New Kit: Coopers European Lager

[reg]

I am currently drinking a european lager from my keg.
I used the can
BE2 kit and
40 grams Hallertau hops using the 20/20 method( 20 grams boiled for 10 min then the other 20 soaked with flame out for 10min and added to wort)

I think that it was one of the best kits I have made and very simple.

 

[Bribie G]

According to the Coopers website the Euro lager is hinted as more of a Heineken / Pilsener style rather than a German? They say that it has extra Saaz added so I guess if you are adding extra hops on top of this, some more Saaz would be the way to go. Currently my LHBS still has a couple of cartons of the discontinued Coopers Bavarian Lager left so I'm taking the opportunity to brew about 4 of those, before it disappears forever, then I'll try the European Lager and do a comparo.

I already have a Bavarian 5 days in the fermenter. I'ts not too cold here at the moment and it's sitting on about 20 degrees in the garage. Added 500 LDME and 750 dex with Hallertau teabag. Opinion on the forum seems to be that the Euro lacks body and aroma so I'll probably go a kg of LDME, some maltodextrin and extra Saaz and what the heck 500 dex for extra ABV . Probably beginning of August.

 

[Mattywalnuts]

I brewed one of The european larger kits a couple of months ago (after being devo that i couldn't get a hold of the bavarian tins anymore), around june, after a long hiatus from brewing, finally tasting it about 2 weeks ago, and it wasn't half bad. However i was hoping for a 'becks' style of beer, but it was lacking in the hops aroma and taste.

All in all, its not a bad drop, and it can easily be improved upon. Its starting to get too warm where i am at the moment to brew it again this year, but next winter i'll be definitely brewing it, in some variation.

 

[buttersd70]

I tried this for the first time about a week ago. I got a couple of bottles of a friend of a friend. It was, without doubt, the most disgusting beer I've ever had in my life (even including VB) :icon_vomit: . I asked my mate, "was this brewed at lager temps?", to which he laughed, and said "I doubt it!" :lol: I'm thinking of re-labeling it "Cider"

So I'm yet to taste this kit brewed correctly.

 

[Pton]

Hi.

3 days ago I brew my first beer. I've bought Coopers European Lager. For fermentation I used enclosed yeast. I'm wondering what is the best temperature for brewing with enclosed yeast? I also don't know when the fermentation will ended, do I have to transfuse beer into a second fermentator for a few days or just start with bottling after ended fermentation?

 

[Mcstretch]

Hi all,

I brewed up one of these about 6 weeks ago now, I didn't add anything extra just followed instructions.

I carbed it up with the lollie drops and then let it sit for 2 weeks.

I found that between 2 and 4 weeks in the bottle there was a real sweetness to the flavour that MOH really enjoyed. however after 4 weeks the drop began to mature into beer I have a few bottles I'm saving to really let age, but next time I do this I will let it sit for a few months

cheers,

 

[Pton]

Mcstretch, did you transfused beer from first fermenter to another, or you just start with bottling, after ended fermentation? What was the temperature you brew?

 

[glaab]

Hi Pton,

I quizzed Coopers about their lager yeast and this was their reply;
*I asked if I could use their supplied Lager yeast at 12C, this didn't really answer that though,

Hello Chris,



The sachet supplied contains a blend of ale and lager yeast so you will achieve clean, crisp lager characteristics if you pitch at 22C and set your thermostat for 16C. The ale yeast will still chug along at that temperature.



Cheers,





Frank Akers

Home Brew Advisor

Coopers Brewery

Adelaide, SA



Toll free 1300 654 455

 

[Bribie G]

Well well, what a good find, my little grasshopper :icon_cheers:

For the last year since the Euro Lager came on the market the general wisdom on the forum has been "The Euro lager comes with a genuine lager yeast etc etc etc..." and it looks like Coopers have rather decided to provide a very wide spectrum blend of yeast to take account of the fact that people will be brewing this stuff in their garage from Launceston to Groote Eylandt and trying to make it as 'bullet proof' as possible.

Whatever, it's certainly a good idea to brew it at, say 17 or 18 degrees if you can, and you should get a fair trade off between clean fermentation and fairly quick fermentation, IMHO.

 

[AussieJosh]

I am a member of the cooppers club. as far as i know coopers european lageger is and lager yeast. i will message Paul the coopers hombrew guy on the forums and find out whats the deal regarding glaabs post

 

[Pton]

Thanks. So 18'C is good temperature for brewing, but I still dont know if you transfuse beer from one fermenter to another, or you just start with bottling when fermentation in first fermenter is at the end. And I have one more question... what is the price of one can of european lager ( 1,7Kg ) in your country?

 

[AussieJosh]

I would not brew coopers european lager any higher then 18. I spoke to Paul from coopers he said its a lager yeast. When i brewd mine it went between 13 and 16c.
from memory a can is about $12 or $13 Australian dollers.
there is no need to transfer the beer to a second fermenter.

 

[Pton]

Thanks AussieJosh for your answers!

A can of Coopers european lager cost 15 EUR in our country, that is 26 Australian dollers. Yes... quite expensive, but hey... I have no choice. If I want to brew, I want to buy it at this price. By the way... I'm from Slovenia.
I'm also wondering, how much time must beer waits in fermenter after ended fermentation. I heard, I shouldn't start with bottling right after fermentation.

 

[felten]

Thanks AussieJosh for your answers!

A can of Coopers european lager cost 15 EUR in our country, that is 26 Australian dollers. Yes... quite expensive, but hey... I have no choice. If I want to brew, I want to buy it at this price. By the way... I'm from Slovenia.
I'm also wondering, how much time must beer waits in fermenter after ended fermentation. I heard, I shouldn't start with bottling right after fermentation.

I usually leave mine for 2 weeks in the primary, that gives the yeast time to condition the beer, and shouldn't result in any off flavours.

 

[AussieJosh]

Pton

Beers with Lager yeast tend to take longer to ferment. I would leave it for about 10 days before taking your first hydrometer reading. I leave mine untill i get three days in a row that have three of the same hydrometer readings. Then it will be safe to bottle in glass. just make sure you dont put to much sugar in the bottles. Or you can use Carbo drops.

 

[Pton]

Hi!

After six days fermentation has stoped. Is it ok? Should I open fermenter and mix beer with oxigen? Is this the reason, fermentation had stoped, because I haven't add oxigen since fermentation started?

 

[AussieJosh]

Pton
how do you know it has stoped? do you have two hydrometer readings the same that were taken 24hrs apart??? if yes..........take the air lock out and just use the tap to fill your bottles.

 

[Pton]

I noticed, fermentation has slow down ofter 6 says. At 6th day of fermentation, density was 1012. It is 13th day of fermentation now. Density of bear is 1008. What is the density when fermnentation stops? Is it Ok, fermentation take 13 days and still no end?

 

[Wisey]

1.008? I would start bottling. I got a brew that doesnt want to move off 1.018

 

[ah_glenno]

Hi!

After six days fermentation has stoped. Is it ok? Should I open fermenter and mix beer with oxigen? Is this the reason, fermentation had stoped, because I haven't add oxigen since fermentation started?

Once fermentation has started you dont want any more air getting in there, so no dont open the lid