Ok I'm Bored Let's Do A Speed Baib

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Whys that?
Is it the physical limitations of the bag or rig? Efficiency? Bad back?
It's rare that I'd ever use more than 6 to 6.5kg of grain in one hit, so I guess we're talking in the order of around 12kg to be hefted.
To much load for off the shelf bags?

Combination of factors. My pot was a bit on the small side to be adding large amounts of grain (6+ kg), and the grain does get a bit heavy. Main factor was the physical size limitation. So i got a big arse esky that i can fit more grain + water into. Guess i could have got a bigger pot and bigger bag, but i found a pretty cheap esky and i work for a large plumbing firm, so copper etc isnt a problem.

Unlike NickJD, my efficiency really suffered when i did bigger batches. Maybe he is a master brewer or just a hero or something.
 
Unlike NickJD, my efficiency really suffered when i did bigger batches. Maybe he is a master brewer or just a hero or something.

You just need to do a really good sparge, keep the pot filled as much as possible, and boil the crap out of it (more boil off = more room to top up with sparge water in = greater efficiency). I generally hit around 85% efficiency doing 20L batches in my 19L pot.
 
Only thing I'm thinking is would a large bag fit in the throat of my 50L keggle? They look pretty fat once that grain sucks up the water.
Perhaps I could drill eleventy billion holes in a plastic bucket, sit the bag inside, drop it inside the keggle and hoist it out by the handle?
Kind of a bag in a bucket in a keggle.
The brewing equivalent of a Babushka doll, if you will.
 
Only thing I'm thinking is would a large bag fit in the throat of my 50L keggle? They look pretty fat once that grain sucks up the water.
Perhaps I could drill eleventy billion holes in a plastic bucket, sit the bag inside, drop it inside the keggle and hoist it out by the handle?
Kind of a bag in a bucket in a keggle.
The brewing equivalent of a Babushka doll, if you will.

Let Bribie trailblaze the path for you :
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=58732

PS: I believe he's back to the bag now ;)
 
so when doing a dunk or other sparge with biab what is the advantage over 3v? i can see a clear advantage in full volume mashing with only one vessel to clean and simplicity but with a sparge these advantages seem to dissapear and what youre left with is a poor compromised version of 3v without the advantages. i have brewed both ways and have nothing against either but i am perplexed where the time saving in a biab is supposed to come from, i can actually do a batch sparged brew in less time because of the im pre heating sparge water during the mash making ramp times quicker by not heating a full volume wich takes longer to reach mashout and being able to start heating the first runnings up to boil while doing the batch sparge.
 
Show me how to do 3V brewing with upfront costs of under $30 and i'm all in.


not counting the burner and kettle or urn witch is needed either way, hlt will set you back 23 just a bunnings water barrel with a kettle element fitted, and an esky with a ball valve and piece of ss braid doable for $50 so not 30 bucks but still not far from the price of one slab of quality craft beer or a coopers brewing starter kit from big w.
 
PS: I believe he's back to the bag now ;)

Well I'm not surprised. Did you see how many people his idea made cross in that thread?

It seems there really is nothing new under the sun.


So I'm going to train a Shetland pony to to hoist my bag out by tapping it's buttocks with a mash paddle.
Take that Mr know-all Palmer..
 
not counting the burner and kettle or urn witch is needed either way, hlt will set you back 23 just a bunnings water barrel with a kettle element fitted, and an esky with a ball valve and piece of ss braid doable for $50 so not 30 bucks but still not far from the price of one slab of quality craft beer or a coopers brewing starter kit from big w.

But you excluded the kettle and burner, so your $73 is on top of the cost of doing biab.

Stovetop + 19L pot + sparge in a bucket that i already had = 20L batch with 85% efficiency and all for < $30

And whilst stovetop brewing isn't for everyone, the same principle applies when you scale up too. 3V cost will always be BIAB + $extra.


disclamer: nothing against 3V brewers, and i do see some advantages to 3V. This is just my reason for doing BIAB with a sparge.
 
Tonnes of blokes started 3v with crap they weren't using from the back of their shed. There you go - free beer.

Stupid argument had far too often.
 
"Stupid" was probably a bit harsh but it does get tiresome.

There's cheap rigs. There's expensive rigs. Neither will guarantee the quality of the beer either way. Do the best you can with what you've got. Enjoy the process.
 
But you excluded the kettle and burner, so your $73 is on top of the cost of doing biab.

Stovetop + 19L pot + sparge in a bucket that i already had = 20L batch with 85% efficiency and all for < $30

And whilst stovetop brewing isn't for everyone, the same principle applies when you scale up too. 3V cost will always be BIAB + $extra.


disclamer: nothing against 3V brewers, and i do see some advantages to 3V. This is just my reason for doing BIAB with a sparge.


no drama, i can see the advantage that way with youre limitations stove top is a great method and intro into ag brewing. i still cant see when going full volume the advantages of dicking around with sparging and dicking around to save on a small extra investment that will give clearer wort and less trub losses and the effiancy youre doing it for in less time.
 
In Bribie G tradition :)

9.10am clean 3 piece valve and attach drill to mill
9.20 grain milled

open hot tap into bucket in sink
attach valve
pour in 15L
turn on power to element
pour in 17L
wait.... stir ....

9.35 strike temp +-67

current 9.40 mash in mash temp +-65 wrap in blanket


go turn on coffee machine :)

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