Noob single vessel recirc Q's

[surly]

Hey all,

I have been gradually coming around to the idea of building myself a single vessel brewery.
After reading a few threads here and getting thoroughly overwhelmed, I have decided to keep things pretty simple to start with.

Here is a highly technical and detailed schematic of what I am thinking:

Single Vessel Concept

I currently have a Big W pot that I was thinking of using as the grain "pipe". Would probably cut slots in the bottom to allow drainage.
I also have a ~40L aluminium pot that might do as the main vessel.

My current questions are:

• Will these relative sized vessels work? Eg, grain bed depth etc.
• Is there an issue with allowing the wort to drain via gravity through the grain bed? This is as opposed the the braumeister system of pumping the wort up though the grains.
• Is there a plug and play type controller system available? I am completely out of my depth with electronics and like to leave the sparky stuff well alone. It would be nice to have the option of step mashing etc. I also assume there needs to be some sort of control of the element during boil so as to not get too vigorous and scorch the wort...

Anyway, I know this is all probably covered somewhere in many of the threads I have read, but my head is spinning and finding the right post in amongst all those pages is one hell of a task.

If any of you have any other thoughts, ideas or advice, I would be grateful to hear it.

Cheers,

Tim.

 

[MastersBrewery]

you will need to control a few things
temp

maltpipe/pot over flow

possibility of firing the element dry

 

[surly]

Hey Masters, thanks for the response.

In regards to maltpot overflow, I was thinking of something like this: http://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/index.php/blichmann-bling/product/910-new-all-stainless-steel-blichmann-auto-sparge

Alternately, use a hose clamp to control flow. This would require a bit of watching, but not a BIG deal. Mostly, I want to be able to control the temps without me having to jump and react (turns out I am not so good at this).

If I were to set the level right for the auto sparge, then this should help prevent the wort level in the main pot from dropping below the element, right?

 

[MastersBrewery]

yep the auto sparge is a pretty cool bit of kit, if you look a little further down that page you'll see the breweasy, basically the same setup you've drawn just with the pot raised.

Temp control you could go as simple as an STC1000, or a PID or matho's contoller simply a matter of how far you want to go with complexity and accuracy

MB

 

[xredwood]

The other issue you may have is trying to mount the auto sparge to the outer pot but having it outlet into the inner pot just making sure the float doesn't hit the side with various water heights in the malt pipe depending on your grain bill.

I would probably go more for a brew easy set up. Easier to build and none of those issues. To avoid electrical work, you could use an urn. Then all you need is a thermowell with STC1000 and you're away.

 

[TheWiggman]

If you're pumping into your top pot, grain will certainly make its way through it into the bottom pot early on. Unless you use a very fine filter like a grain bag.
This won't be good for your boil.

Plug and play is available using one of the standard temp controllers. If using them though don't use a thermowell in the grain bed, you'll need it on the recirc line. Otherwise you'll copy some pretty extreme hysteresis.

No control required on the boil - just turn it on. And don't mention scorching wort in these parts again. You'll open Pandora's box and suddenly everyone will be arguing about HERMS, not rehydrating yeast, advantages of chilling and how glad wrap infects brews.

 

[MastersBrewery]

If you're pumping into your top pot, grain will certainly make its way through it into the bottom pot early on. Unless you use a very fine filter like a grain bag.
This won't be good for your boil.

Plug and play is available using one of the standard temp controllers. If using them though don't use a thermowell in the grain bed, you'll need it on the recirc line. Otherwise you'll copy some pretty extreme hysteresis.

No control required on the boil - just turn it on. And don't mention scorching wort in these parts again. You'll open Pandora's box and suddenly everyone will be arguing about HERMS, not rehydrating yeast, advantages of chilling and how glad wrap infects brews.

yeah I think I forgot to mention the need to recirc the mash in it's own loop for 10minutes to set the grain bed

oh and you forgot to mention HSA I mean if your going to start a flame war.........

 

[surly]

Cheers for the info guys. I was unaware of the need to recirc the mash to set the bed.
Will need to do some more research and planning.

Will have a proper read through all the advice here after work. But will refrain from digressing into the perils of gladwrap.

 

[surly]

xredwood, I have done a bit of looking, but not been able to find exactly how the BrewEasy works.
Does the top pot drain continuously? also, how would this stop grains from making their way into the boiler? Is there a false bottom in the top pot and wort is pumped between the two? If the top pot is raised and wort drips/runs into the bottom one, then we really CAN raise the issue of HSA *dons flame suit*.

TheWigman, do the "standard temp controllers" allow for the urn to be plugged into them, then they plug into the wall or similar?


Based on the responses, I would think the addition of some voile to the bottom of the maltpot would solve the issue of grain getting through, the auto sparge to take care of level (this would be mounted in the top pot ideally, though might depend on the pot size..).
Some sort of simple, plug and play temp controller, ideally with ability to program step mashes. This should be all good, right?

 

[xredwood]

Yes that's the gist of the BrewEasy. You set the drain rate with a ball valve and the autosparge maintains the level in the pot. Yup, will need a false bottom but that will be the case for any design you use.

As for the temp controller, yes that's how it works. Either a prewired keg king will work or an STC 1000 which you can wire yourself or buy prewired from Cheeky Peak.

If you're worried about HSA just attach a silicon hose from the outlet of the top pipe that will reach the wort level in the urn.

 

[surly]

Thanks mate, that clears it up

 

[spog]

Surly,for a simple filter on the outlet try a stainless steel kitchen scourer,boil it first to get any shite out of it first ( a new one of course) and jamb it into the outlet as best you can.
Cheers...spog..