Selleys "knead It - Aqua" Ok To Use In My Boiler?

[Ross]

Well, as I said before - I do use it in my hlt, mash tun & fermenters - & I have no hangups whatsoever in using it - Had a full head of hair mind when I started :blink:

My last 2c worth as well :beer:

 

[warrenlw63]

Had a full head of hair mind when I started :blink:

[post="78590"][/post]​

:lol:

Warren -

 

[TidalPete]

:beer:
Gooday Jez
I have used food grade silver solder on stainless. I did some research with BOCs technical department and after finally locating someone who had the correct information I bought the correct grade silver solder and flux. The silver solder sticks have a white tip on the end to signify they are food grade and completely cadmium free. I used Oxy Acetylene to do the job and I was surprised how hot I had to get the stainless before applying the silver. The flux is a general purpose grade. Hope this is some help to you.
Cheers Altstart

+1.
I've silvered with both oxy & propane & with the silver solder rolling off the job it sounds like you are not applying enough heat to the job or the surface is "greasy" as mentioned below.
Apply your flux to the job & when the flux starts to run then there should be enough heat to apply your silver solder.
Perhaps cutting out a patch out of ss sheet & tinning the underside with the silver solder first, positioning, then applying heat to the base metal (After applying more flux to both surfaces) would be easier? The silver solder will just melt in place & Bob's your Uncle.

Sanding all ss to get rid of the "greasy" surface helps the silver solder\braze to adhere properly. Doing a few dummy runs is a good idea in your position.
Hope this helps?

TP :beer:

 

[Fents]

+1.
I've silvered with both oxy & propane & with the silver solder rolling off the job it sounds like you are not applying enough heat to the job or the surface is "greasy" as mentioned below.
Apply your flux to the job & when the flux starts to run then there should be enough heat to apply your silver solder.
Perhaps cutting out a patch out of ss sheet & tinning the underside with the silver solder first, positioning, then applying heat to the base metal (After applying more flux to both surfaces) would be easier? The silver solder will just melt in place & Bob's your Uncle.

Sanding all ss to get rid of the "greasy" surface helps the silver solder\braze to adhere properly. Doing a few dummy runs is a good idea in your position.
Hope this helps?

TP :beer:

hahahaha threads from 2005 TP although someone was talking selly knead it yeasterday on here somewhere?

 

[TidalPete]

hahahaha threads from 2005 TP although someone was talking selly knead it yeasterday on here somewhere?

My bad Fents. :lol:
I was looking through one of the latest threads when I clicked the link to this one & responded without checking the date.
In any case, I hope that my post may be of help to someone now or in the future?
Happy Brewing.

TP :beer:

 

[warra48]

Well, as I said before - I do use it in my hlt, mash tun & fermenters - & I have no hangups whatsoever in using it - Had a full head of hair mind when I started :blink:

My last 2c worth as well :beer:

So that's where my hair went....... :huh:

And yes, my avatar is really me just before mrs warra took to it with her scissors. It was either that, or a divorce. She is still worth more than not having a haircut.

 

[brenjak]

Jez,

I haven't used it in my mash tun - I have used it to seal the ends of all my S/S temperature probes which sit in my HLT , mash tun, boiler & fermenters - & to date no problems.

How well it will work in your instance I am not quite sure, though I'm sure it would work, I was really responding to the food grade side of it - Selleys technical department were adamant that it was totally safe...

P.S. It sets very quickly, so make sure you have a plan before mixing...

This thred is ancient history i know, but, i have a leaky mash tun (Rubbermaid) where the temp probe has been drilled. I do have selleys knead itaqua and used it to fill the wall where the drilled hole is. I am suing weld-b-gone ball valves etc but still have a minor leak. Any idea's of prodcuts to maybe seal from the outside? Products/sealants that can be removed if necessary? I replied on Ross's entry as i saw he used Selleys knead it to seal the insides of HLT etc.

 

[Adamt]

I've used Selleys Glass Sealant on my mash tun with success.

Actually, it may not stick - it'll depend what kind of plastic your mash tun is made from: See Selleys site here

 

[brenjak]

I've used Selleys Glass Sealant on my mash tun with success.

Actually, it may not stick - it'll depend what kind of plastic your mash tun is made from: See Selleys site here

Is the galss sealant easy to remove? i see you can use a selleys sealant remover but have you ever had to take it off? The cooler is a rubbermaid and i was thinking of placing it around the locking nut on the outside.

 

[Adamt]

I'm fairly sure the removal product actually dissolves the silicone, so it wouldn't be too difficult - I haven't done it myself though.

 

[brenjak]

I'm fairly sure the removal product actually dissolves the silicone, so it wouldn't be too difficult - I haven't done it myself though.

No worries. I guess i am just being anal about pulling it apart and cleaning it or having to replace o rings.