SmartPID

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Has anyone else been able to get the stats going on Thinkspeak? I can connect to the Smartpid with the app and control the set point but thats about it.
 
Is it possible to turn off the pump during the mash? I know how to do it in manual but not auto.
 
Could someone please post a photo or two of how you have your smartpid wired up pls? Do you have multiple wires coming out of the mains input terminals ?
 
Mines wired as per the Klarstein (guten) retro fit wiring diagram so it might not be any help. But it only has 2 wires in the mains terminal. 1 in each.
 
The Klarstein wiring diagram
Klarstein wiring..jpg
 
images.jpeg


I'm a bit unsure of which is the best way to go about the wiring. If you see on the image where the mains go in and tee off for the pump/SSR, can I run a bridging wire from the mains in to the relay for the pump and another wire from the mains input to feed the SSR?
 
Maybe my MS Paint skillz will explain what I mean better..

25587911_10210735392961570_875519782894042993_o.jpg
 
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View attachment 110625

I'm a bit unsure of which is the best way to go about the wiring. If you see on the image where the mains go in and tee off for the pump/SSR, can I run a bridging wire from the mains in to the relay for the pump and another wire from the mains input to feed the SSR?


Hi
the wiring really depends on what you want to drive, smartPID is totally flexible and can drive electric heating element as wel gas fired systems via solenoid valve, can drive dircetly 12v pump or 220AC pump or stirrer

In the picture you post a simple example for a configuration with electric heating element driven via SSR and 220v AC pump

the main are connected
-to the 220V AC input of smartpid
-to pump via RL1 or RL2
-to heating element via SSR

botht RL1 and SSR acts like a swithc so on input to main the other to load (brown) , the other mani wire (blue) directly to the load

hope is clear now
br
Davide
 
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Hi
the wiring really depends on what you want to drive, smartPID is totally flexible and can drive electric heating element as wel gas fired systems via solenoid valve, can drive dircetly 12v pump or 220AC pump or stirrer

In the picture you post a simple example for a configuration with electric heating element driven via SSR and 220v AC pump

the main are connected
-to the 220V AC input of smartpid
-to pump via RL1 or RL2 -to heating element via SSR

botht RL1 and SSR acts like a swithc so on input to main the other to load (brown) , the other mani wire (blue) directly to the load

hope is clear now
br
Davide


I will be using this element and this pump
 
Im no sparky but it looks like you have drawn a different version of the same thing in the original. Get some terminal blocks from Jaycar to make it easier. These come in handy too.

Edit: and some heat shrink too to insulate everything to make it safe once you have finished.
 
Davide, which output to use for a gas solenoid? I’m just using an on/off solenoid, so I’d use the Omron relays, yes? I don’t need proportional control so not the out put for SSR, correct? I need to control 2 solenoids.
 
Davide, which output to use for a gas solenoid? I’m just using an on/off solenoid, so I’d use the Omron relays, yes? I don’t need proportional control so not the out put for SSR, correct? I need to control 2 solenoids.

if solenoid valve is 12v DC you can drive directly via DC1 or DC2 (max 1A)
if is a 220V solenoid valve you can drive via RL1 or RL2 internal relay (non need for external relay)

since you are using On/OFF controll make sure you configure properly the heating mode in the HW config menu and than you configure properly the hysteresis

SSR is mainly for PID and electric control

Not sure what are used 2 solenoid....if are on the same heating channel you can drive in parallel
if you use 2nd solenoid for the 2nd channel (HLT) configure one on DC1 the other one on DC2 (or RL1 and RL2)

Davide
 
Can I also run 2x 12v recirculation pumps as well?

You mean in parallel ? yes if the total current is below 2A (check also the startup current) and you don't use the 2nd DC out
In case you want to mange independently...you need an application logic behind...a program ...a use case.
Currently pump in auto mode is linked to mashing program
In manual mode off course you can swtich on and off on demand

Davide
 
All wired up and running, mash temp probe is reading 4500 deg c for some strange reason..
 
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After some wire swapping and stuff, it now reads around -76 odd degrees..
 
I had the same problem (reading -70). After re-checking the wiring the problem was fixed. Actually I had it wired up as per the video tutorial but when I wired it up to wiring diagram it was fixed. I think both where correct but its a matter of changing the setting in the Smartpid to match the wiring. ie make sure the element (mash tun) is set to DC1 and wired to DC1, the pump is set to RL2 and wired to RL2. Check that the temp probe is set to the right NTC Beta setting too.
 
Still no luck, i changed around,hex heats up very well but temp reading is way off.
 
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