-pancake-coil-1-2-12-7-x-0-91mm-x-6m (slightly more now i see) and jammed some garden hose ends onto it for running the water through. I take the first runnings of the cooling coil off into a handipail for cleaning up at the end.

Also i bought a 45cm mixing bowl cheap off a garage sale on eBay and drilled some holes in the bottom of that, i can then leave it ontop of the urn and it acts as both a lid to speed up the boil time, and as a drainage colander. This is it here, ontop of the handipail
10954692_417083875119251_1915385550_n.jpg


Finally dont let anyone tell you that 'oh the grain bag is too heavy to lift'. Absolute bollocks, i lifted one with a 10kg grain bill with a pair of broken arms and a broken elbow.
 
You may want to get more than that. Mine was half a roll. Like 7m I think 3/8" gives good surface area for heat exchange, then one of those no crimp bending devices and metre of hose and normal hose fittings. About 50 bucks and your home and...er hosed! if you don't wanna no chill.

they beat me to it, as above.
 
Ah chilling, I remember that. Did that for years as well. Like BIAB, when I tried no chill after using an immersion chiller, I got rid of my chiller :).






I'm not against chillers by the way I just don't like wasting water.






And I'm really lazy
 
Bbowzky1 said:
Ok so we dont really do a protein rest then a saccharification rest? Just do single infusion to saccharification rest temp hold foe 60min and then mash out?
If BIAB is as simple and straight forward as it reads and produced quality beer as reviews should suggest I cant see myself going to a traditional methods costing more using more equipment and taking longer.
Hey I like the idea of using a fridge wire rack to rest the bag on over the pot clever.

if we could link a AG recipe to this thread and walk me through it from a BIAB perspective itd be greatly appreciated :)

Cheers guys
You could do a Hochkurz schedule, I have been doing this on my pilsner recipes of late. Currently playing with it to work out the best times for each step. I believe protein rests are more important when using undermodified malt; most modern malts are well modified, so a sacch rest (or two) then mashout is generally sufficient.

I've been using Weyermann floor malted Bohemian Pilsner malt. I googled it before I tried it and it was split 50/50 whether it needed a full step mash or not. I did a full step mash the first batch but the second just did a Hochkurz type schedule (70 mins @ 63C, 20 mins @ 69C, mashout @ 78 for 10 mins). No real difference the resultant SG readings between the two, so it would appear that it doesn't need a full step mash, at least as far as efficiency goes. Other base malts I've used are also perfectly fine without a protein rest.

Yep that wire rack has been marvellous since I started using it. The fridge it came from is my fermenting fridge. I have ditched the airlock on my FV in favour of a piece of duck tape over the hole in the lid, allowing me to use the top shelf in the fridge plus the door for storing bottled beer in. It comes in quite handy during the cold crashing phase of my schedule!
 
I guess ill have to give a brew a go then with no chill. I hate wasting water so im not sure about the whole chiller sitcho.
Otherwise tho yeah ill be able to make one up I recon. Keen as to do a BIAB. Changing my plans from doing an extract pilsner this weekend to a BIAB :)
 
I was gunna be using this fridge as a keg fridge and largering fridge however it doesnt work. Probably the last time I ever go pick up a free fridge :(
Looking forward to doibg an AG recipe.

On a separate note anyone in Melbourne know how to fix a fridge?
 
Put up a "fridge needed" notice in the buy/sell forum. You'll probably have a well-priced one within a week if not sooner. Include your location in the title.
 
nosco said:
I reckon double crushing grains for biab is a bit of a myth too.
This all depends on your mill and your recipe. But basically I agree.

But there are some exceptions, or at least considerations.

I find a good crack for Barley is between 0.9mm and 1.2mm. Single crack for BIAB.
For Wheat, The grain size is smaller and needs a separate crack to the barley.
Then if you use Rye, that needs a different crack, because again its a different size grain.

So for a pretty standard BIAB of Barley it will be one crack. If the Grain bill has anything that has a different grain size, Wheat, Rye, then these are cracked separately, no matter BIAB or 3V.

For a 3V system these are different again.

The ROPPI 1200 is great for getting things just right.

Cheers Steve
 
I never changed my mill settings when going from 3v to BIAB.


As you mention I do find different types of grain can sometimes need a gap change.
 
Im hoping the blokes grain and grape can help me out. Ill just let em know its for BIAB and im sure theyll mill it for me good
 
takai said:
Finally dont let anyone tell you that 'oh the grain bag is too heavy to lift'. Absolute bollocks, i lifted one with a 10kg grain bill with a pair of broken arms and a broken elbow.
with your ****?? WOWWWW!!
 

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