PID Controllers on Ebay (are they any good)

[Moad]

Cheers Kev, I think that is looking like the go. For the extra $ definitely worth having step mashing capability.

Does the auber PID have ramping function? I.e if I want to limit the ramping to a certain degree/minute.

My thinking is running a second element to get up to the boil separate to the PID controlled element. So a 1500w for mash and a 2400w for ramping/boil.

 

[Camo6]

Can't answer that question Moad but the operating instructions are free to download from their site here and here. I'm sure there's a way to do it but I just went with set temps and hold times. Qldkev will probably be able to answer your question.

I agree with Kev that they're a bit fiddly and take a little while to set up. Once programmed you only need to remember a couple of buttons though. When I was getting my head around mine I went with Cocko's PID setup I found in this thread (it's true, he can post something useful from time to time!). I've found these profiles fit the bill for all of my brewing needs so haven't made any changes yet. Like Kev I keep a printout handy on brewday.

 

[spog]

Cheers Kev, I think that is looking like the go. For the extra $ definitely worth having step mashing capability.

Does the auber PID have ramping function? I.e if I want to limit the ramping to a certain degree/minute.

My thinking is running a second element to get up to the boil separate to the PID controlled element. So a 1500w for mash and a 2400w for ramping/boil.

The 2nd element independently controlled is the go,I have 2 x Kmart kettle elements in my rig 1 x controlled by the PID,the other by a separate switch which brings the lot up to boil.
Until I sort the PID I bypassed it and used the switches to reach my temp points,but that means I had to monitor each step.

 

[Moad]

That's the plan, just concerned if I use the 2400 to get up to boil it will ramp up too quick. I guess if I was to use the 2400 only from mash out when flicking to boil it should be ok.

I'm going to try with a single 2400w first and hope the boil is sufficient and there is enough flow over the element to avoid scorching.

Anyway, way topic now sorry

 

[TheWiggman]

I rigged up a control box for a mate I've converted to AG (cubed a CPA for him, he fermented and now can't go back!) and gave it a run today. Chugger pump, 3600W element and HERMS from onlinebrewingsupplies, and cheap-arse REX C-1000 controller. He picked 2 up for $80 delivered from an Aussie seller, complete with sensor and SSR. I got him to upgrade to 40A SSRs.
Gave it a run today and at the HERMS outlet it increased 40°C in 15mins! Once it hit 65 it stayed there for 10 mins before overshooting 2°C with the factory settings. Needs a tune. The mash liquor lagged 15°C, meaning the heat power was impressive.



All in all this unit worked perfectly well. Time will tell how it lasts but functionally, yes it's good.
And the 3600W HERMS, holy smokes. Makes me want to upgrade.

 

[TSMill]

Does the auber PID have ramping function? I.e if I want to limit the ramping to a certain degree/minute.

My thinking is running a second element to get up to the boil separate to the PID controlled element. So a 1500w for mash and a 2400w for ramping/boil.

Yes you basically specify the temperature to step to and the time to take to get there.