No chill hop additions with hop spider

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Elderfi

Well-Known Member
Joined
18/7/13
Messages
125
Reaction score
8
Hi,

I did an APA yesterday, 2nd all grain with (using the GUTEN 40L). I used a hop spider (the big mesh net thing that you can just dump your hops in at different times). I also used the no-chill method, decanting the boiling wort straight into a cube. Last brew (which was the same recipe) I didn't use the no-chill method, I used my immersion chiller.

There was a substantial 0 minute addition, which I put in the spider. Only after I thought about the limited contact the 0 minute hops will have with the wort when I decant. The brew before, the 0 minute hops had contact with the wort while the wort cooled.

Not sure how much this will affect the end result, but I am curious to know how I deal with the 0 minute hops when using the hop spider and the no-chill method?

Cheers!
 
I am curious to know how I deal with the 0 minute hops when using the hop spider and the no-chill method?
For no-chill I would move zero minute additions (and anything after) directly to the cube (cube hop) and leave them in there free-balling. You could afford to transfer a little hotter at around 85 degrees to ensure you still get some isomerisation of those hops but they will have a long contact time to extract flavour/aroma as well. You should also consider moving anything late boil about 15 minutes down the schedule (eg. a 20 min addition becomes a 5 min addition etc.,) and still use your hop spider for those additions.

Cube hopping works a treat, just try not to razz up the trub too much when you transfer from the cube to your fermenter.
 
Thanks for the advice. I had read about moving the hop additions out by 15 minutes, it's not clear to me that this is necessary with a hop spider as the hops are removed? Or is it the oil at higher temperatures that is the issue.

I guess I'll see how this brew goes. There were a few "I'm winging it here" moments...

Ever used the GUTEN? I had a bit of trouble getting the last of the wort out of the machine. I had a post boil volume of 20L but could only manage to get 16L into the cube! I had used some plastic tubing on the end of the tap on the machine to run it off into the cube. It's a pity I had to waste the last of it.

Thanks!
 
it's not clear to me that this is necessary with a hop spider as the hops are removed?
The vegetable matter is removed, however the acids that are extracted will remain in the wort and if you keep that wort at a high temp then they will continue to isomerize (bitter) until the wort cools to, typically, below 79 degrees. This is why most suggest moving the additions by 15-20 minutes, because at flameout it will take at least that long to get down towards 80 degrees - keeping in mind that the bittering effect/conversion scales significantly with the temp, so you'll extract more bitterness at 95 degrees then say 85 degrees - I'm no scientist so I'm horrible at explaining this sorry! Ha!

Ever used the GUTEN?
I do BIAB, I lose about 2L to my kettle so I always factor this into my final volume calculations. You'll also have losses to the fermenter (trub and dry hop absorption) so it's a good idea to factor that in too. I normally aim for about 23L to the fermenter just to be comfortable I can really fill a keg..
 
Thanks that all makes sense! Chances are this one will come out a little bitter! But I guess that is part of the learning. Next time round I will cube hop.
 
Thanks for the advice. I had read about moving the hop additions out by 15 minutes, it's not clear to me that this is necessary with a hop spider as the hops are removed? Or is it the oil at higher temperatures that is the issue.

I guess I'll see how this brew goes. There were a few "I'm winging it here" moments...

Ever used the GUTEN? I had a bit of trouble getting the last of the wort out of the machine. I had a post boil volume of 20L but could only manage to get 16L into the cube! I had used some plastic tubing on the end of the tap on the machine to run it off into the cube. It's a pity I had to waste the last of it.

Thanks!
I've got a 50l and lose a couple of litres with trub in the base of the kettle. Also worth noting that the litre markers aren't very accurate, and cubes tend to be bigger than 20l (mine are 22l), so it might take a few runs to get your volumes dialled in. Worth filling a cube up, then using this plus a 2-3 litres to fill the kettle, then recording the volume. This should be your target post boil volume for a full cube and a bit of kettle loss.
 
Hi,

I did an APA yesterday, 2nd all grain with (using the GUTEN 40L). I used a hop spider (the big mesh net thing that you can just dump your hops in at different times). I also used the no-chill method, decanting the boiling wort straight into a cube. Last brew (which was the same recipe) I didn't use the no-chill method, I used my immersion chiller.

There was a substantial 0 minute addition, which I put in the spider. Only after I thought about the limited contact the 0 minute hops will have with the wort when I decant. The brew before, the 0 minute hops had contact with the wort while the wort cooled.

Not sure how much this will affect the end result, but I am curious to know how I deal with the 0 minute hops when using the hop spider and the no-chill method?

Cheers!

I hot cube all the time now. Here's my method;
  • Start a 60min boil
  • Add first Hops at 40 mins ( count back 20 mins )
  • Adjust other additions to 20mins ( 30 min at 10 mins, 25min addition at 5 mins, I usually don't use any )
  • Add 20 or 15 min additions at flame out ( 0 mins - generally how I do it )
  • All other additions into the cube
  • Run tap water slowly through immersion chiller (to 85-86C )
  • fill cube
  • sit cube ( and yeast ) overnight in temp controlled fridge until it reaches fermenting temp.
  • Transfer to fermenter ( I generally use a modified keg with flexible dip tube and pressure ferment )
Works every time !
 
This beer actually turned out great! Not as hoppy as I would like, but all considered, a very enjoyable beer! I'm doing another brew now and will follow the shift out by 20 method!
 
I find no chilling dulls something about the hops, not quite sure what. However dry hopping brings this back. Even in recipes that don't call for it, a small dry dry hop, say 10g in 23l just livens the hops up a bit.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top