Question About Fermentation Time By Confused Beginner

[jbhifi]

Hi All.

Just got into this home brewing caper. I purchased a coopers microbrew kit and have used the coopers lager that was supplied with it. I followed all the instructions very closely and everything seemed to be going well. What I am worried about is that my brew started foaming out of the air lock after the first day or 2 and since then has died off. I have taken hydrometer readings over the past two days and they seem to be stable now at 1008. It went in the fermenter on Saturday afternoon and it is now Wednesday evening so that is only 4 days. I has also slowed to a bubble out the air lock every 4 to 5 minutes. Should I bottle now or let it go a few more days? The sample I take in the hydrometer is still very cloudy aswell. Does this mean anything?

Any thoughts appeciated!

Cheers.

 

[mrpolly]

What temp did it ferment at ? If the hydro readings are stable over 3 days it will be right to bottle.

 

[glaab]

If it was 1008 yesterday thats 3 days, sounds fishy. What was OG?, What temp are you fermenting at?
Have you checked the hydrometer in clean water?, it should read 1000.
Cheers

 

[scrumpy]

Hi All.

Just got into this home brewing caper. I purchased a coopers microbrew kit and have used the coopers lager that was supplied with it. I followed all the instructions very closely and everything seemed to be going well. What I am worried about is that my brew started foaming out of the air lock after the first day or 2 and since then has died off. I have taken hydrometer readings over the past two days and they seem to be stable now at 1008. It went in the fermenter on Saturday afternoon and it is now Wednesday evening so that is only 4 days. I has also slowed to a bubble out the air lock every 4 to 5 minutes. Should I bottle now or let it go a few more days? The sample I take in the hydrometer is still very cloudy aswell. Does this mean anything?

Any thoughts appeciated!

Cheers.

mate what temp where you fermenting at?? high temps can cause violent and faster fermentations. take a third hydro reading and if its stable the beer has fermented out, it wont hurt to leave in in the fermenter for a few days (up to about 2 weeks) to clear up a little..

 

[jbhifi]

Hey guys.

Thanks for the quick response.

I have kept the brew between 22 degrees C and 26 degrees C. (According to the temperature sticker).

I just checked the hydrometer reading in clean water and it is pretty much right on 1000. OG was 1050.

 

[Screwtop]

Hi All.

Just got into this home brewing caper. I purchased a coopers microbrew kit and have used the coopers lager that was supplied with it. I followed all the instructions very closely and everything seemed to be going well. What I am worried about is that my brew started foaming out of the air lock after the first day or 2 and since then has died off. I have taken hydrometer readings over the past two days and they seem to be stable now at 1008. It went in the fermenter on Saturday afternoon and it is now Wednesday evening so that is only 4 days. I has also slowed to a bubble out the air lock every 4 to 5 minutes. Should I bottle now or let it go a few more days? The sample I take in the hydrometer is still very cloudy aswell. Does this mean anything?

Any thoughts appeciated!

Cheers.

After 3 similar consecutive daily gravity readings, fermentation is finished. If you have a fridge which you can fit the fermenter in, put it in there for 3 days to drop out the yeast before bottling, if not leave it for a week without opening the fermenter and risking introduction of wild yeasts or infections then bottle, much of the yeast should have dropped out by then. During that time search "bulk priming" to make priming (adding sugar) less of a hassle, that way you can bottle into any size or mixture of different sized bottles. Bubbling airlack is no indication that fermentation is continuing, that can simply be Co2 coming out of solution in the beer, rely on your Hydrometer test to determine if fermentation is finished.

The beer should be nice and sessionable at 1.008 a nice low gravity, I would say it's done, however such a rapid ferment would have produced some esters that may be a little on the fruity side, also such a fast fermentation can benefit from an additional week on the yeast for it to clean up any acetaldehyde (green apple) flavour/aroma produced as a result.

Cheers,

Screwy

 

[jbhifi]

After 3 similar consecutive daily gravity readings, fermentation is finished. If you have a fridge which you can fit the fermenter in, put it in there for 3 days to drop out the yeast before bottling, if not leave it for a week without opening the fermenter and risking introduction of wild yeasts or infections then bottle, much of the yeast should have dropped out by then. During that time search "bulk priming" to make priming (adding sugar) less of a hassle, that way you can bottle into any size or mixture of different sized bottles. Bubbling airlack is no indication that fermentation is continuing, that can simply be Co2 coming out of solution in the beer, rely on your Hydrometer test to determine if fermentation is finished.

The beer should be nice and sessionable at 1.008 a nice low gravity, I would say it's done, however such a rapid ferment would have produced some esters that may be a little on the fruity side, also such a fast fermentation can benefit from an additional week on the yeast for it to clean up any acetaldehyde (green apple) flavour/aroma produced as a result.

Cheers,

Screwy

Ok, I read in the beginners FAQ that the beer will be ok in the fermenter for up to another two weeks after fermentation has stopped. I have an old fridge I can power up and put the fermenter in. Won't the cold temperatures kill off the yeast for when I bottle the brew with the sugar tablets?

 

[damof]

Don't quote me on this (as I'm new to this caper as well) but the cold temperature does not "kill" the yeast just puts it to sleep. It'll wake up for secondary fermentation in the bottle when you leave it at room temperature for about 2 weeks.

 

[jbhifi]

Ok. Thanks damof. Now I know what secondary fermentation is :lol:

So here is my plan.

Tomorrow I will take one more SG reading. If it is the same as the last two days I'll toss the fermenter in my old fridge and bring it down to a nice chilly temperature for 3 days.

Then I'll bottle the brew and let it sit around at about 20 Deg. C for another two weeks.

Then I'll drink it all and try another kit. Maybe stout this time...............

 

[Scruffy]

If it was me, I'd leave it in the fermenter for another week @ 20-24C ish, then chill it for a week, then bottle - but then I've got some other bottles to drink... (I know all about how long a week is when you're waiting!)

BTW - what's it tasting like? Sour/Bitter/Fruity/Bananas, old wet nappies? Well?

 

[Screwtop]

Ok. Thanks damof. Now I know what secondary fermentation is :lol:

So here is my plan.

Tomorrow I will take one more SG reading. If it is the same as the last two days I'll toss the fermenter in my old fridge and bring it down to a nice chilly temperature for 3 days.

Then I'll bottle the brew and let it sit around at about 20 Deg. C for another two weeks.

Then I'll drink it all and try another kit. Maybe stout this time...............

Do the above and you should have a really good batch of beer, you have the necessary equipment to make good beer and are obviously willing to learn some good methods. Maybe a temp controller for that extra fridge and some good yeast in place of the kit yeast for the next batch, onward and upward with your brewing from here. Chilling the beer down following fermentation is always a good idea, as nasties prefer warmer temps and this lessens the chance of infection. Have a little sniff and taste of your next Hydro sample, if there is any hint of green apple then leave it on the yeast at room temp for a week to clean up, then chill for a few days to drop out the yeast. Don't worry there will still be plenty of yeast left in suspension for bottle conditioning, they're microscopic little buggers. Stout next, have a thought about maybe an American Pale Ale to make your eyes light up, you can use a kit and add some American hops, plenty of info on here on how.

Cheers,

Screwy

 

[Gavo]

your plan sounds good apart from where you said that you would drink it all then do another brew. What you really want to do is get another going as soon as you bottle this one in order to get your stocks up and let them condition for a bit longer.

Next time ignore the kit instructions on yeast temp, Ales should be fermented at around 18 degrees C while lagers at 10 - 14 degrees depending on the yeast.

Gavo.

 

[jbhifi]

If it was me, I'd leave it in the fermenter for another week @ 20-24C ish, then chill it for a week, then bottle - but then I've got some other bottles to drink... (I know all about how long a week is when you're waiting!)

BTW - what's it tasting like? Sour/Bitter/Fruity/Bananas, old wet nappies? Well?

It has quite a strong fruity smell to it yet it does smell like beer. I've never tasted wet nappies though so can't be sure about that one

Also, I live in the SE suburbs of Melbourne. Can anyone suggest a good brew shop to go to for some good advice / ingredients?

 

[Scruffy]

As Screwy says, you can try and tame any fruityness by leaving it at 20 or 22 (or 24!) for a short while after fermenting seems to have died down.

Yeast is a wonderful beast, and will continue to help your beer after fermentation - see diacytal for an idea about one role of yeast...

But, taste it! Don't be intimidated: here's some taste clues...

Apples - A fresh, delicate, pleasant, sweet apple character arises from the fermentation process in some English ales, famously Martston's. A more astringent, green apple taste can arise from insufficient maturation.

Cookielike - Typical character of pale malt. Suggests a fresh beer with good malt character.

Earthy - Typical character of traditional English hops. Positive characteristic in British ales.

Grapefruit - Typical character of American hops, especially the Cascade variety.

Grass, Hay - Can be a hop characteristic. Fresh, new-mown hay is typical in some classic European lagers. It arises from a compound called dimehtyl sulfide, caused by fermentation with traditional lager yeasts.

Madeira - Caused by oxidation. In very strong, bottle-conditioned beers that have been aged many years, this will be in a pleasant balance. In another type of beer, it is likely to be unpleasant.

Nuts - Typical malt characteristic in many types of beer, especially Northern English brown ales. Arises from crystal malt.

Roses - Can arise from hops. Also from yeast development during bottle-conditioning, especially in some Belgian beers.

Sour - Appropriate in Berliner Weisse, lambic, or Flemish brown or red specialities, but not in other styles of beer.

Toast - Malt characteristic in some dark ales, porters and stouts.

You'll know if it's off...!!

Well done on your first (?) brew!! Welcome to the dark/pale/wheat side!

 

[jbhifi]

Thanks for the quick responses everyone. I can see this will be a good forum for beginners like me.

Cheers

 

[raven19]

BTW - what's it tasting like? old wet nappies?

- I dont even want to know about that one...

Thanks for the quick responses everyone. I can see this will be a good forum for beginners like me.

Welcome aboard, super useful brewers and plenty of info on here, you will be hooked in no time!

 

[jbhifi]

Hey all. Checked my brew again. It has remained at 1008 for the last 3 days now. The taste has also improved fair bit but it still tastes quite watery. Is this normal? I'm going to let it sit for a while now. Hopefully I can keep infection out. One thing I did notice was that when I was taking a sample for SG the air lock would suck air back in because I was draining beer out. Is there a way around this aswell?

Cheers

 

[pokolbinguy]

Hey all. Checked my brew again. It has remained at 1008 for the last 3 days now. The taste has also improved fair bit but it still tastes quite watery. Is this normal? I'm going to let it sit for a while now. Hopefully I can keep infection out. One thing I did notice was that when I was taking a sample for SG the air lock would suck air back in because I was draining beer out. Is there a way around this aswell?
Cheers

1 - tasting watery? the mouth feel of the beer will change when cold and carbontated..and after maturing for awhile. If the ferment has finished get her in bottle/keg asap.
2. To prevent the air lock drawing air back in loosen the lid to allow the air through the lid.... you will need air to fill the gap you make when you remove beer.
3. I assume by your name you work for the company with the same name....does that mean you will sort all of us AHB'ers out with good home theater gear etc for cheap???

 

[Scruffy]

Well, I'm guessing if you followed the instructions side of the tin, it might well be a little lacking in body - there's stuff you can do to your next brew now you know how this one is turning out... (upping the malt might help, and steeping some grain, and/or adding hops - ask away next time...)
The thing with the airlock, there's a school of thought (not too far from Melbourne, reasonable rates - hey! he advertises on here!!) that says any contact with oxygen will ruin (rust) a brew. You also want to give the brew a reasonable chance with the yeast YOU pitched, rather than some airborne beast... Now, at the start you want to be a bit careful that everything is clean and there's the least chance of an infection creeping in... now you're nearing the end of this brew, there should be a little alcohol present, which might go a little way to protect the liquid, so the odd blip back from the air lock should be OK, you could loosen the lid (you're near doing this anyway), you could just cover the fermenter with cling wrap (clingfilm?) like some on here do... Timothy Taylors brewery actually ferment in open tanks... but there you go...
Don't forget the cold conditioning part!!

 

[jbhifi]

Ok. So I'm a little bit confused by the cold conditioning part. How cold should I take the brew down to. I mentioned earlier that I have an old fridge I can use. I take it that around 4 degrees is what you mean?