Production time - 6 1/2 days for Guinness - Min 2 weeks in FV?

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Most of my beers would be at FG in 3 or so days. However, I've gotten best results by leaving it in primary for two weeks (ramp temp to top end of yeast tolerance at day 7, then cold crash at day 10). Then keg at day 14 and leave at serving pressure in keg fridge for minimum one week before tapping. One decent exception I came up with when I needed beer ready for some mates that were coming around is my One Week Wheat. An American-style wheat beer which I ferment with US05 at 23c for 6 days, keg and set at 40 psi for 24 hours (I've never had much success with the Ross method). Came out surprisingly good and is now something I regularly brew, particularly if stocks are getting low. Almost everyone who's tried it rates it. Seems to have just enough character to interest craft drinkers but not so much as to 'offend' megaswillers.
 
I don't imagine that megabreweries transfer their beer to the massive conditioning tanks by chucking a huge silicone hose over the side and sucking on the end to start the syphoning process while standing around staring into the swirling beer in the receiving tank whilst eating their cheese and salad sandwiches for lunch.

Transfers would be smooth, totally enclosed and oxygen free.
 
Bribie G said:
I don't imagine that megabreweries transfer their beer to the massive conditioning tanks by chucking a huge silicone hose over the side and sucking on the end to start the syphoning process while standing around staring into the swirling beer in the receiving tank whilst eating their cheese and salad sandwiches for lunch.

Transfers would be smooth, totally enclosed and oxygen free.
with their pants off
 
jbaker9 said:
I expect that in commercial breweries this is for economical reasons.

In the large conical fermenters that they use they can drain trub and yeast cake from the bottom without requiring transfer. However, for primary ferment a larger fermenter is required. Once primary fermentation is finished they can transfer to a smaller fermenter.

Remember that a lot of what applies to a commercial brewery does not apply at home brew levels. Many of the old homebrew practices were transferred from commercial research. At their scale there are very real reasons for some of these practices.

My advise is:
- Keep it simple. Why add extra steps if they don't add value (as the evidence from some of the top homebrew authors suggests)
- Figure out what your objectives are. If you need to brew a lot of beer quickly this should be taken into consideration in your practices. If you will bottle then leave the fermenter empty for the next month maybe you can leave it a little longer. Maybe you have big fermenters for primary and smaller ones that exactly fit a batch and you need to free up the big fermenter. If you are doing it because a 20 year old brewing book says that it is absolutely essential maybe you should get some of the new books.
- If you want to do the research for your own interest, go for it.
- If it makes you feel warm and fuzzy, go for it.

If you have good processes and have the capability to CO2 flush your secondary you will get good beer either way.

As Denny Conn says, "don't worry, it's just beer".
I think we're roughly on the same page.

How To Brew and Mastering Homebrew are both great books, with some good sections for reference for brewers whose have moved past the basics. Both books are aimed at inexperienced brewers, so are quite pragmatic, and have a focus on simplification to get 70-80% there and increase a new brewer's chances of making half decent beer. I think we all know this is the right approach and 10's of thousands of brewers have likely benefited from John Palmer's book in particular.

One thing I've learned from working with a lot of Americans in the last few years is that they often miss the finer points, are over-confident and take their word as definitive. Look at American beer journalism and forums and it is plain to see. I saw it in some equipment failures where near enough was good enough: in particular, gas leaks where design and installation wasn't quite right; and lunching a $10mil turbine because they thought the oil was clean enough - rather than going through the fine detail and thinking about it a bit.

I like the pragmatism that John Palmer and Denny Conn show, and what comes through in Randy Mosher's book - it's important to have this when brewing, but a lot of brewers will strive to improve from each beer to the next and I think this is worthwhile too.

There is a spectrum from "who cares" right up to the most pedantic, pain-staking practices. This does not necessarily correlate with the quality or enjoyment of the beer, but there is certainly a good chunk where the correlation is there.

Randy acknowledges transfer to secondary should be done for certain beers. I think we're all in agreement here. Yet a number of German brewers and commercial brewers go to the effort of separating fermentation trub/scum from the beer in primary - through either skimming, dumping or transferring. This is extra effort employed for some reason and unlikely to be to do with turnover in the case of skimming and dumping.

I learned very quickly that just because a confident American says something does not make it definitive. Commercial breweries and detailed reference books practising something should make it worth considering at the very least, not being dismissed as warm and/or fuzzy.
 
When I was a winemaker I used to do a keg of stout as an addition for events at the winery. Great on hot days for blokes who didn't want to drink white wine. I admit I used extract (Muntons) and SO4 with a fair bit of POR hops. Fastest was brewed on Wednesday, kegged and gassed on Saturday, sold on Sunday. Admittedly I did give it a 20 micron filter and a 12 hour crash and then served it cold. It was a little chunky but I never had a complaint and always sold it all. :)
 
Nooo noo no no no no no no no no. yes.

People will drink average beer if it's all that's available. Or if they don't like it but they are told 'its cool'.
 
Funny this thread popped up again, I've got a pack of Wyeast Irish Ale in the fridge and house guests arriving in a couple of weeks.
Yesterday (brewed an English SB) I was checking out my dark malt section and thought "flippin eck, how much bloody black malt and roast barley does one man need in a lifetime???" and decided to whack out a quick dry stout or porter with ambient in the garage now sitting around the early 20s.

That and a good dose of oxygen, I guarantee there'll be a nice drop on tap within 10 days.

Will report.

(@Peregrine, I had to Google Kongwak, I assumed you were an expat in the Malay Peninsula or somewhere :lol: - welcome to the forum and keep rugged up)
 
Bribie G said:
Funny this thread popped up again, I've got a pack of Wyeast Irish Ale in the fridge and house guests arriving in a couple of weeks.
Yesterday (brewed an English SB) I was checking out my dark malt section and thought "flippin eck, how much bloody black malt and roast barley does one man need in a lifetime???" and decided to whack out a quick dry stout or porter with ambient in the garage now sitting around the early 20s.

That and a good dose of oxygen, I guarantee there'll be a nice drop on tap within 10 days.

Will report.

(@Peregrine, I had to Google Kongwak, I assumed you were an expat in the Malay Peninsula or somewhere :lol: - welcome to the forum and keep rugged up)
I'm in much the same situation - not enough beer on hand and not a lot of time before people are here. So I've just brewed your Guinness clone partly because of the time factor but also because everyone likes it (a lot) and I was wondering how soon I could reasonably wait before kegging it. No I won't be trying to set any records - it will make the two sabbath rule. Previous efforts worked very well in keg especially with a push of nitrogen. And thanks for your welcome. I've been lurking for a while and you've been a considerable inspiration - the TTL recipe, the Guinness one, general advice regarding British ales and the piggy back BIAB system amongst much else.

And @good4whatAlesU You're quite right. On a hot day at a winery a beer tent can become surprisingly popular. My general point is that while this is an extreme example of brewing speed, even slightly faster than Guinness apparently use, it worked well enough in that context. There is no way any other beer style could be treated like this.
 
Fame at last - thanks for your kind remarks. :)

If kegging, after primary fermentation I'd even look at hurrying it along for maybe just three days with some gelatine while the FV is sitting on a bench in the kegging position (so the gelatine doesn't swirl up) and then keg.

Down your way at the moment I'd expect the ambient temperature in your brewhouse would be ideal.

I just milled the grain bill for a 1.058 OG Porter and the Irish Ale 1084 is in the stir-inator right now.
 
Peregrine said:
And @good4whatAlesU You're quite right. On a hot day at a winery a beer tent can become surprisingly popular. My general point is that while this is an extreme example of brewing speed, even slightly faster than Guinness apparently use, it worked well enough in that context. There is no way any other beer style could be treated like this.
Sorry Peregrine, a bit tongue in cheek from me. Glad to meet another Stout brewer - all the best. Bribie is a great source of knowledge and well worth taking his advice. My beers on the other hand, even with good ageing can be a 'acquired taste'.. Lol. All the best.
 
Thank you. Another good input is plenty of oxygen.
For example my latest English Special Bitter, 1.045 - pitched Monday, Fermented bang on 20 degrees (Mangrove Jacks New World Strong Ale) nice and clear on the top today (Friday).
Will keg Monday and put on gas at 8 degrees.
Tap the following Monday if Allah spares me.
 
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