Refractometer

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You may have a non-temperature compensating refractometer so you have to adjust the results on every reading.

Or are you doing readings during fermentation with alcohol in the sample drops? That will skew the results as well and needs corrections applied.

I primarily got mine for #1 Mead, #2 Cider. I have not applied it *yet* to brewing beer.

I actually now have to get a really damn good/accurate hydrometer so I can cross-compare calibration issues and results.


Hydrometer:
+ : Dunk it in an take a reading
+ : Good for final readings with alcohol
- : Needs temperature corrections
- : Large sample size not good for small batch brewing (which is done outside of the realm of beer)
- : Very fragile, costs add up when you keep buying decent hydrometers over and over again

Refractometer:
+ : Only two liquid drops sample size
+ : Good for original readings in a portable environment (in the vineyard, next to a fruiting tree, etc.)
+ : Rather rugged, especially compared to a hydrometer, but of course within limits
- : Needs temperature corrections if you didn't buy an automatic correcting one
- : Needs corrections if you have alcohol in the sample
but all corrections taken care for you by This Website: Homebrew Recractometer Calculations


Use both is my philosophy. Both in the areas where their particular strong suits shine through.
 
I did cool to 20 c for samples and calibrated at 20c. Still not that accurate.Never tried it on fermenting beer. It sits in the spare bits brewing box, its happy and Im happy.Its nice to be happy. :p
GB
 
Post a link to it so we can all know which model to avoid :p
 
I got mine from ebay too Pete!

Great little piece of equiptment with a packet of 10 pippets thrown in!

calibrated to 0 brix out of the box and readings next to my hydrometer are quite good. (i find my hydrometer is unstable due to CO2 in solution, etc.)
 
I got mine from ebay too Pete!

Great little piece of equiptment with a packet of 10 pippets thrown in!

calibrated to 0 brix out of the box and readings next to my hydrometer are quite good. (i find my hydrometer is unstable due to CO2 in solution, etc.)



Enjoy the unit knowing its the same model from the same factory I've seen selling in down in Vic for close to $150.

Now that I'm thinking of getting Bees I know where to go to get a Honey specific refractometer at a very fair price of $26 :)



Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
I will have to tell my father about this as well, he is about as passionate about his bees as I am my beer.
 
Enjoy the unit knowing its the same model from the same factory I've seen selling in down in Vic for close to $150.




Cheers,
Brewer Pete
I got mine off ebay too...
I feel sad that i could not afford to support my LHBS on this purchase but ...
I do spend a quid there anyway lol
 
piss easy and 120+ kg of honey a hive stack, more if you get more than one collection out of them per season. I can see with a few hives in the yard, 400-800 kg of honey and just begging to be brewed!
 
This is my new refractometer.
PAL_1new.jpg
Can be purchased online for around $300USD.
Search for Atago PAL-1 on the net, they can also be bought in Australia, but will cost around $850.
It is also temperature compensated.

Many other models available, a couple that read SG scale (of urine - would need to cross out the label on this one.)

Brix scale models are about the cheapest because they are most common. I technically did not pay for mine because work "needed" one as I run vineyards and need to measure grape sugar levels and this is a lot quicker and easier to read than a hand held. Vintage lasts about 2 months for me, therefore the other 10 months will be looked after at home.
 
This is my new refractometer. <snip>
Purrdy. Decent bling.

Many other models available, a couple that read SG scale (of urine - would need to cross out the label on this one.)
When I first brought mine home (standard scope type), I asked the wife "guess what this is"...

Wife: "A refractometer? We use those at work (veterinary pathology lab), I probably could have got you one cheap"
Me: "Dang. Wait, what's the scale on yours?"
Wife: "S.G."
Me: "Dang. Wait, what's it calibrated to?"
Wife: "Cat urine."
Me: " <_< ... ... ... Never mind."

<awaits "you could use it to make VB" jokes>
 
Very modern bling!

Wonder if they put correction formulas into the unit, otherwise will need to deal with the difference between maltose in solution versus succrose in solution. Maltose will bend light at a slightly different rate than succrose does.

I use a simple multiplier to correct for maltose even though there is not a linear relationship between Brix/Plato and Specific Gravity and also after 1.050 the error rate goes a bit out of hand it works. I have a big nasty correction formula thats way more accurate bit I put that into my program Im slowly writing to do all the conversions and corrections for all sorts of related brew stuff from yeast profiles to attenuation projection to tools of the ferment. For now its just an engine full of formulae with no inteface.

Brix being a percentage w/w of succrose in distilled water its easy to mix up differin weights of sugar and distilled water to use as baselines to determine the accuracy of your refractometer at different range points. 10 Brix should be 10 grams succrose disolved in 90 grams distilled water. 20 Brix is 20 grams succrose disolved in 80 grams of water. And so on...

Once your refractometer is tested you can run your hydrometer against the baselines of pure distilled water, 10 Brix distilled water, and 20 Brix distilled water. See where the deviance points are and see which tool is giving you better readings across the scale.

Every .1 degree Brix is roughly 4 brewing points though really a little less than 3.9 points.
 
I swear some of these refractometers are cursed if so many of you love them so much. I bought a MM unit a while back, couldn't get even a few similar readings no matter how many in a row I took. I took care to make sure there were no bubbles or anything, even rinsed the lens with distilled water and dried it with a lint free cloth to ensure no contaminents. Then I read that using hot wort on it is bad because it will evaporate a bit and give you shoddy readings, so I tried it with chilled wort. Still no luck, I could take 5 readings in a row, rinsing with distilled and drying between each reading, and not get the same reading twice. Then the little pin slipped out of the lens thingy never to be found again. I never trusted to the stupid thing anyway, one in ten I'd get a reading that agreed with the trusty old hydrometer. Thing was a stupid waste of money.
 
I swear some of these refractometers are cursed

They must be! :blink:

Or maybe its down to technique.

Bobby did a video of refractometers vs hyrdrometers let me see if I can get it all linked up.

Bobby's refractometer is the same model as mine except with the built in battery operated LED diode providing lighting. I use ambient. Too bright a light will skew readings as well. On Northern Brewers there is a lot of people going refractometer over hydrometer, and even some I Love My Refractometer Web Sites popping up. Its a bit out of place seeing others with the ?same units? not able to get it working for them.

A refractometer with ATC (Auto Thermal Compensation) is unaffected by temperature, fermentation gases and only takes one to two drops to measure the sugar content of your must. However, it is effected by the different refractive index of ethanol. As the amount of alcohol increases the refractive index changes algorithmically. Unlike a Hydrometer the reading in a refractometer will never go to zero.

These guys have no issues with the same model I use. If you don't correct your readings then you won't be reading the correct information :) - ok bad pun.
Follow the corrected Plato down and see how the deviation is tiny from the predicted Plato.
HydroRefracExperiment.png
*SG = 1.001843 - 0.002318474(OB) - 0.000007775(OB^2) - 0.000000034(OB^3) + 0.00574(AB) + 0.00003344(AB^2) + 0.000000086(AB^3)
*SG = Specific Gravity, OB = Original Brix, AB = Actual Brix (Brix Readings During Fermentation)
*Formula was derived from the 69th edition (1988-1989) of the CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, "Concentrative Properties of Aqueous Solutions: Conversion Tables", Table 88 Sucrose


If you degas, spin the ol' hydrometer and do temperature corrections to your hydro readings, what techniques are you applying to the refractometer readings?

UC_TEMPS.jpg
Colder samples than Calibration temperature results in small deviations, Hotter samples than Calibration temperature results in larger deviations.

UC_Refractometers.jpg
UC California - Fresno uses and does a lot of write ups and work with the same model refractometer I use. Apparently they are working great for people in fruit, wine, and in Bobby's case, beer measurements. I think it might be refractometer damage or quality control at the factory. The high end analogue refractometers have a higher ATC range and thats pretty much all the extra money buys you. The cheaper units like ours have a smaller ATC range and you'd want to stick near calibration if worried about quality control within the assembly line.


Need to check for any defects such as damaged prism, dislocated prism, etc.
UC_BAD_MAINTAIN.jpg


Your not going anywhere with any level of accuracy until you calibrate your tools.


One of many techniques to calibrate:

... will continue in the next post.
 
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A refractometer with ATC (Auto Thermal Compensation) is unaffected by temperature, fermentation gases and only takes one to two drops to measure the sugar content of your must. However, it is effected by the different refractive index of ethanol. As the amount of alcohol increases the refractive index changes algorithmically. Unlike a Hydrometer the reading in a refractometer will never go to zero.

In theory the "ethanol effect" is predictable and a formula should be able to compensate for it's refractive change.

The formula tracked like rocket science. Over the 10 day fermentation we averaged less than 1% difference and that falls into the realm of user error.

Ok now that the secret is out -- That you can not pick up a Refractometer and expect it to work like you use a Hydrometer because different laws of Physics are at play here. If you don't know, its understandable that you put it away in the back of the drawer and rubbish it publicly because you didn't understand how the tool works. But now you do, so its time to learn how to use your tool and see if it was tool error or operator error all along.

Making a Calibration Test Kit
(If your refractometer passes the calibration with flying colours but your wort measurements are still all over the place, then its a pointer to your technique. Else, it will show you have a dodgy refractometer that needs replacement.)


UC_CALIBRATE.jpg
One of many ways. To be more accurate you can build differing test samples based on accurate weights of both water and sugar alone.

1. Obtain the following materials (Fig. 6).
a. 4 bottles of drinking water containing 500ml (16.9 fl oz) each.
b. A 100-count box of sugar packets with each packet containing 3 grams of sugar. The amount of sugar is specified on the box where nutrition information is listed.
If you cannot get 3 gram packets, make sure you have an accurate scale to measure out 3 grams of sugar to use.
c. Felt tip marker.
d. TC or ATC refractometer.
e. A clean, soft, lint-free cloth.


2. Carefully remove 5 capfuls of water from each bottle to allow room for the addition of sugar.


3. Clearly label each bottle with one of the following designations: 0, 5, 10, 20. Marking the bottle and cap using a permanent marker will maintain the identity of the bottle contents. Count out the correct number of sugar packets and place them in front of the bottle with the corresponding number.


4. Hold the sugar packets up to the light to make sure contents are uniform. Although the box may indicate that each sugar packet contains 3 grams of sugar, it was found that there was a lot of variability in the actual weight of the sugar packets (use an accurate scale to be sure!). Carefully pour the contents of the specified number of sugar packets into each bottle. The bottle marked with 5 will receive 5 sugar packets, etc.


5. Secure the cap and vigorously shake each bottle until the sugar is completely dissolved. At the end of this step, four bottles containing 0, 5, 10, and 20 packets of sugar make your calibration test kit.


--- done ---


CALIBRATING

1. Inspect the refractometer prism for scratches, chips, separations or other aberrations that may interfere with proper readings. If dusty, rinse (do not submerge) with water and wipe with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth.

2. Note the temperature at the time of readings. Most ATC refractometers operate properly in the 68-86F (20-30C) range. A laboratory or office at room temperature should be used if outside temperatures exceed the manufacturer's recommended temperature range.

3. Place a few drops of pure water on the prism surface. If it is an analogue refractometer, close the cover. If bubbles form, gently pressing the cover will remove the bubbles and help disperse the water over the entire surface. For digital refractometers, make sure that bubbles in the well are eliminated prior to making a reading.

4. Hold the refractometer up to natural light or an incandescent bulb to obtain the reading. Looking into the eyepiece, one should see a distinct separation between a blue and white section, often called a contrast line. If the contrast line is not directly at zero, then adjust by turning the screw on the top of the refractometer until it reads zero. Replace the plastic cap after adjusting the calibration screw to prevent water from entering the refractometer. You can adjust the focus by twisting the eyepiece until the scale can be seen clearly. Once the refractometer is calibrated to zero with pure water, dry the surfaces with a clean cloth. Digital refractometers should be calibrated by pressing the zero button with water in the well.

5. Place some of the solution from the 5-packet bottle on the prism and close the cover, making sure that the entire surface is filled and void of bubbles. Note the value and write it in Table 1 under Your Value. For digital refractometers, place the solution in the well and press the start button. Record the value in Table 1. The value will remain on the LED display until the next sample is read.

6. Between samples, clean the refractometer prism surface with pure water and wipe dry.

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 with bottles marked 10 and 20. Record the values in Table 1.

8. Compare your values with those in Table 1. If your values are outside the expected range, follow the calibration steps a second time. If they are still outside the range, read the following Trouble Shooting section for help.

UC_TABLE1.png


--- done ---


TROUBLE SHOOTING

1. Check to make sure that the bottled water used was unopened/new.
2. Check to make sure that 500ml water bottles and 3g sugar packets were used.
3. Check to make sure that 5 capfuls of water were removed before adding sugar.
4. Check to make sure that the packets had close to the same amount of sugar in them and that the appropriate number of packets were added to each of the bottles.
5. Check to see if the refractometer is temperature compensating. If it is not, a corrections table is needed to make adjustments. The corrections table is only valid if the temperature was recorded for each reading.
6. Check to make sure that an ATC refractometer was used within its range of 68-86F (20-30C).
7. Check to make sure that the solution is within the temperature range of the ATC refractometer.
8. Replace the batteries in the digital refractometer at the beginning of each season.



Hopefully this is the end on my piece on Refractometers :p
Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
For the curious.

An example of Refractometer usage exclusively through a Mead fermentation and with the final measured figures shows the classic example of the effect of ethanol on the Observed BRIX value and the real degrees BRIX value corrected. Includes corrected gravity readings as well to what a Hydrometer would give, of course without having to use a Hydromter. You can use one to test your final results to see how tightly you've tracked the ethanol skew in the formula.

Example of Refractometer use in a fermentation

Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
This is my new refractometer.
View attachment 26086
Can be purchased online for around $300USD.
Search for Atago PAL-1 on the net, they can also be bought in Australia, but will cost around $850.
It is also temperature compensated.


Brix scale models are about the cheapest because they are most common. I technically did not pay for mine because work "needed" one as I run vineyards and need to measure grape sugar levels and this is a lot quicker and easier to read than a hand held. Vintage lasts about 2 months for me, therefore the other 10 months will be looked after at home.

Boston, I've been researching formulas for scales conversions and came across a blurb on the digital refractometer that could be a weakness. They are supposed to use an infrared beam that is directed at the sample and measure the vibrational rate calibrated for sucrose. The plus is they are more accurate than the analogue refractometers but they are negative in that they target sucrose and skip other fermentable sugars. The blurb mentioned the handheld analogue style refractometer is more accurate for the representation of all sugars in solution.

If you get time to test and are curious if it is so, a mix of known amounts of various brewing sugars in solution and measure with the digital and an analogue. Then evaporate the water and measure the residual solids.

For grape work it should not be an issue. I don't see the weakness as a major issue in brewing either as it pertains mostly to beer brewing of which I don't tend to use the refractometer exclusively in.

I'm still bloody curious now though :D

Cheers,
Brewer Pete
 
Recently bought the dual SG/Brix refractometer from one of the sponsors here.

Previously I have used a Brix scaled refractometer (along with a set of conversion tables), confirming the OG with a hydrometer at the end of the boil. For the last two batches, I have used the new dual scaled refractometer, and I _really_ love it. I am still taking a hydrometer sample at the end of the boil, but I am finding that the refractometer is so easy, convenient and so far accurate that I may no longer need to do this.

Main lessons are:

1. Calibrate with water each brew day,
2. Allow the sample enough time to cool on the face of the refractometer before taking the reading.
 
have conversion sheets for mead and corrections for readings with alcohol in the sample.

Pete, what conversion sheets do you use. Could you please tell me what you think my current gravity is on a mead and the % Alc

OG- 1.140 Hydrometer

During fermentation - 20.6 Brix ATC Refractometer

I tried the website you linked but couldn't get it to make sense.

Last hydrometer reading I did was 1.052.

Cheers,


M
 
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