Yob
Hop to it
rinse... its a pretty easy process to seperate the trub/hops from the nice healthy yeast.
Reusing US-05
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technobabble66
Meat Popsicle
Prolly a stoopid question then:
What do you do to rinse? & what happens?
Pour 300-400ml yeast slurry into 600ml PET water bottle (bribie G style) or conical flask. Fill w cooled boiled water. Shake & let settle in fridge. Water/beer on top, a layer of hop slop, bottom layer of nice clean yeasties.
Correct?
What do you do to rinse? & what happens?
Pour 300-400ml yeast slurry into 600ml PET water bottle (bribie G style) or conical flask. Fill w cooled boiled water. Shake & let settle in fridge. Water/beer on top, a layer of hop slop, bottom layer of nice clean yeasties.
Correct?
user 31093
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In addition to this..... How long is it safe to leave this in the fridge for? I was thinking of doing the same and keeping the yeast that I don't use for another brew.technobabble66 said:
Yob
Hop to it
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/55409-rinsing-yeast-in-pictures/
Less, you want a MAX. of 1/3 the volume of the flask, 1-2l is best (old style V8 Glass is da bomb)
example.
1/4 jar trub
1/2 Cooled boiled water
shake
let stand for 15-20 mins and you will see (should see) a separation
Gently pour off the top layer leaving behind the trub.
Have a look through wolfy's thread, it's only 12 pages and all the questions/problems you will encounter have their answers in the linked thread..
Most people have trouble with separation because they have the mix too thick, if this happens, tip some out and re-dilute. I always keep 3lt of sterile water (yes sterile) in the brew cupboard in case I want to rinse yeast.
Cheers
ed: not in the fridge, room temp is best as cold yeast will want to settle fast, you wanrt the healthy yeast in suspension and the dead yeast/crap to settle
Less, you want a MAX. of 1/3 the volume of the flask, 1-2l is best (old style V8 Glass is da bomb)
example.
1/4 jar trub
1/2 Cooled boiled water
shake
let stand for 15-20 mins and you will see (should see) a separation
Gently pour off the top layer leaving behind the trub.
Have a look through wolfy's thread, it's only 12 pages and all the questions/problems you will encounter have their answers in the linked thread..
Most people have trouble with separation because they have the mix too thick, if this happens, tip some out and re-dilute. I always keep 3lt of sterile water (yes sterile) in the brew cupboard in case I want to rinse yeast.
Cheers
ed: not in the fridge, room temp is best as cold yeast will want to settle fast, you wanrt the healthy yeast in suspension and the dead yeast/crap to settle
Yob
Hop to it
Ive used up to about 100ml up to 4 weeks later with good results.damoninja said:
use Mr Malty to get a handle on how much you should be collecting, it was a help to me when I started rinsing yeast, I dont use it a great deal now as Ive got a pretty good handle on how much I need and I usually am reviving it with a starter these days so actual slurry volume is less important to me than it used to be.
:icon_cheers:
ed: using graduated marking on a jar can assist with knowing how much you have collected
Top down
4/4 = Clear Beer
3/4 = Healthy Yeast
1/2 = Trub and *****
1/4 = Hops
hoppy2B
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Has anyone tested hop flowers in fresh wort to see if they kick off a ferment?
The point I was trying to make in my previous post was that you may be introducing naturally occurring yeast found on hop flowers into your brew and thereby corrupting its purity.
Does anyone know the deal with hop pellets, perhaps Yob can answer this one? They are obviously treated somehow to avoid introducing hop diseases into the country. Which is to say, its illegal to import hop flowers into Australia from America, but hop pellets are ok.
Based on the above one would also assume that its safer to dry hop with pellets than flowers if trying to avoid infecting your beer.
The point I was trying to make in my previous post was that you may be introducing naturally occurring yeast found on hop flowers into your brew and thereby corrupting its purity.
Does anyone know the deal with hop pellets, perhaps Yob can answer this one? They are obviously treated somehow to avoid introducing hop diseases into the country. Which is to say, its illegal to import hop flowers into Australia from America, but hop pellets are ok.
Based on the above one would also assume that its safer to dry hop with pellets than flowers if trying to avoid infecting your beer.
Yob
Hop to it
Could somebody facepalm this for me..
Damn Yob! That's some serious stratification going on there! Mine never comes out that clear. You got that after 20 mins? Assuming it is yours...Yob said:
I had a WL Edinburgh Ale yeast, washed and chilled for about 6 months. Made a starter and it smelt very funky... I though I was being clean... :huh:
Yob
Hop to it
No mate, that had sat for about an hour, just thought it was good for illustrating the point.
You should see 3 layers after about 20min, clear, light and then dark.
You should see 3 layers after about 20min, clear, light and then dark.
user 31093
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Cheers Yob, your feedback is always helpful
user 31093
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I'm using a 30L fv up to the 25L mark... Someone suggested that a blow off tube is "required" for larger amounts of yeast like this because the yeast will "go off"....
What to you reckon?
What to you reckon?
technobabble66
Meat Popsicle
@Yob - thanks dude, & currently reading link. Big ups on that stratification. And awaiting detailed response to post#26 :-/ I, too, wish to know the deal with hops pellets. Discuss.
@ MaltyHops - pure awesomeness!
Wow - I must be a bit drunk. I just realized hoppy2B might have a point: can we be sure that hop flowers are actually sterile (ie: renown for not introducing an infection) or maybe they harbor various yeast strains that get lost in the predominant strain of fermentation yeast; & so don't get detected generally. What evidence is there that the hops we dry hop with are sterile (cf. "effectively" sterile)?
Maybe there's all sorts of hops-friendly yeasts sitting on those flowers ready to be discovered!!
Then again, who cares...
@ MaltyHops - pure awesomeness!
Wow - I must be a bit drunk. I just realized hoppy2B might have a point: can we be sure that hop flowers are actually sterile (ie: renown for not introducing an infection) or maybe they harbor various yeast strains that get lost in the predominant strain of fermentation yeast; & so don't get detected generally. What evidence is there that the hops we dry hop with are sterile (cf. "effectively" sterile)?
Maybe there's all sorts of hops-friendly yeasts sitting on those flowers ready to be discovered!!
Then again, who cares...
Yob
Hop to it
Unlikely given their preserving properties for beer.. If they were prone to leading to infection they wouldn't have become popular, also keep in mind that when dry hopping (yes even flowers) that there is already a dominant yeast in there thereby inhibiting the growth of a 'foreign' yeast.
With regard to Hoppy's other lamentable points.. Flowers can harbor insects. Pulverized pellets cannot. (or machine pressed plugs) they are also flushed with nitrogen which can't be terribly easy to live in.
Why the hell would you want to 'kick off a ferment by throwing in flowers and under pitching by what would be an insane amount? How would you determine that it was wild yeast from the hops and not airborne contaminants from when you opened the FV to add your hops? I think your hypothesis is flawed and the conditions under which to run said 'experiment' would require considerable wasted effort.
Sorry for the off topic rant
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/3807/hops-yeast-starter
http://byo.com/recipes-tag/item/1954-dry-hopping-mr-wizard
With regard to Hoppy's other lamentable points.. Flowers can harbor insects. Pulverized pellets cannot. (or machine pressed plugs) they are also flushed with nitrogen which can't be terribly easy to live in.
Why the hell would you want to 'kick off a ferment by throwing in flowers and under pitching by what would be an insane amount? How would you determine that it was wild yeast from the hops and not airborne contaminants from when you opened the FV to add your hops? I think your hypothesis is flawed and the conditions under which to run said 'experiment' would require considerable wasted effort.
Sorry for the off topic rant
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/3807/hops-yeast-starter
http://byo.com/recipes-tag/item/1954-dry-hopping-mr-wizard
of mice and gods
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Well, I just harvested a pint of US-05 slurry (swirled the fermenter after kegging) from a 1.045 OG apa fermented at 18.5C and pitched it into a new batch of 1.055 apa (21L in a 30L fermenter) and in under 24 hours the krausen was gushing from the airlock. A good litre has bubbled out.. madness.damoninja said:
I'm glad I didn't pitch half the slurry! I do however think it might have something to do with the fact that it was out of the fermenter in 8 days (i needed beer damnit) so was probably extra lively.
Al
hoppy2B
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In regard to Yob's comments, I was merely suggesting pitching some hops into fresh wort that had not had any other yeast pitched into it. The purpose of which would be to ascertain whether the hop flower is responsible for introducing yeast into dry hopped beer and thereby reducing the number of times homebrewers are able to reuse yeast.
That's obviously too difficult for Yob to comprehend however.
That's obviously too difficult for Yob to comprehend however.
I was listening to Jamil Zainasheff on Brew Strong, and he suggested that Hop Flowers are great for the Boil, but when it comes to Dry Hopping, the amount of Lupulin in contact with the beer is less than using Pellets, and therefore prefers Pellets for Dry Hopping. Kind of removes the worry about wild Yeast that way too.
Yob
Hop to it
Why? Just because the hops have been pelletized I shouldn't think that removes the wild yeast/dust/spores that would have been present as whole cones.
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