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Chookers

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Tried to do an 11Lt batch of Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale..

Ended up with 6.5L of S.G 1060.. What to do?? Suggestions??


I was surprised at how much space 2.2kg cracked Ale Malt takes up..


Does anyone know how much 1kg cracked grain equivalent to Litres of volume?? (if you know off the tops of your heads. Otherwise it'll have to wait till I get my stuff out again)
Reason I want to know is because Im hatching out an alternative method of doing my 11lt batches.


As for my 6.5Lt NS Summer Ale, I have added 2Lt filtered water.. S.G 1045, I have not yet added the yeast.. I am open to suggestion on how I can salvage this? (I had a taste it could do with more hops)
 
I max out my 50L Mash Tun with 17 - 18 kg of grain at 2.5L/kg if that helps - I would say with water added oyu are looking at just under 3L volume per kg of grain in the mash.

Edit - SG of 1045 is fine for an average strength alcohol beer, I would go ahead and ferment it.
 
Do you mean "How much volume does 1kg of crushed grain take up"?
Are you attempting to use measuring jugs instead of scales?
 
Do you mean "How much volume does 1kg of crushed grain take up"?
Are you attempting to use measuring jugs instead of scales?

I think the OP is asking about grain displacement, as I don't know the answer can't reply on it but am pretty sure thats what they mean....

As in, a kg of grain in a 10L pot will use up X amount of volume that water will no longer be able to be in...

Correct me if I am wrong Chookers?
 
I think the OP is asking about grain displacement, as I don't know the answer can't reply on it but am pretty sure thats what they mean....

As in, a kg of grain in a 10L pot will use up X amount of volume that water will no longer be able to be in...

Correct me if I am wrong Chookers?


If this is the case, this is a good quick calculator , without going into the ins and outs of learning brewing software

http://rackers.org/calcs.shtml/
 
I think the OP is asking about grain displacement, as I don't know the answer can't reply on it but am pretty sure thats what they mean....

As in, a kg of grain in a 10L pot will use up X amount of volume that water will no longer be able to be in...

Correct me if I am wrong Chookers?


Muddzy and Cocko your both right.
Though Im an interested in kg/Litre, Im not trying to use measuring jug vs scales (my juggs are'nt big enough :icon_chickcheers: heh).
I have a big 5Lt capacity food thermos, like the one pictured.. just wondering if I could mash in it.

cello_food_thermos.jpg
 
....As for my 6.5Lt NS Summer Ale, I have added 2Lt filtered water.. S.G 1045, I have not yet added the yeast.. I am open to suggestion on how I can salvage this? (I had a taste it could do with more hops)

Wait until its been fermented before deciding about the hop presence. At the moment it's subdued under all the malt...as the yeast start eating, youll notice the hops starting to shine.
 
Muddzy and Cocko your both right.
Though Im an interested in kg/Litre, Im not trying to use measuring jug vs scales (my juggs are'nt big enough :icon_chickcheers: heh).
I have a big 5Lt capacity food thermos, like the one pictured.. just wondering if I could mash in it.

Using that calculator i linked you, @ 2.8L of water / KG of grain you would be able to mash 1.4KG of grain in the 5L thermos.
So adding that to some good quality DME 1kg you could make around 14L of %5 beer.
 
Using that calculator i linked you, @ 2.8L of water / KG of grain you would be able to mash 1.4KG of grain in the 5L thermos.
So adding that to some good quality DME 1kg you could make around 14L of %5 beer.


That sounds awesome...
when you say DME you mean Dried Malt Extract right?? not Dark Malt Extract... just checking :icon_cheers:
 
I max out my 50L Mash Tun with 17 - 18 kg of grain at 2.5L/kg if that helps - I would say with water added oyu are looking at just under 3L volume per kg of grain in the mash.

Edit - SG of 1045 is fine for an average strength alcohol beer, I would go ahead and ferment it.


Thanks mate, 2.5L = 1 kg right..
Planning is the most time consuming part.
 
i did something similar but didnt dilute it put in the fermenter at 1060 did a 60min boil with ammarillo hops will this be to bitter?
 
That sounds awesome...
when you say DME you mean Dried Malt Extract right?? not Dark Malt Extract... just checking :icon_cheers:

Yeah i mean what ever Dry malt extract you want to use.

I can highly recommend the Briess extracts, they are made specifically for making beer and IMO from using them you can taste the difference in the
final product.

Grain grape a large selection.
 
Yeah i mean what ever Dry malt extract you want to use.

I can highly recommend the Briess extracts, they are made specifically for making beer and IMO from using them you can taste the difference in the
final product.

Grain grape a large selection.


Will do.
Is my 1kg of Coopers LDME anygood??
 
Newbie question on bulk priming (I have always use the carbo drops)

I have calculated that for 14L @ 2.2 CO2 I would need to add 81.2g Dextrose.. but how is this added. Do I stir it in to the fermenter just before bottling?

Also what CO2 should I be aiming for for an Australian Pale Ale??
 
I have calculated that for 14L @ 2.2 CO2 I would need to add 81.2g Dextrose.. but how is this added. Do I stir it in to the fermenter just before bottling?

Also what CO2 should I be aiming for for an Australian Pale Ale??

NO. Dont stir it in, youll get bottles full of yeast.

You will need to get another vessel that you can bottle from. You add some boiling water to the sugar you are going to use to bulk prime with, and dissolve it. I use a glass pyrex jug. Approx 250ml should be fine to dissolve your sugar. You then pour this into your bottling vessel. The using a siphon or some kind of hose, transfer the fermented beer into the bottling vessel. The whirlpooling action this creates is enough to mix the sugar solution with the beer.
Then once you've transferred, you're good to go ahead and bottle. The advantages of bulk priming is ultimate consistency of carbonation across the entire batch.
I also find it much quicker, even with an exta vessel to clean afterwards....

As for the level of carbonation, each and to their own, but id be aiming for around 2.5 volumes of CO2.
 
Boil it up in some water before adding. This is most important.

I have bulk primed into the primary with success. However after adding, stir gently, then let sit for 10-30 minutes. Most times this worked for me but I did get 2 batches where 1/2 were flat and half were carbed.

NB: I also used to rack during the latter parts of fermentation which reduced sediment.

Nowadays I no longer rack during fermentation and I only do it to bulk prime, which does ensure the sugar is thoroughly mixed, with no real need to wait. Still needs to be boiled in solution though.
 
Boil it up in some water before adding. This is most important.
(snip)
Still needs to be boiled in solution though.

How come?

Whats wrong with boiling some water in a kettle and using this to dissolve the sugar?
 
A solution of any type is fine. I mean as distinct from adding dry sugar straight in.

Some people boil for 10 minutes to ensure it's sanitary but the main point for me is dissolution. A sugar solution mixes into the beer better than dry, undissolved sugar.
 
Yep, cool mate :icon_cheers:
 
Excellent.. thanks for you replies

Im learning so much on this forum.. its very cool :beerbang:
 
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