Proculture Yeast

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But it does have a number, WLP862 i think. and why are we all so secretive about teh 'individual's' Identity? is is clark kent? I was thinking it was uncle charlie's yeast.

Spot on there Maple its Charlie Papazian's "secret" blend both a Ale and Lager yeast

just my 2c worth
Franko
 
The identity was no secret on the podcast. It's just that I am old, senile and KRAFT.
KRAFT? Has got me stumped. Thanks!

BTW, does anyone know if Proculture muck around with that poxed "PC" marketing gimmick like their American major competitors do? I hope not, it doesn't look like it.
 
Yep, they are out of whack for us temperature wise. The problem I guess is that if you like a find a strain you like, when are you going to be able to get hold of it again. Personally, I think it's fun to have some different yeasts/blends to try out and them only being around for a bit probably works on me as a marketing tool. :lol:
 
Yep, they are out of whack for us temperature wise. The problem I guess is that if you like a find a strain you like, when are you going to be able to get hold of it again. Personally, I think it's fun to have some different yeasts/blends to try out and them only being around for a bit probably works on me as a marketing tool. :lol:
I am impressed with Proculture as any yeast that's listed is available year round even if you have to wait a week or so to have it cultured up.Their list of yeast is comprehensive to say the least, and its growing all the time. Im prepared to travel the beer world collecting yeast for them. :beerbang: Pick me.
GB
 
I'd be interested to know how the flavour profile compares to that of the wyeast strains (particularly the 1469 equivilant), and what differences, if any, there are.

(to clarify: I don't percieve differences as a bad thing; but rather as a possible positive. I mean, if it's exactly the same, I wouldn't really bother, cos I have slants of 1469, so wouldn't want to buy something thats 100% identical to what I've already got...if there were variences in the flavour profile, I'd definately be interested in comparison testing myself....apologies for zinging zoiderhh rambling... :unsure: )
 
I'd be interested to know how the flavour profile compares to that of the wyeast strains (particularly the 1469 equivilant), and what differences, if any, there are.

(to clarify: I don't percieve differences as a bad thing; but rather as a possible positive. I mean, if it's exactly the same, I wouldn't really bother, cos I have slants of 1469, so wouldn't want to buy something thats 100% identical to what I've already got...if there were variences in the flavour profile, I'd definately be interested in comparison testing myself....apologies for zinging zoiderhh rambling... :unsure: )
Any yeast is going to do different things depending what slant (pun ) you put on it. One yeast, so many beers.The pro- file (pun) is really only the starting personally of the strain, you need to bring out the evil brother or the sexy soft sister.I have done a few beers with 1469 now and they are all different, and that's what I intended. I am now working on manipulation of Pro-10 so Black Betty (brewery) is happy.GB ESB induced ramble over. :beerbang:
GB
 
:lol: ..
fair point(s). I tend to push in different directions as well, so sounds like I shall have to add another bow to my string edit: string to my bow (gawd, I'm not used to zoiderrh :lol: . Original error left in place with a strikethrough for it's humour value) and have a bit of a play....
 
Also yeast seem to often 'drift'... My first couple of 1469 had rocky popcorn heads and floating icebergs of yeast on top, even in secondary. Then on subsequent generations they lost that rocky head but produced a nice beer. On getting a slant of 1469 recently it brewed up just like a first generation with lumps of yeast bobbing on top. I'll be ordering Monday and keen to try the 'Wood Ale' strain.
 
The Pro -103 (aka 1469) are all first generation yeasts, the advantage with proculture is that they are raised on barley derived wort and hence dont have to adapt to the brewers wort, this equals a short lag phase. I typically get a FG of 1010 with this yeast and like the bitterness I achieve in my best bitters.
GB
 
Also yeast seem to often 'drift'... My first couple of 1469 had rocky popcorn heads and floating icebergs of yeast on top, even in secondary. Then on subsequent generations they lost that rocky head but produced a nice beer. On getting a slant of 1469 recently it brewed up just like a first generation with lumps of yeast bobbing on top. I'll be ordering Monday and keen to try the 'Wood Ale' strain.

Bribie -- what is your cropping method for further generations of repitching?
 
Bribie -- what is your cropping method for further generations of repitching?

When I used 1469 (and we are talking about back in February it's been that long) I used yeast cake but obviously being a wiser man now hopefully I'll harvest from the first krausen. I do the Yorkshire method of beating the yeast with a paddle morning and night for a few days to rouse and oxygenate and on removing the paddle, after the first couple of days it literally has waxy lumps of yeast clinging to it, being the ultimate top cropper.

At the end of primary the live yeast rises to the top and floats there like little lumps of popcorn as I posted earlier. I would imagine that this would be good to save as well but I read a post recently suggesting that cropping from the earlier part of fermentation would be better and more reliable, forgot who it was who posted.
 
I am definitely interested to try these yeasts. I'd even thought about studying microbio to do something similar, because there has been no equivalent local service til now. For the record, I think that the PC strain things are not marketing as much as culling their bread and butter yeasts to a manageable variety and releasing all others in some form of rotation. It makes business sense to minimise expired yeast being thrown out.
 
When I used 1469 (and we are talking about back in February it's been that long) I used yeast cake but obviously being a wiser man now hopefully I'll harvest from the first krausen. I do the Yorkshire method of beating the yeast with a paddle morning and night for a few days to rouse and oxygenate and on removing the paddle, after the first couple of days it literally has waxy lumps of yeast clinging to it, being the ultimate top cropper.

At the end of primary the live yeast rises to the top and floats there like little lumps of popcorn as I posted earlier. I would imagine that this would be good to save as well but I read a post recently suggesting that cropping from the earlier part of fermentation would be better and more reliable, forgot who it was who posted.

Top croppers can be pretty fickle beasts. I think the general rule for repitching is to use the yeast that rises to the top after halfway through the ferment. The stuff at the bottom once the ferment is over is the stuff that quits before the party's over, as is the foamier stuff that rises with the first krauesen.
 
I think the general rule for repitching is to use the yeast that rises to the top after halfway through the ferment. The stuff at the bottom once the ferment is over is the stuff that quits before the party's over, as is the foamier stuff that rises with the first krauesen.

Yep, I'd agree with that. I do my skims just prior to transfer to secondary fermentation, so about 4 (ish) sg points from estimated fg. with top croppers, I don't bother getting stuff off the bottom at all, anymore. I find I get much better repitches from the top skimmed yeast. Nice, healthy yeast (barring user error :lol: ).
 
Hey Nev (or anyone) - any info on his distillers yeasts? I think he's got 5 or so in his bank, but they are all described in the same vague way. I'm looking for a good (pref scottish) strain for a 9% malt based wash.
 
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